Travel

4-9-2011 Alkumal Beach Resort - Mexico People - food

2011-04-10T09:03:00.000-07:00

Home again on Saturday.

We had such a great relaxing time.

The food was inviting as you can see by the photos below. Desserts my favorite.

We met lots of interesting people.

Tom and Jenny from Calgary, Alberta, Canada were both electrical engineers. She worked in the tar sands where they extract oil from the sands. To make one gallon of oil it takes six gallons of water. Quite a controversial deal. She flies 10 days into a remote area and has 4 days off. Temperatures drop to minus 40 degrees Celsius in the winter. She works in an administrative building with not much venturing out to smell the roses.

Shelly, from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada is a bundle of energy. She is probably in her mid-thirties if that and has a love for the senior population. She expressed a genuine interest in how the "aged" maintain the excitement in life. She must have hit the jackpot when she met Stan and I with our dancing and prancing to polkas along with playing accordion and saxophone at 5 am in the morning. We must have seemed strange. Shelley works for the city and brings communities together with social projects like engaging all ages to create gardens and benches along the walkways. She has a knack for talking with people. Her husband has a PHD in Environmental engineering related to clean water. Her little kids were on their way to success. At age 10, her daughter can already swim 179 laps and her son is a champ at hockey. Both children are fluent in French, Canada's second language. Hockey seems to be the well-followed pastime requirement for all residents of Canada - eh?

At water aerobics Stan met Anna from British Columbia, Canada. Seems she is quite the quilter - all by hand. I talked to her later in the week. She has a ten foot spot in her living room with a quilt rolled on the stretchers where she can sit down and hand quilt the layers together. She, like myself, has giving a lot of them away to friends and relatives. She also works with the Red Cross. They give her bags of six inch square fabric that she hand sews into squares and then quilts for homeless type folks that the Red Cross helps. She is not much for triangles or other pointy patterns. It would be interesting to see what she does with her fabrics. I gave her my email address and blog, however she said she doesn't have a computer. That's probably why she has so much time to sew by hand.

She also cans food: fish, tomatoes and the like. Stan said she either was recovering from cancer or still had it. I didn't talk to her about that, but noticed she had a fresh ten inch tattoo of a tinker bell type fairy on her calf. Hhmm. Quilting and tattoos; that's an interesting combination. I suppose if you're going through a bout of cancer you can pretty much do what you want. If you want a tattoo, oh well then - get one.

There were people on the same schedule as we were that always seemed to gravitate to the same tables for meals. We didn't really talk with them, but noticed them as they probably did us. One family with three little kids were known as the hairless family as the father didn't have a scrap of hair on his arms or legs, only his head.

Another we called the Blue Bloods after the weekly cop show that always eats together on a big long table. These vacation Blue Bloods filled a table of 10 each day to enjoy each others company on a family get together.

The gay guys, bald with short cropped hair, tan buff bodies and a few tattoos were every present, but ever private keeping to themselves. We guessed that they must have been from Italy or Brazil.

One gal got up and sang New York, New York at karaoke night. She was quite the extrovert and show-person. On Miss / Mrs Alkumal night she gargled away singing La cucaracha (sp) song. Her husband must like it. He was always smiling.

As we were winding up our week the long necks showed up. Both husband and wife have extremely long necks - about three or four inches longer than most folks. They were pretty tall and skinny, which added to their head turning look. Their little boy looked normal so far.

All the servers were very polite and cheerful. They spoke Spanish and pocito English and and we tried to follow the conversation. We spoke pocito Spanish. A smile here and there helped.

It was a beautiful relaxing vacation. We would go back.

2011-04-10T06:04:00.000-07:00

4-8-2011 Akumal Mexico – Two Turtle Day

It was a “two-turtle” day at the bay in Akumal, Mexico. Friday was our last day at the resort. I really wanted to see the turtles toward the north end of the beach that I had heard so many people talking about.

After breakfast we hauled our bag full of snorkeling gear and towels down to where the resort sun-beds (chaise lounge chairs) end and the boats are moored in the cove. This was way before the snorkelers, in groups of ten or more start their march out to sea to view the wonders below. Snorkelers must be dropped off in van-loads from other resorts to learn snorkeling. There are always new groups out there learning. We stood beside one group to overhear how to do it the right way. We had always bobbed in the moving surf about knee high to put on our fins. They let the water slash on their fins and feet at the water’s edge facing away from the ocean. You can get into your fins a lot easier that way.

You can always tell were the snorkeling tubes congregate in the ocean, that there must be something below. We enjoyed the cool breeze and sounds of the ocean as we had the whole day to get busy looking for turtles.

I’m not a good swimmer and sometimes panic-up when I can’t touch the bottom. Swimming in the surf with the tides against you is another whole dimension from the glass-still surface of the lagoon a few days ago. At least today I didn’t need to hold Stan’s hand. I plan out the process in my head of what will be comfortable. I look to the buoy by the boats and the pod of snorkelers about 20 feet further in the distance. They are out too far but the buoy might be within a safe swimming distance, safe in my mind that is. Stan spits in my mask for me as spitting seems to be a guy thing. The spit keeps the mask from fogging up. I rinse the mask a little in the clear surf water and put it on. I start walking with my back to the surf while lifting my fins up and down as they suction to the moving sands. I lay back into the water and take a few stokes against the splash of the surf. I stand back up in waist high water and head toward Stan out into the bay.

Breathing in and out through the snorkel, everything seems ok so far. I can do twenty or so strokes and kicks. I try to breathe more shallowly so as not to panic and wear myself out. I look down at the ocean floor at the swaying thick grasses. A few small fish leisurely swim through the water. We are looking for the fine grasses that the turtles eat.

I bob up to the surface to check my location and also adjust my mask which is filling with water. So far so good. We head to the buoy another twenty or so stokes. More water fills in my mask. I come up to the surface and swallow some of the salty water leading a little panic. I hang on to the buoy for a while trying to regain my confidence and finish with the coughing fit.

Stan patiently waits for me to decide if we should go in or keep on. I know I can always float back in to the shoreline on my back if I need to and I was pretty comfortable bobbing in the ten foot deep water hanging onto the buoy’s rope out here. I just know there are turtles close by and want to see them.

The pod of snorkelers are still about twenty or more feet in the distance.

We decide to swim parallel to the beach. Slicing through the water with the surf pushing against you requires added energy. I see him. I bob up to call to Stan and point to the spot. We both float around the surface watching the turtle. He is beautiful about three feet long. His shell is covered with a thin layer of moss with his flippers dark green from age. He gently nibbles at the fine grasses on the ocean floor. When it is time for a breath he flaps his flippers a few times and floats to the surface with such grace and ease. That was worth the trip.
We swim back to shore and rest in the shade enjoying the warm ocean breeze. We meander over to the swing-bar and talk to some people while we wait for it to open. The bar has a name, which I forgot. We call it the swing-bar because there are swings hanging from the rafters. You can sit on them and swing back and forth making patterns in the sand with your feet.

I watch a couple of workers shoveling and racking the sand around so all surfaces are pretty much evenly covered. Can you imagine what it would be like to be in charge of sand dispersion? Every day the sand flows and blows around. Every day you and your buddy organize and smooth it. I guess we all do that to a certain extent, just with different material. Work on stuff and move it around. Next day more stuff. Work some more. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

Time to go back out and look for turtles. Stan fixes my mask so it is tighter and maybe less prone to fill with water. I’m still pretty tired from our jaunt before so we decide for one more turtle try about 20 or so strokes out from the shoulder deep water. We swim past the thick grasses toward a patch of the thin grasses. There she is, smaller at about eighteen inches long. She must have been much younger than her friend by the buoy as her shell and flippers were a rich rust color with white under coat. She was nibbling at the grasses and then surfacing for a breath. Not sure if they were he’s and she’s, it just seemed they were.

What a delight. Made my two turtle day complete.

4-7-2011 Akumal Yal Ku Lagoon

2011-04-08T06:42:00.000-07:00

4-7-2011 Akumal Yal Ku Lagoon

I paused on the moss covered steps to slip into my fins as I looked into the clear blue water below. Small stripped fish swam in random patterns beckoning me to come in. I put on my mask and set the snorkel then slipped into the chilled water of the Yal Ku lagoon. Viewing the rock formations below brought dimension to the beauty of the area. Colorful fish swam around the crevices of the large boulders. The water was so still in this cove it made it easy to float on the surface with a few kicks of the flippers to propel around the edge where the fish swam.
Other snorkelers dotted the surface of the quiet water along with schools of 10 or more learners wearing bright orange or yellow safety vests in classes. They talked and kicked up the water as they churned through the area.

There are rustic benches of planks of wood to sit on through-out the park. Sign remind you not to wear sunscreen unless it is environmentally biodegradable. Ours probably isn’t degradable so we wore a t-shirt. It is easy to get sunburned with the intense sun reflected off the water.

As I rest on the bench, I notice a family in the distance chatting up a storm by calling out orders to their little girl to not climb on the rocks, come over here or look over there. The dad was wearing sunglasses and carrying his snorkel and mask in his hand. How can that really work? The mom was in a blue life vest, floating high around her head, with her mask and snorkel propped up on her forehead going through the water vertically. She must have been toe tipping through the water on her sandals. What a different experience for them. The really should have taken some lessons with the others to better understand the concept of snorkeling. If they bothered to rent half of the equipment, it wouldn’t have taken much to get the whole set.

Leslie and Kevin from Bailey, Colorado, floated up to us and said hello. I hardly could recognize them in face masks and snorkeling gear from this morning when we had chatted at breakfast. They were celebrating their 32nd anniversary and loved to snorkel and watch the world below the surface of the water. Leslie knew just where to find the big turtles in the thin grasses 30 or so feet from the edge of the ocean. Today they decided to check out the lagoon.

In the morning we walked from the resort north toward along the beach to one area of Akumal where there are small shops and a few restaurants. We heard the cab ride to the Yal Ku lagoon would be $6. It was $8, but worth it on a warm day. We road through bumpy residential roads, that were in need of repair, viewing large beach homes along the way. Yal Ku is a charming area that accesses the lagoon. We paid the $9 / person entrance fee and walked through gardens of bronze sculptures and thick foliage into paradise. We had been there before with John and Rachel. It is still delightful. On the way back Leslie and Kevin gave us a ride on the back of a golf cart they had rented for the morning.

Back at the resort a hamburger or for me cheese burger, no meat hit the spot. Juicy watermelon and a cup of chocolate ice cream topped it off.

4-6-2011 Akamal Beach Resort '- Mexico

2011-04-07T06:55:00.000-07:00

4-6-2011 Wednesday Akumal Beach Resort – Mexico

Dancing in the sand on the beach to a live band is harder than you’d think. Your feet sink in and your knees ache as you accidentally step in the uneven surface of the sand.

The music is great. A three piece band: keyboard that mimics many instruments, drummer and vocalist might seem a little corny, but not when they all know how to play and sing all types of music really well with lots of energy it lifts your spirits.

We heard this band our first night last Saturday when they played at the bar in subdued lighting. Tonight we heard them in front of the beach bar at the far end of the resort play in the dark with dancing on a dance floor at the edge of the ocean. During the day this place is known as the regular ole’ beach filled with sand castles and the ebbs and flows of beach sand.
I was surprised the band would bring out their instruments and equipment to these sandy conditions, but they did. I tried to video a Latin song, but it was just too dark. We could barely see silhouettes of the dancers in the darkness.

This is the same beach we went snorkeling today. My equipment came from a dive shop in Australia. Stan’s came from a small shop on Wadsworth in Lakewood where he could order a prescription insert for the facemask so he could see something in the depths below. We have hauled them all over the world. It still works. It was so interesting seeing the fish swimming and patches of coral shaped like fans. Some folks we met said they saw a few large turtles in the grasses. We’ll need to look closer tomorrow.

Stan was so excited this morning to join the water aerobics again today. It is fun and sure doesn’t impact your body like regular aerobics does. We’ll need to try that back home. Vacation willingness is so much easier than breaking everyday routines.

We met Günter from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada early in the morning at the pool. He does laps. Lots of them. He was on number 64. We had a little chat about getting older and keeping the body working. He had a heart attack three years ago at age 57 when he was working 12 hour days driving a truck for the coal industry - too much work and stress. He mentioned that overeating and drinking brought him to well over 300 pounds when this happened. He had really trimmed down since this eye opening experience when he took charge of his own destiny with daily exercise and weight lifting for strength training. We commiserated on the aging process and how youthful activities sneak up on you. Then one day you’re practically, if not literally, taken out as if by surprise.

Lots of people we met here are from Canada. They seem to have a stronger economy than the USA. Out of work people just don’t take vacations when they are trying to put food on the table.
One Canadian woman, originally from Uruguay, has been to this same resort about 22 times. She loves it here as so do many others. The beaches are nice and long, snorkeling close by, and food is really pretty good. They serve four or five meats every night, not that I’m a meat eater, but most are. Stan had the first slice of a big turkey breast one night and beef kabob another, along with a chunk of pork in sesame sauce. There are lots families with well behaved children enjoying each day.

4-5-2011 Akumal Beach Resort Mexico

2011-04-06T07:05:00.000-07:00

After our visit to the Tulum ruins we stopped at the small tourist village. I found a Subway nestled between stalls selling jewelry, tote bags, ceramics and other such souvenirs. I bought an ice cold Pepsi light for $1.70. I really hit the spot on just a humid day. I would have paid five bucks.

We watched about 6 guys dressed in full feathery costumes hustle the tourists for photos. They looked great with arms full of rows of feathers that looked like eagle wings when he spread them wide. Faces and bodies were painted as is ready to go to war. When they saw me pull out my camera from my perch in front of Subway, they made it clear photos cost money. The rebellion part of me just wouldn’t bit and it all seemed so contrived and Christmas card like. I did a little shopping instead.

We walked back to the highway passing by men selling cab rides and collectiveo (bus) ride and instead opted for the fun of just waiting by the side of the road. Soon lights flashed as the collectiveo van pulled over. Is was packed. I asked. He said three. We got on. Move stops and more people crowded on. The driver dutifully stopped at Akumal (no announcement of course- you just pay attention). We paid our 6 bucks and were relieved to be back at the hotel.
Food here is amazing. Totally inclusive with the price. All you can eat does require restraints on your part I you won’t be able to fit into the airline seats for the ride home. This is buffet type service. You learn quickly what is good and what is not so good.

Tomatoes, lettuce, guacamole if you mixed it with the chopped onion/tomato/chile salsa and squeeze some lime juice, tortilla chips, oatmeal, most things made on the grill (like omlets, grilled fish cut fresh from a 3 foot long specimen caught just today, fresh tortillas lightly browned and so forth. The cantaloupe, watermelon and honeydew are the best flavored if you pick carefully.

Desserts – some great some not so great. The beautiful cakes are actually soaked with some kind of liquid – maybe sugar water, so not to my liking. Stan gobbles them up. Cheesecake, flan and rice pudding are my favoriates. Although the coconut macaroons were great too.
Stan likes a hamburger from the snack bar by the beach, which is open all afternoon. I usually mix up the guacamole salsa combination with chips with some cantaloupe.

Onions are so mild and good you can eat them like apples. Any pasta looks disgusting. Sauce is on the side so pasta sits in large pans drying out. There is pizza, but really don’t we eat enough of that at home where it is actual fresh and delicious.

We have finally changed our at home rigorous awake schedule to a more relaxing vacation schedule. We ate breakfast first instead of swimming laps first to the best surprise. Our laps overlapped into the water exercise class so we joined them. It was the most fun and seemed like we were at camp again like when we were kids. We laughed and jiggled in the water. IAerobics I can do that make my knees work better.

It was Mexican food night at the restaurant. They went all out to provide interesting local foods. Tamales wrapped in husks along with chicken wrapped and baked in banana leaves. Burritos prepared on the grill spread with pureed black beans, rice, cheese and pulled pork browned to a slightly crunchy texture. They were delicious. Every Tuesday Stan and I go out to for Mexican food. We are right on schedule.

4-4-2011 Tulum Mexico

2011-04-05T07:58:00.001-07:00

4-4-2011 Tulum Mexico

After breakfast and a swim we decided to venture to Tulum, a near-by village with ancient Mayan ruins a top limestone cliffs over-looking azure-blue Caribbean ocean. Five years ago we took a day trip to Chichen Itza to walk up to the pyramids and look up close at the stone carvings built around 750AC.

Tulum is about 24 kilometers (~12 or so miles) south from Akumal where we are staying. We asked our Apple vacation representative Miguel, who casually has his office in the lobby.
Miguel is an interesting guy with those striking characteristics of the Mayan influence: rich chocolate brown skin, short in stature, high cheek bones, with a round face with equally bright round eyes and a smile full of promise and excitement. He was telling me about his little 4 year old boy. Parents are so proud of their children and have proven convictions that their child is the smartest and brightest. Miguel is no different. He is teaching his son Spanish, English and French in pretty easy fashion. He shyly let me know he was happy and surprised when his son could count in all languages.

When we talked to Miguel about things to do in the area, we mentioned Tulum. There is really not an excursion for that as it is a National Park and only a few miles down the street. You just catch a bus on the highway and there you are. The buses are not on a scheduled time and prices vary from $3 to $5 per person. Simple task for him, he lives here and speaks the language. I’m more than a little concerned about the drug traffic and associated shootings we hear about on TV. Miguel offered no assurances except to say the drug lords aren’t targeting this area as they are busy at the border. As vacationers start demanding drugs in the future, surely smart businessman will fill the demand.

Armed with vague information we lathered up with sun screen, filled our water bottle and grabbed a couple bananas left from breakfast in a bag and off we ventured to the busy highway on a very humid warm day. The sea breeze helped keep us cooled off. The traffic on the 4 lane highway is brisk. We scurried across to wait for the bus. After all this is Mexico and I wasn’t sure if I would be waiting for an old rickety bus, filled with people, chickens and goats.

It was hot and perspiration comes easily. Not a minute after we started waiting we saw a van pulling over with a label saying Collectivo on the front and side of the vehicle. We figured this must be the “bus” and bravely jumped on. I asked the driver, “how much”. He replied, “$2.” I gave him four for both of us and that was it. The van was clean, air conditioned (thank God), with local people and tourists riding from one place to another on a busy freeway. A couple of guys hopped out at resorts with their execution notebooks in hand. Others ran across the street to jump on. The driver had a little wooden box to the right of his steering wheel stacked with coins. The bus stayed full with about 14 passengers. Our turn came to jump out at Tulum. Phew we made it.!.

We crossed the busy highway to the village of Tulum following people who looked like they knew where they were going. The Mexican hawkers started their barrage of needs. One guy with plastic spoons filled with ice cream beckoned you to take one and come in a buy another. I don’t think so. Others asked if we wanted cab ride down to the ruins. Others beckon us to buy a tour ride on trolley pulled by a makeshift tractor. It did look inviting, but we kept walking and sweating. The path was dirt and mostly shaded.

We stopped briefly at the sound of drums to check out the activity in the little village to watch guys in red and white costumes perched on top a 100-foot spinning steel pole. As the drumming continued, four of them stretched their arms out and began their spinning decent upside down on ropes rotating leisurely like a maypole to the beat of the drum by the guy left perched on top. Finally they reached the ground. We found out later that is was such a feat that they had charged the other tourists $25 to see this and we had viewed it for free from the sidelines. I feel I was back stage peaking through the curtains at an Elton John concert and didn’t even know it.

Onto the ruins. We heard from some friendly people along the path coming from the ruins that is was about 200 yards down the way. Well I can probably walk a couple lengths of a football field even in hot humid backing sun. The path was flat, dusty and shaded. We arrived at the entrance and paid the fee - $51 ($5 dollars US). The park is well organized with paths that circled the area. The ruins were roped off to keep things in tack. They were smaller buildings with no carvings then Chichen Itza where you could walk up and touch the stones.

The view at the cliffs of blue-green ocean took your breath away in contrast to the dark stones from the ruins. I gingerly walked up uneven rocks of make shift steps on slippery sandals wondering if crawling up would be more appropriate. There just wasn’t much to hang onto except Stan’s hand.

We sat down under some trees to eat our bananas. A couple of women were resting and eating their sandwiches. Yikes. Up came a two-foot long iguana with spikes running the length of his back. He jumped across the ladies legs toward her sandwich. Every jumped up. The iguana blended into the rocks so well you had to really look closely to see him. When we looked, we noticed we had been sitting by his whole family of four or five smaller iguanas. We weren’t really afraid, just startled and interested.

The women tossed part of her sandwich to the eager iguana. He gobbled it in one mouthful. A guy standing next to me - speaking what sounded like German, was cajoling me to take a piece of banana in my hand and give it to the creature. Not so sure about that. I gave the man a piece of banana. His wife got impatient with our skittishness, took the banana from her husband, held it in her hand toward the iguana. It was gone in a flash as the iguana came up and grabbed it. That was exciting.

4-3-2011 Akumal Beach Resort Mexico

2011-04-04T06:35:00.000-07:00

Had a leisurely day at the beach. We started off swimming a few laps in the pool before breakfast. It is a big pool. Wider than the normal hotel pools where you can swim across in about 13 stokes. I counted for a while twice and still was not at the end of the pool. I’m not much of a swimmer, but I know it moves the creaky joints around. I usually do the front crawl one lap and then backstroke on the next. I enjoyed looking up at the blue sky with wisps of white clouds slashed across the sky. Palm trees heavy laden with green coconuts larger than a softball draped palm fronds on either side of the pool. It was a sight to stop and enjoy. Stan and I were the only ones in the pool which made it even more pleasant. The water was warm and the gentle breeze cooled the humid air.

We are on the third floor of the hotel. The view is great. The walk up the stairs (no elevator) is tedious on my creaky knees and Stan’s lower back ache. This is the first time we actually plan and contain how many trips up and down the stairs. Instead of popping back up to change out of swim wear into street clothes, we used the near-by restroom. Oldth. It’s not for sissies.
Our room is cheerful. Opposite walls are painted the same bright colors: school bus yellow and red orange. A foot wide strip of wood is painted bright turquoise above the wall of drapes. Occasionally we see a little lizard an inch or so long scurrying by outside our doorway. I also saw some butterflies sleeping on the hallway walls this morning. They were more like moths, but big ones with pretty brown designs in their wings.

On the balcony we have a grass roof as we are on the top floor. I’m typing this note and watching the sun rise on a breezy morning. I better go get my camera.

Yesterday Stan was on the balcony listening to a bird sing his repertoire from the top of the opening to the grass roof. What an assortment of songs he had. The most delightful thing we noticed about this resort is the peace and quiet. No rowdy young adults playing loud music, drinking too much or splashing noisily in the pool. Just people quietly enjoying their day.

This resort is closed to Spring breakers and caters to mostly families of all shapes and sizes.
There are times when salsa lessons are offered by the pool with the accompanying large speakers. One evening at the bar we waited for a group of three musicians to start up. There was a drummer, keyboard and singer. No expectations on how this was going to sound. Pleasantly surprised to hear genres from the 80’s and 90’s some old time rock and roll and a bit of Latin cumbia and salsa. The dance floor was full the entire evening. Stan and I tried a few. We had just started dancing polkas, waltzes and two-steps five years ago in 2006 as an exercise after his heart attack in May of 2005. After weekly dancing for five years we can finally find the beat and have some fun.

4-3-2011 Akumal Beach Resort Mexico

2011-04-03T07:57:00.000-07:00

The trip to Mexico takes about a day. For an early flight we reluctantly drag out of bed a little before 3 am to catch our flight at 6:15. Traffic is light, but then there is the tension of riding the bus from the outlining parking. We enjoy being picked up promptly, however the bus dutifully picks up all of the other early birds too.

You think there just couldn’t be a crowd of people at the airport at the Frontier counter to check in. There was. All the other fellow 150 travelers on this charter flight to Cancun were already waiting in line to greet the 3 or 4 folks up front to check us in. For this kind of flight, we can check a bag with no additional charge. So guess what? Everyone does. We really don’t like to slep our bags on board to stow in the over head bid. We just do it due to the $25/bag cost.

So off we go. Five years ago we came to this same resort area for my sixtieth birthday along with John, our son and his girlfriend Rachel and our daughter Jamie. The good news is that the place is vaguely familiar. The bad news déjàvous sets in as you try to remember what you really encountered before.

Visiting a place twice is always interesting. It was so fun the first time, all the missing amenities really didn’t matter. We have been in and out of a lot of beautiful hotels at charming places all over the world since them so you notice little things and then quickly get over it. After all we are in the Riviera Maya peninsula south of Cancun in one of the most charming places on the planet. The beds are hard for me, but Stan loves them. The pillows don’t squish like the cloud of puff we slept in Prague Czech Republic at an old hotel that just been refurbished with high ceilings and wonderful European fixtures in the bathrooms. Here in Mexico the place is clean enough for me where the floor glimmers against rays of sun shining in through the balcony window. There is separate room for the toilet and one for the shower. Oops – no light in the shower, but oh well. Missing that hot water boiler, so I can have a quick cup of tea before starting the day. We did have a bottle of chilled Champaign waiting on the counter in the bedroom when we arrived. A nice touch at no cost for repeat visitors to the resort.

To me internet use is like providing toilet paper. I need it and want. Most of all it should be convenient and included with the cost of the room. Last time I paid $5 - $10 for a card 30 minutes of internet time in the lobby at their computers. Seemed high, but this was five years ago and internet not quite as necessary in people’s lives. Today I can use their internet for free for about 10 – 15 minutes then must relinquish it for the next person. BTW (by the way) there are usually no “next” persons. They have blocked Facebook, which wasn’t even invented five years ago, but has become an important part of how I personally communicate with family and friends. I could also buy internet access for a week for $35. I would need to slep my computer down three floors (no elevators) and camp out in the lobby to use it. I really don’t’ want to admit my internet hobby costs me money. So that doesn’t fit. As I said, it’s like toilet paper. You don’t expect to pay by the square.

Akumal Beach Resort 4-2-2011

2011-04-02T16:43:00.000-07:00

Akumal Beach Resort is everything we dreamed of.

Coconut palms heavy with large green coconuts dot the landscape of the soft waves genitally caressing the white beach sand.

Sitting on in a beach lounge chair under a thrashed roof canopy listening to the sounds of the sea. A few people meander along the edge of the water. There are no obtrusive sounds of music blaring. Just peace and quiet.

This place is known for casual vacationing. Many people return here with their family over and over again.

We moved from napping in lounge chairs to trying out some salsa lessons by the pool. Stan has that hip action down pat. My hips are a little big to really give it a rip. We both enjoyed the time in the sun to the Latin beat.

We will be here for a week and look forward to some snorkeling with lots of time for relaxation.

Poland - People on our trip 2010

2010-09-04T06:55:00.001-07:00

There were about 21 or 22 people on our bus during the trip to Europe.

Jeanie, Wanda, Francis, Teresa, Teresa (Stephanie) and Walter, Sylvia and Chester, Connie and Tony, Stan and Joyce, Dolores and Ted, Andy, Jean and Robert, Diane, Frank and Jane (Janina), and of course John Gora made the trip a delight.

All these folks were from Canada except Stan and I.

Prague - Ceske Krumlov - Ceske Budejovice - Vienna

Vienna and Apelton Winnery Austria

I never though that we could wear out an umbrella on a trip, but with gusty winds the frame such give way.

Bratisalva Solvaki - Budapest Hungary

Bratisalva was the rainy and windiest. Several stayed on the bus instead of braving the driving rains and winds. Budapest was really fun and interesting especially the large indoor market.

Zakopane and Krakow Poland

Doorways in Zakopane and Krakow

Poland 2010 Hotels and food

2010-09-04T06:54:00.000-07:00

Doorways in Europe are intriguing. Some tattered from years of use and some inviting and upscale.

Here is a sampling of food. I usually ate it before I remembered to take a photo.

We stayed at many lovely hotels.

Prague

The first one in Prague was the best.

HOTEL CENTURY OLD TOWN ( 4 * )
Na Porici 7
Prague 1
11000 Prague, Czech Republic
Tel : (420) 2 180 0800
Fax : (420) 2 180 0801

The ceilings were at least 15 foot high. The rooms were spotless. Beds had those fluffy mattresses and soft down (or down like) comforters. WIFI (Internet service for laptops) worked great to connect in the room and was lightening fast to upload videos and photos.

We really like to have a cup of tea or coffee in the room. There was a boiler handy. There were fluffy soft towels and a wash cloth. The bathroom included a makeup mirror. There was a hair blower at a desk. Living the dream of luxury.

If you like to use a wash cloth be sure to take one with you. The first hotel was the one that had washcloths.

Ceske Budejovie Czech Republic

HOTEL GOMEL ( 4 * )
Prazska Trida 2306/14
37004 Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic
Tel : (420) 389 102 111
Fax : (420) 389 102 333

After a long day riding on the bus and driving through beautiful country side. We stopped in the charming village of Ceska Krumlov and then on to Ceska Budajovice where were toured the Budweiser plant. Replete with good food and fresh beer we were ready for an evening's rest.

Hotel Gomel is nothing to write home about. Rooms were typical European- - small size where you just don't know where to lay out your luggage. No wash cloth, but that's OK after all you are in Europe and the sights are spectacular. The mattresses are not quite as soft and puffy, but more like camping in a tent with a bed roll on the ground. Just missing the tent flap. Breakfasts with tasty dark breads and lovely meats, cheeses and fruits that get you started on your day. The view of the city from our room was delightful. The windows open so you can get some refreshing outside air.

Many in the group walked to the near-by square to attend Sunday Mass.

Vienna

AUSTRIA TREND HOTEL ANANAS ( 4 * )
Rechte Wienzeile 93-95/ Sonnenhofgasse 8-10
1050 Vienna, Austria
Tel : (43) 1 546 20
Fax : (43) 1 545 4242

The room was cozy and had a little desk under the window looking out to the charming courtyard of other buildings. Stan and I had tea and pastry over looking that view siting on coral leather chairs and a stool. There was a refrigerator, but no boiler for tea. I got used to hot water from the facet - kind of like warm tea. We drank the water from the facets in all the places, however still bought some bottled water to carry around during the day.

Budapest Hungary

HOTEL MERCURE BUDAPEST CITY CENTER ( 4* )
20 Vaci utca
1052 Budapest, Hungary
Tel : (36) 1 485 3100
Fax : (36) 1 485 3111

This is a very nice Hotel in the main part of the city. We walked about 2-3 blocks from where the bus dropped us off to this hotel. It was close to lovely restaurants and shopping along the streets. Most streets were for walking and shopping as traffic from cars were on other streets. No washcloth. Breakfast was a delight.

There was easy access to three computers by sitting on bar stools in the inviting bar area. You slide in your room key ( or any other credit card sized card) and you could use the internet for free. There was no way to upload photos from USB ports or the like as you only had access to the screen and key board. The font was set so large that you could read it across the room.

Rooms did not have free WIFI. This is where you were required to pay for the service in Euros (6 for two hours - 9 for 24 hours). We walked back to our hotel from the main covered market on afternoon. Very handy.

Zakopane Poland

HOTEL MERCURE KASPROWY ( 4 * )
ul. Szymaszkowa
34-500 Zakopane, Poland
Tel : (48) 18 202 4022
Fax : (48) 18 202 4024

This hotel was a delight. The view across the meadows to the snowed covered peaks of the Tetras mountains was a sight to remember. Stepping out onto the balcony even on a rainy day was refreshing.

The internet was easily connected by the red cable that was provided. Uploading videos was a sluggish process and I finally gave up on that. I uploaded a few pictures which seemed to go smoother. I don't remember seeing any computers or a business center for the rest of the travelers.

The place was roomy at least enough for lay out the luggage.

Stan and I ate breakfast early around 7 one day and had time to visit the swimming pool before our departure for a tour. I'm glad we did. Always take your swim suit just in case although I think they rented them also. The pool was about 3 times the size of most indoor hotel pools. It was about 4-5 feet deep so plenty of space and depth to swim. The locker rooms were co-ed, however there was a changing room for privacy. The pool was included. There were also other amenities for a small charge. If you stay here, plan to use the pool.

Krakow

We stayed at the Novotel .

Hotel Novotel Kraków Centrum
www.accorhotels.com
Ul. T. Kościuszki 5, Kraków - 12 299 29 00

The rooms are spacious, still no wash cloth. The breakfasts a delight as usual.

The hotel is within walking distance from the main square. We stayed at this same hotel last year and did walk from place to place. This time it was so rainy that we ordered golf carts with plastic to shelter us for a ride down to the square. On the way back, still too rainy so we rented a cab for 15 zoltys for 4 of us.

There are a variety of covers on the beds. Some beds are thick pads over hard boards or so it seems. Others are like clouds of soft down that you can just melt into after a long day.

Most places have internet services in their complimentary business centers. I bring along a notebook computer as I found in years past there were not always business centers, but generally some WIFI was available if you had your own computer. You can also unload your photos if you are using up lots of space on a flash card. The flip camera I use holds 60 minutes of video, which is quite a bit when more songs I record are about 2 - 5 minutes. But it is nice to know I have a place to save them through out the trip as this camera doesn't have a place to use and extra flash card like cameras do. I always carry extra batteries, flash cards, battery chargers and plug adapters. Over the years you learn by traveling to just bring along extra stuff.

Some Rooms had free WIFI in the rooms or with use of connection cord as in Zakopane and Krakow. Budapest I was mostly internet less for uploading photos / videos as it cost 6 Euros for a couple of hours or 9 Euro (~$15) for 24 hours. After all I am on vacation and internet can wait. I was able to make a quick note on facebook about every day.

Local Currency is always a problem when you arrive in a country. US dollars and coins are worthless unless converted to local currency and coins. Even euros are not such friendly coins. People you might want to buy a postcard, cup of coffee or use of the WC (water closet - bathroom) usually about 50 cents worth want their coins or currency. Often I found the tours started in the mornings, guides get busy telling you about this and that about the community you are visiting and you are coinless with it is time to use the WC. Yikes.!. It if really hard to plan around this one traveling across borders with limit time for finding places to exchange money. The tours don't really wait for you to get with the program and many hotels didn't have facilities for exchange. There are ATMs around, hopefully you have the right card. We used one in Budapest and requested 19,000 forint, which I think is about $90. Vacation minds don't always think in mathematical term. You can always buy some local currency at larger banks in US metro cities. be sure to get small denominations as those large bills look great, but are not so easy to bargain with in the markets. We didn't use visa at all in the open market shops. Visa / Mastercard works for upscale shops. Stan bought a really nice belt. That shop took visa, but really wanted local currency so be obliged due to the cost of using credit card services for the shop.

Kradow 9-6-2010

2010-08-24T04:53:00.003-07:00

September 5, 2010

In the afternoon after our long walk through Krakow we went to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Stan and I were there last year and enjoyed it immensely. We debated if we should stay back so Stan could practice accordion that John Gora had on the bus. John had serenaded us on our bus ride through Krakow to the Salt Mine. Either choice would have been fun.

We did the tour of the mine. It is a challenge for aging knees as there were many staircases going down. The railings were sturdy and plodding along one step at a time seemed to work OK and didn't hold up the group. One very long stair case I didn't start counting steps until were about half way down. I counted 80 steps. Other staircases were 39 to 60 steps long. It was a staircase kind of day.

The most interesting chamber is the one with all the reliefs carved in the walls and giant chandeliers hanging in a magnificent hall. This is used for weddings and Mass. As I think about our visit and what we saw, it still amazes me that miners did all the sculptures instead of some slick laser tooled artisan that was paid to professionally complete these mighty works. However they were done, it is a must see experience.

Toward the end of the trip, I'm almost pictured out. Here are some photos I took the first time through the salt mine. We were wearing the same coats and shirts.

We had our farewell dinner across the street from the salt mine. My vegetarian meal was battered and fried goat cheese with a mound of boiled vegetables (broccoli, cauliflower and carrots). Sometimes I think when you say you want a vegetarian meal the restaurants are afraid you are starving and give you servings to feed a table of six. Stan and other meat eaters had tender roast duck with potatoes and red cabbage sauerkraut. Dessert I remember from last year when we went there was the same this year; a scoop of ice cream floating in a generous serving of fresh raspberry sauce. Pretty tangy and yummy.

We saw dancers getting ready to play for the evening, but they were getting ready for the next bunch of visitors. The restaurant had reconfigured the place to make booths that seated 6 with high backs so it would have been near impossible to enjoy any playing or folk dancing from our seats as you couldn't see over the backs of the booths. Last year they had long tables with lower bench backs that worked well for entertaining crowds.

We all climbed back into the bus. John Gora entertained us with the accordion on the way back to the hotel. He sure can play and sing any song we requested and more. Made for a fun evening to top off the trip.

Next morning we all left to go back home. The long 9+ hour plane ride from Krakow to Chicago and another 2+ to Denver makes for a long day, but worth it in the end.

MON , SEPTEMBER 06 - KRAKOW - END OF TOUR ! Early morning transfer to Krakow airport for flight home .

Krakow Poland 9-5-2010

2010-08-24T04:53:00.001-07:00

Krakow Poland

Sunday September 5, 2010
The group crawled into the bus early in the morning with coats on and umbrellas in hand for a walking tour of Krakow, Poland.

We walked up a pretty steep incline on the Royal Wawel Hill to view the beauty of the outside of the buildings. The cathedral was having mass so no visitors unless you intended to stay for all of the mass. We did go quietly through a chambers in the lower area that had the sarcophagus of the recently deceased President and his wife who were killed in a plane crash earlier this year.

We walked down the incline overlooking a view of the city and turned back to see the magnificence of the spires and roofs of the many buildings that had been added on over the years. Of interest on the drizzly day were the rain spouts made of copper in the shape of gargoyles, dragons heads complete with crowns and ducks which were flush with water that slashed gently from two stories above.

At the bottom of the hill we walked several blocks back to the main square of the city. St. Mary's church had the trumpeter playing out of the top windows to mark the hour. Mass was going on there also. We were on our own to explore the area for a few hours.

I hurried to buy a few things I saw along the way and then we stopped for a quick bowl of soup in a very reasonably priced cafe about two blocks from the main square. John Gora had spotted it on our walking journey. A bowl of mushroom and noodle soup with bread was about 3.6 zloty or about $1.80. Try to buy that in Colorado and you will be sadly out of luck.

One thing of great importance on walking / shopping tours is the finding and using a water closet (WC- Bathroom). The cafe had none of course at those prices. We walked through the updated cloth hall (mall) of shops with upscale Polish crafts and jewelery. No WC.

Finally we went through an archway across from the main square to one of the coffee / beer bars toward the back. It was a cozy, trendy place filled with young people enjoying the day called Figa-2 Kachwa I Wspolnicy Spotka Jawna 31-042 Krakow, Rynek Glowny 7/11. For 14 zloty (less then $5) we had the most relaxing cups of tea, yes with facilities in a very contemporary shop. The beer was served extra cold and the ice formed on the pipes attested to that.

SUN, SEPTEMBER 05 – KRAKOW Half-day tour of Krakow, including: The Royal Wawel Hill , the Royal Route and the Old Town area with the Old Town Market Square, the Cloth Hall, the Barbican, St Mary's Church with 15th c Witt Stwosz Altar inside, Florianska Gate. Afternoon to Wieliczka Salt Mine and afterwards Farewell Dinner . Overnight in Krakow. ( B , D )

ZAKOPANE –KRAKOW 9-4-2010

2010-08-24T04:52:00.001-07:00

September 4, 2010 Saturday

On bus trip from Zakopane to Krakow.

Last evening in Zakopane Poland was a big hit. We walked up wide gravel steps to a mountain goralli restaurant. We knocked at the door and were met with a man with an axe in one hand. He lined up the men as they went in first followed by the women. As we entered the man smacked the hood over the open fire a good one and about knocked our socks off.

We set down at long picnic tables of white wood that was sandblasted to leave that interesting rough finish. The benches were shorter then a normal chair as they were on top of two big logs.

Three musicians played folk music and sang in those extra high voices. One guy played a 3 string instrument bigger than a cello and smaller than a contra bass. We recognized many of the tunes that were adapted to the goralli mountain style of music. John Gora and Diane treated us by dancing to one of these rapid paced dances. Feet moved at double time.

Soup was served in little buckets hanging from a wrought iron holder. My soup included chunks of hard-boiled egg, while Stan’s was more a beef vegetable like goulash. Dinner followed. It was tender chunks of lamb and ham on a skewer with some potatoes, sauteed mushrooms and a snappy pickle. I had potato pancakes with fried mushrooms. Dessert was on fire when it arrived at the dinner table. Ice cream topped with flaming whipped cream.

The waiter and waitresses kept us jumping. Many times they brought out platters of drink and food, then quickly dropped the platter on the rock floor scaring us with a start.

The waitress cut off a customer's underwear using a machete to slice off the underwear on each side and then pulled them out from the back. The male waiter said in Polish- you better loosen your belt and pants or she'll pull your n---- off. Then the guy had to through them up on the rafters which were already full of bras, ties and other underwear.

The next morning replete with food and laughter we settled into our bus seats for a leisurely nap on the way from Zakopane to Krakow. We stopped nearby to drink in the beautiful view of the snow covered peaks of the Tetra mountains and the lush green of the valleys. At a church (Bachledowka) off the normal tourist stopping point, we marveled at the beauty of the hand carved wood. The ceiling of the church was in the shape of a big cross with squares of carvings, symbols of the community. Men in goralli costumes wear these same symbols craved in metal on their belts.
The homes in the area are typical in style with the high peaked roofs most with lacy curtains in the windows and floors cascading from window boxes. The foundations of these homes are adorned with repeating patterns of river rock such as a large one next to two long skinny ones. It must have taken some time to line up the supply of rocks for these interesting designs.

We stopped in a small city at the local Saturday market. It was filled with all stalls of locals selling normal goods such as bags of candy, socks, shoes, coat, pots and pans, bushels bags of carrots, onions and pickle cucumbers. I won’t tell you what the vendor said when I comments on his nice bag of carrots. I don’t speak Polish, but gestures tell it all.

We all voted to skip the rafting trip as the river was overflowing from the recent rains. Riding on a wooden canoe on fast current isn’t as charming for us older folks as it was last year when the river was almost quiet with calm.

We went instead to Pope John Paul II’s church where he was born and became an alter boy in Wadowice. Stan and I went in, sat down and said a few prayers. Up front by the alter were two chair draped in white with a large bow softly tied in the back of each chair. Soon a wedding would take place in this beautiful setting.
We strolled around the square and enjoyed a scoop of strawberry ice cream for about 50 cents or 1.6 zloty. I like that they serve little small scoops at reasonable prices. This gives you a chance to try it out without loads of calories. Some times more is not better.

We arrived in Krakow at the Novotel Hotel. This is the place we stayed last year on our Poland trip. It started to rain again about the time we were leaving for our restaurant in the downtown square. We rode on golf carts in groups of 6 to the square. It is interesting to be on the back with cars rushing toward you. One time we passed a horse and carriage.

We had about an hour until our restaurant reservations. Not so much fun to stroll in the chilled raining air as it would be a balmy evening. We ducked into St Mary’s church. This place is amazing. It is about 500 years old and adorned with so many interesting designs that your mind feels it is inside a kaleidoscope. We visited that year so I have a slight remembrance of this place. Once a day the tall ornately carved and painted doors behind the alter are opened to more magnificent carvings adorned in silvers and gold. The doors were opened this evening. We slide into an empty seat and prayed for a few things happy to be out of the rain.

We walked under our umbrella toward the restaurant across the square and ducked into the shop next door. The back room had a book store. It is definitely more challenging looking through a book store when all the books are in Polish. The rest of the store had an interesting assortment of things in separate room ran by different people. There were earring displayed floor to ceiling on three foot diameter columns. Seriously – every inch had a set of earrings hanging from a hook. I pawed through the scarfs, but just didn’t see anything I wanted. Another room sold T-shirts.

Finally, time to dinner. We went down a couple flights of stairs next door to a cozy place. The exposed bricks on the wall and arched ceilings told of older days that this place might have been some secret hiding place with tunnels. Who knows. The food was great. Pieorgies – freshly made and delicious. Dessert was the Pope’s favorite – flakey crusts with cheese- whipped cream type thick filling.
Back to the hotel, this time in a cab as it was now raining harder. Four of us paid 15 zlotes or about $4.50. Well worth the quick ride back.

Here is music from the restaurant. It was so dark in there you can hardly see the musicians, however the music is worth a listen. Many familiar songs played Goralli Mountain man style. This is the region were many of these song initiated.

Itinerary - skipped the rafting trip due to high, rapid flowing river

SAT , SEPTEMBER 04 –ZAKOPANE KRAKOW After breakfast we leave Zakopane. Rafting on Dunajec River - Dunajec Gorge through the limestone rocks of Pieniny Mountains is one of the most beautiful views in Poland. Sitting comfortably on wooden rafts just admire the landscape and listen to the stories and jokes told by the navigating rafts men. Stop at a local restaurant after the rafting for those wishing to have a snack or light lunch . Afternoon arrival in Krakow. Free time before dinner in the Old Town. Overnight in Krakow . ( B , D )

ZAKOPANE Poland 9-3-2010

2010-08-24T04:51:00.002-07:00

Zakopane Poland

Zakopane is the most interesting place. Houses are distinct here with high pitched roofs to ward off the snow in the winter. This is a ski town with all the charm and vitality of the young people it attracts to the locals happy to bargain and sell their wares.

The main street have a delightful selection of local craft, smoked goat cheese pressed into tubes and other shapes with Polish designs. There are leather coats, scarfs and jewelry to delight the visitors.

At the end of the street is a funicular that goes up to the top of the hill. More crafts along with sausages smoking on a grill. A road goes on the ridge of the mountain. There are horse and carts that you can pay a few zlotys to take a ride.

Across the meadow you can see the cottages nestled in the forest. The snow covered tatra mountains peak out of the cloudy landscape. It is about 40 degrees this chilly day with intermittent rain.

After a brief look around we hurry back down the funicular to the warmth of the shops below.

Stan and I found a bank and exchanged the variety of currency (florins - Budapest, Euro - Vienna and Czech currency) to zloty so we could buy some lunch. We walked up the main street and peered at a few menus. A lady waiting on the steps of a cafe saw us looking and struck up a conversation. She noticed that we were probably Americans. We discovered after a few words and hearing her accent that she was from Australia. It is a small world after all.

We meandered up the street some more and found an interesting cafe that we had heard gorali mountain music playing the year before. We picked a table made of logs and sat down on a well worn sheep's skin draped on the seat. I ordered potato and cheese pierogies which were some the best I have eaten in Poland. Stan had noodle soup. Watching the people pass made the afternoon a delight.

We stopped by a bakery on that way back down the hill and bought a couple of Pushks (Polish name for jam stuffed Bismark type donuts).

Here is some interesting goralli Mountain Man folk music played at a restaurant

Itinerary Rainy and chilly

FRI, SEPTEMBER 03 – ZAKOPANE Breakfast at the hotel. Half-day tour of Zakopane, including: Funicular ride to Gubalowka Hill gives a beautiful view over Polish and Czech Tatras, Tatra Museum, a walk along Krupowki Street. Time for shopping - friendly street vendors will offer local goods (lamb-wool sweaters, walking sticks, wooden figures). Dinner at a bonfire with accompaniment of a folklore band. Overnight in Zakopane ( B, D )

BUDAPEST – SZENTENDRE - ZAKOPANE Poland 9-2-2010

2010-08-24T04:51:00.001-07:00

9-2-2010
Our bus voted to skip the tour of the village of Szentendre, Hungary and just go directly to Zakopane Poland. It was still a 6 hour bus trip and we didn't want to add another few hours to a tiring day. At some point another city tour just plan wears you out.

The countryside through Slovakia and Poland is beautiful. Rolling hills turned to skiable mountainsides covered with lush green grasses and pine trees. We entertained ourselves by reading, sleeping or eating food we brought along from the generous breakfasts.

Our Hotel Mercure is at the edge of top high on the hillside with a spectacular panoramic view of the snow covered tetra mountain across the meadow dotted with charming wooden homes sporting high pitched roofs.

We had dinner at a mountain type restaurant with an open fire burning in the center of the room. Folk musicians entertained us as we enjoyed the food. My favorite was the mushroom soup ladled from pots hanging from wrought iron hooks at the dinner table. There is something about the flavor of those Europeon mushrooms that is different and tasty. Food was attractively presented on wooden rectangular platters. One heaping platters per person that included pork roast, pork and blood sausage, sauerkraut and potatoes. I had spinach pieogies (pasta type filled dumpling. Small cakes and pastries were served for dessert to top off the meal.

We have eaten more food in a week then we probably eat in a month. Thank goodness for stretchy waistbands. There is an indoor pool that is about four times bigger then most hotel pools in the lower floor of this building. I am trying to figure out how to squeeze in a few laps before our touring journey. The pool opens at 8 am and our tour starts about 9. It is another cloudy rainy day. We had planned to visit the large outdoor market stalls that line the main street on our way up the gondola to the top of the mountain overlooking the valley and tetra high peaks of the tetra mountains across the way.

THU, SEPTEMBER 02 – BUDAPEST – SZENTENDRE - ZAKOPANE After breakfast we depart Budapest. We visit Szentendre - the town of artists of middle ages atmosphere, which is built between the hills and the Danube, parallel to the river. It has a pleasant atmosphere, with picturesque old streets, 18th century houses and Greek orthodox churches. An artist colony is settled here. For visitors there are many museums in the town: the unique Kovács Margit Ceramic Museum the Marzipan Museum, Open-air Museum, Caprice Jewelry Manufactory. Opportunity for shopping. Continue via Slovak Republic to Zakopane. Dinner and overnight in Zakopane. ( B , D )

Budapest 9-1-2010

2010-08-24T04:50:00.002-07:00

September 1, 2010
Budapest Hungary

This place is awesome especially now that the rain and wind has stopped we have a semi sunshiny day.

Breakfast at the Mercure Hotel located in the heart of downtown was a epicurian delight. Lots of right breads, flake croissants cheeses, ham and sausages filled trays. Cereal was that great granola with right thick milk.

We took a tour of Budapest and across the river to Buda Hungary. The tour was partially on the bus and part walking tour.

We learned a little about Attila the Hun. Mostly I remembered that he had 400 wives. That is a hand full.

On the top of the hill we walked right by the front door of their Prime Minister's home - like our white house. No Guards. No high fences. Our guide said that this man was elected by the people - therefore accessible to the people.

Hungarian language is not understood by many. It is based on mathematics and not similar at all to the romance or Slavic languages.

The tour guide showed us many eye-catching sights. Hungary is really a very nice place with an interesting history. We visited St. Stephens Basilica in Budapest close to our hotel. It was reconstructed from being dark and dank to the charmer it is today with rich red marble and gold adornments above all columns. It was truly magnificent. I'll add some photos once I have access to a computer for a longer time.

King Mathias Cathedral was being reconstructed also. The brightly colors tiles are made of pottery and add to the charm authentic to Hungarian type style.

Hungary was ravages by various evasions over 30 times over the past 50-60 years. We heard the animosity in the voice of our guide that she suffered as a child and her parents endured many times over. The Soviets killed over 2 million Hungarians from 1944 - 1989. Families belonged to the secret police. Their children are reaping the benefits of the graft that was passed so many years ago. When the German's left and the Russian's came in to help the Hungarians, the Hungarian Jews embraced the Communists (now called Socialists). There was a lot of money exchanged hands during the war for a variety of reasons. Over the years this money grew into an empire from many at the costs of freedom for the others. A small group of a few people have control of the economic banks, insurance companies and other business enterprises for years. Regular people are at the mercy of these folks even though this is a democracy. These powerful folks are untouchable according to our guide. There is a law passed recently that does not allow anything to be said about Jewish people or Hungarian citizens will be taken to prison. Soros is the guy who really has the power in the country though now. He lives in the US and a great friend of Obama - Yikes.!.

On a lighter note - Did you know that Funiculars were built to carry fat and heavy general to their palaces on top of the hill? They are pretty good for fat Americans also.

There is a question about the Lion statues around the community of Budapest. Youngsters climb up to see if they really have tongues. I peeked and didn't really see a tongue, but the bus was going pretty fast.

Another interesting tidbit from our guide is about Franz Liszt. He was quite a handsome man at the time and it is said he had over 1,000 lovers. Busy guy.

There are 2 million Hungarians living in Budapest. There are 700,000 Hungarians that live in Cleveland.

Afternoon of leisure included a walk through a two story enclosed market; crafts and food on the top floor, vegetable/fruit and meats on the first floor. I had the most delicious bean soup (butter beans) with a generous scoop of broth, potatoes and tomatoes on top. Stan had stuffed cabbage rolls, sauerkraut and meat chunks. Yummo.

We had an interesting dinner at a restaurant high on the hills of Budapest. The bus could barely make it around the hairpin turns on the one lane steep roads. We were greeted to some sweet wine in cute little porcelain jugs. A guy was cracking a whip in the air. Some of our group tried it, but not much whipping resulted.

We started off with Hungarian Goulash soup and then heaping platters of food including potatoes, garlic noodles, rice, vegetables and tons of meats, schnitzel prepared veal, chicken, roast pork. It was more then we could eat. Dessert was some kind of thinly layered cake topped with whip cream. Wow.!. We have enough food for two weeks instead of one.

The entertainment was the top of the evening. A dulcimer is piano type instrument with the keys missing. Two small mallets are used to hit each string and make the music. It is interesting when played with skill. A violin, viola and bass compliment the music. Then the dancer came out with such rapid dancing I thought my head would spin. Great time and good music.

One of these girls was such a joy to watch as she could dance with the fastest feet ever.

Itinerary - Seems we saw most of it

WED, SEPTEMBER 01 – BUDAPEST
Half-day tour of Budapest: Tour to include: Heroes Square, Millenary Monument, Vajdahunyad Castle, Andrássy Boulevard, State Opera House, Basilica – interior visit, Parliament-interiors, view from Gellért hill, Castle district, Matthias Church-interior visit, Fishermen's Bastion-interior visit, Margaret Island. Afternoon at leisure. Dinner with folklore at a local restaurant .The Courtyard House is 20 minutes from the heart of the city is on the top of the Hármashatár mountain, offers you perfect relaxation and unique experience. Here revives the peace and hospitality of the ancient noble manors. You can enjoy the silence of nature and can take delight in the magnificent panorama from the terrace. All the bridges of Budapest are visible from this very place. The Rosetrellis restaurant that has a full panorama.
Overnight in Budapest. ( B , D )

VIENNA – BRATISLAVA - BUDAPEST 8-31-2010

2010-08-24T04:50:00.001-07:00

8-31-2010 Brateislava Slovakia

It was driving rain and wind driving to the quaint town of Bratislava Slovakia. I braved it with a few of my bus-mates to view this charming village. On a better day it would have been fun to have a cup of tea at one of their many outdoor cafes or to shop in their cute stores. No time today. Must walk fast to get out of the rain and keep up on these winding street of this little village.

Then several of musicians came around our tables to play requests.

We ate dinner was chicken with paprika sauce traditional for the area. Dessert was cheese cake between tender flake crust. Don't drink water with gas it can create an amazing nightmere up and down your throat.

Here is a sampling of some the great music we heard from the gypsy chamber orchestra. A piano sized dulcimer, contra bass, viola, violin and of course the maestro on the violin played great classical and also folk tunes.

TUE, AUGUST 31 - VIENNA – BRATISLAVA - BUDAPEST
After breakfast we depart from Vienna and travel to Bratislava. The main features we will see are the
Old Town and the Castle, After which we will have time for light lunch or snack before continuing to Budapest where we will arrive in the late afternoon. Dinner and overnight in Budapest. ( B , D )

Vienna - 8-30-2010

2010-08-24T04:49:00.002-07:00

8-30-2010 Vienna

We took a ride on the metro (subway) for 1.80 euros (about $3.60) one way. We exchanged some money for way more commission and extra charges. Don't go to Western Union. The hotel was better.

The downtown open courtyard with upscale shops on either side it a delight to visit. As it was Sunday afternoon most of the shops were closed except the one selling Mozart balls or was it Mozart’s ball. We tried one. It was delicious chocolate surrounding creamy maple or hazelnut with some mocha swirls.
We peered into some shoes stores. Really. Isn’t 500 euros a little high for shoes even if they were attractive high heel leather boots. Men’s wing tips were 395 euros. Stan skipped and stayed with his tennis shoes.

There was a pretty fountain off to one of the side streets. We enjoyed watching the people. We tried to guess if they were Americans or Europeans by their shoes. Not many American on the square today, but we really did see a pair of bright orange ones.

Vienna Austria Through rain soaked umbrella we looked up to see the most magnificient sight as we walked through interesting parts of the city. We walked under archways to view quick videos of the area on large screen TVs on the wall. One was about Lipizzaner stallions. We peered through the viewing windows and saw the horses heads peeking out of the stalls. That would be a sight to see them working out in the ring some day.

The buildings are coordinated architecture with no apparent graffiti in this downtown area. The outskirts of the city still had graffiti marks on sign and sides of buildings. A shame really.

We went for a tour of summer palace of the Hapsburg family. Now I know why my mother-in-law, Alice loved crystal chandeliers and ornate gold tables with marble tops. We have some of those tables that reminded me of the furnishings the folks had in this summer palace.

They had 16 kids. Must have been the chilly evenings and romantic candle light in front of a toasty fireplace listening to Strauss waltzes that increased the population of that family.

The rain stopped after our tour of the summer palace just in time for a quick walk touring the beautiful gardens. The high fountain was three tiers of relaxing cascading water melodies as it flowed to the pool below the statues.

Restoration is interesting in that netting or boards are used that are painted the with the same design as the building being restored so the viewing public has a chance to see the building as they would look.

The bus drove across the bridge over the Danube River and down the road to show us some modern buildings in the city also. Then took the round about and back we went to the core of the city.

This is so much historical significance with the musical composers (Strauss - Mozart) leaving us with their delightful music centuries later.

We drove about an hour through the country side to Apetlon winery. This is a family owned facility that had all the charm you could pack into an evening of fun. The pork roast sliced about one inch thick was tender as you could ever eat. A large round dumpling was served along with the gravy. Delish.

Dessert was traditional Austrian yellow cake fingers layered between whipped cream.

Wine Wine Wine fresh and interesting flavors. We took a tour of the wine cellar and also tried some Ice Wine which was sweet to the taste. It is made right when the grapes are left on the vine and turn a little icy.

Topping off the evening, the Grandfather brought in his drums and some locals along with our tour director, John Gora joined in both playing accordions. People danced along with the music and had a great fun time.

Authentic Austria as it's best.

Here are a few videos.

MON, AUGUST 30 - VIENNA
Today we spend the day exploring Vienna: The city tour will show you the most important historical sights along the Ringstraße, including the State Opera House, the National Museums, the Imperial Palace, the Parliament, the City Hall, the Burgtheater and the University, before taking you to the magnificent Schönbrun Palace, summer residence of the Habsburg family. Afternoon walking tour of city center and some free time for lunch and shopping ( B , L )

CESKE BUDEJOVICE – VIENNA 8-29-2010

2010-08-24T04:49:00.001-07:00

Sunday 8-29-2010

Bus trip from Cesky Budejovice To Vienna Austria a mere 120 miles (200 Kilometers) which would generally take about 2 hours will take about 4 hours winding through forests on narrow two lane roads.

People are happy on the bus after many attended mass this morning after sleeping on cramped quarters of the Gomel Hotel on bed that like a slab of plywood with a thin pad of a mattress. Some liken it to sleeping in a tent in the countryside with the exception that there was no tent flap.

We ate breakfast with the Germans instead of the café next door where we were supposed to eat. They had good tea / coffee with dark breads spread with creamy butter that add substance to your ribs. A piece of cheese an egg and two and we are set to go. I think I will keep attempting to make that yummy dark bread when I return home.
It is raining out again, so a good time to be cooped up in a bus writing notes or reading a good book. This off again on again rain makes the forest floor lush bright green probably filled with mushrooms.

We pass through villages of red tiled roofs darkly aged from time and baskets of pink and red petunias or geraniums cascading out of window sill planters. Field have herds of white cows gently eating grasses.

Both on our way through the Czech Republic and to Vienna Austria we saw fields of corn and rolls of hay dotting the landscape from recently harvested alfalfa (hay). Stan noticed some pretty hefty power lines, carrying 500 to 750 kV (kilovolts) that supply electricity throughout the region. This compares to most of our power lines that carry generally 230 to 500 kV. As we didn’t see any power plants, but did see cooling towers from probably nuclear power generation plants.
We rode the metro for about $3 to downtown to exchange money. It was really a better rate at the hotel (1.32 to 1.68). We really need to do something about the dollar. Euros are a killer.

The downtown open courtyard with upscale shops on either side it a delight to visit. As it was Sunday afternoon most of the shops were closed except the one selling Mozart balls or was it Mozart’s ball. We tried one. It was delicious chocolate surrounding creamy maple or hazelnut with some mocha swirls.

We peered into some shoes stores. Really. Isn’t 500 euros a little high for shoes even if they were attractive high heel leather boots. Men’s wing tips were 395 euros. Stan skipped and stayed with his tennis shoes.

There was a pretty fountain off to one of the side streets. We enjoyed watching the people. We tried to guess if they were Americans or Europeons by their shoes. Not many American on the square today, but we really did see a pair of bright orange ones.

We had dinner in a delightful place up a hill. The bus squeezed through the streets and let us out to enjoy the evening. Food was brought in on large platters. There was more than enough to feed an army. Veal schnitzel, slices of pork roast, ham, chicken, sausage, sauerkraut and potatoes. We added some freshly ground horseradish to add to the peace of resistance. I had potatoes pancakes with a sour cream pickle type sauce along with chucks of potatoes. Is that too many potatoes? Does it really matter.

The wine flowed freely as did the laughter. An accordion and violin player entertained us the evening through. They played every Polish song requested as we sang along and danced in the aisles. Connie and Tony from our group were celebrating their 46th anniversary to add to merriment.

SUN , AUGUST 29 : CESKE BUDEJOVICE – VIENNA .
After breakfast we drive to Vienna , one of the most beautiful cities in Europe with numerous cultural and historical landmarks . After checking in to hotel some leisure time before meeting for meeting for dinner with music and wine or beer at a local restaurant in Grinzing the most important wine hills in Vienna.
Overnight in Vienna . ( B , D )

PRAGUE - CESKY KRUMLOV – CESKE BUDEJOVICE 8-28-2010

2010-08-24T04:48:00.001-07:00

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Photos of Prague
The cathedral is called Saint Vitus Church

Folk dancing at dinner in Prague Stan Kropewnicki and John Gora enjoyed the broom dance which is a variation of musical chairs where the odd man out dances with a broom.

We left out lovely Hotel which was fully restored and loaded with amenities in the heart of Prague to ride on the bus for 3 or 4 hours on our way to Bud e Jo Vice. I type the word that way as our guide has taken on the task of pronouncing it in a very slow deliberate way by exaggerating every syllable to the point that we would giggle in the back of the bus like school children and mimic the name of the city at the same time she did. Three hours of listening to her chat away about little known nor interesting facts about the various sections of the cities in detail only a person looking for a parking place would care to hear.

I'm sure she knew a lot, but such didn't fit our needs for understanding and enjoying the ride to the next city. She showed a video about the region. Usually you view the videos before the trip and during. It had repetitive sing songy music that put the majority of the people on the bus straight to sleep.

One interesting thing that our guide told us was that her husband was having his 77th birthday and was invited to the President of the Czech Republic's home for breakfast as he was a famous jazz guitarist. This president (Claus) loves jazz and wanted to recognize this man's accomplishments. She mentioned that that previous president only liked rock and roll so he invited the Rolling Stones and Bon Jovi to entertain in the square.

We saw some interesting sites while visiting a charming small city of Krumlov with cobble stone village walkways. Walking up steep hillside pathways is sometimes a struggle for many of us on our trip, but the views from the top are worth plodding along. More steps than I counted down to the village. Quaint shops invited people to view the wares. Group trips are such that you are unable to stop as one could get lost in the crowds of tourists. These crowds are not like hurried manic workers pacing along, but lots of people filling the walkways would lead to losing your group pretty easily. By the time our group dispersed we were happy to just relax on a side street for a beer and coke.

My favorite delight was a bakery with an open window to buy an interesting piece of pastry called Tradlnik. It is a piece of sweet yeast dough rolled pretty thin and attached around a metal four inch cylinder. This roll is placed over an open oven to bake. Once finished the shop keeper takes the steel roller holding it vertical and slides the pastry off the cylinder then rolls it in sugar. For 40 Kronin ($2.50) you have a treat to eat as you stoll the walkways.

After a relaxing afternoon we bused it to Bud e Jo Vice to visit the Budweiser brewing facility where we had some beer and dinner of delicious breaded veal cutlets, potato salad Czech style and warm apple strudel. I'm not a fan of meat so potatoes and broccoli served in a hot skillet with a warm cheese sauce for me really hit the spot.

I learned that this Budweiser facility is not connected to the one in the USA. Same name same scriped logo Separate and different brewery. There is some type of name infringement going on. When both plants opened their door ages ago, who would now that a world wide presence would exist today. This Czech Budweiser plant does ship to America in cans under a different label. They would think of bottling their beer in cans here in Europe - glass quarts is the only way to go to maintain the taste so they say.

SAT , AUGUST 28 : PRAGUE - CESKY KRUMLOV – CESKE BUDEJOVICE
After breakfast departure from Prague to Cesky Krumlov, a UNESCO World Heritage Site . The town is picturesquely situated on the Vltava River . We will have a short sightseeing tour including the extensive Castle complex which is the second largest in the Czech Republic and then some free time for lunch , shopping or simply to relax at an outdoor café. Late afternoon a short drive to the town of Ceske Budejovice which was founded in 1265 and is most famous for the Budvar ( Budweiser ) Beer. We will have a chance to try the beer tonight at dinner. Overnight in Ceske Budejovice. ( B , D )

Prague - August 27, 2010

2010-08-24T04:47:00.000-07:00

We took a long walk over the Charles Bridge through Prague after visiting a castle and Cathedral high on a hill. The bus dropped us off and all 24 of us listened to history of both places and then walked back.

Although we skipped the part of walking up the 160 steps in the castle, we still had a spectacular view of the many red tiled roofs and buildings topped with onion domes we still had to walk down a mere 213 cobble stone and brick steps. The people on the bus have segregated into type of like interests. Frank, Ted, Dolores and I are concerned with too many steps for our knees, but we all made it reluctantly.

There are women with similar names. Two are named Jean, a Jane and of course a Joyce - the 4 J's. One of the Jean's mentioned that the red roofs are called thigh tiles as the men that make them lay the flat tiles on their thighs for the shape. Not sure if that is really true.

The walk down the steps had delightful shops on every landing. By the time we reached the Charles Bridge I was ready for the watercolors and jewelery sellers. It is so fun to find inexpensive items that supposedly are hand made and different.

Street Musicians in Prague by the Castle

Street Musicians in front of the Castle - Prague

Calliope on the Charles Bridge - Prague Czech Republic

Back to the square with the clock tower. I was right there when the wooden disciples opened the door above the clock and paraded by for all the tourists enjoyment. This time camera was on.

Right after the strike of one o'clock the clouds burst open and rains poured down. Stan and I slipped into an covered outdoor cafe for a bowl of soup, delicious dark European bread and beer.

The rains subsided and out came the people to fill the square. There is an international folk festival going on here. I took snippets of the music as we walked with some of the dancers and muscians. We saw them carrying flags from Turkey, Greece, Italy, Spain, Mexico, Belgium and Serbia.

I have about 30 snippets of videos from the dancers and musicians playing that I upladed to YouTube.com. Check it out - JoyceKropewnicki or listed under Prague.

Here is one sample of music. It was a frenzy of happy people.

FRI , AUGUST 27 - PRAGUE
After breakfast we will will start our tour of “The Towers of Prague”. Where we will go on top of the Prague Castle Tower, 160 steps, and enjoy the fantastic view of the whole city and then visit the famous St. Vitus Church and walk down through Nerudova Street to Mala Strana (Lesser Town); we will cross the famous Charles Bridge and through The King’s Way where we will reach the Old Town Square.
Lunch on your own and some time at leisure, Dinner with folklore and music. Overnight in Prague. ( B , D)

Prague - Czech Republic - 8-26-2010 and 8-27-2010

2010-08-24T04:24:00.000-07:00

8-25-2010 Our trip to Poland and other interesting places in Europe.

It takes a day to get out of the good ol’e USA. Starting at 8 am in Denver we slide through the ticket counter happy to check a bag without the usual $25 charge. The carry-on became annoyingly heavy carrying it through security, trains and other long corridors.

United was friendlier then I have seen recently. At least it only took 15 minutes or so to get through the ticket counter.

Chicago only takes a couple of hours but crowded flights and cramped conditions still take their toll on older bodies.

The flight from Chicago to Warsaw Poland was a long 9 hours. Stan was the lucky one in the middle seat. At first we hoped for an empty seat in the middle, but soon the plane filled up to the brim. A women sat down next to Stan and proceeded to talk, talk, talk. She was traveling back through Poland and spoke in very broken English. She told him immediately that she was going back to the Czech-Republic to visit the hospital there as the hospital in her home town of Dallas Texas was too expensive. She holds a passport from the Ukraine but had lived in the USA for years with her family.

So she says her reason for her hospital visit was being attached by two pit bull dogs from the next door neighbor. She probably weighs about 90 pounds and a fierce wind could blow her over. Imagine a couple of meanly trained pit bulls. The dogs were put down - thank goodness she didn’t show Stan her injuries. She’s probably lucky to be alive.

She mentioned that the neighbor is a drug dealer from Mexico. Bars on the windows attest to the fortification of the place. There was no secret to his easy dirty money that was easy to spend. Boxes and boxes of goods and upscale furniture were delivered day in and day out purchased with those dirty dollars. The police had watched this neighbor for over 8 months and finally arrested him. Of course he offered them $200,000 to turn their back and let him return back to Mexico. He was found guilty and is in jail for over 25 years.

The stories went on and on until I switched places with Stan to give him a break. She interrupted my movie watching once by talking loudly to the person in the seat behind. I’m not shy about telling her to keep it down.

We finally arrived in Warsaw, Poland and escaped the chatter of Stan’s seat neighbor. We can’t read Polish and/or signs were limited so we had to go through security twice. It is a maze and if you don’t go through proper passport control you just can’t get to the gates. I have that shoe, bag of liquids and computer thing down pat. Speaking of that – a few people did get a little pat down.
Next plane trip to Prague is another 3 hour wait in the terminal. The flight was only an hour to Prague. Small plane, leather seats, lots of leg room made napping easy. This is really old time flying. They served a delicious sandwich, wine and a winner smile.

I talked to the tour guide and found that the 160 steps up some ancient castle were exchanged for a more modest view of the city. Thank goodness. My knees were sure planning to miss at least 130 of those steps.

I was happy I changed into my extra clothes I brought in the carry-on as sure enough city tour right as we are busing in from the airport. A quick rest at the lovely hotel with 15 foot tall ceiling situated on the edge of old town Prague and then walking tour of the area. Beautiful old building loaded with carvings centuries old, un-scathed from the ravages of war like many other European countries, they stand tall today.

We waited in front of an old clock tower for the chimes to ring on the hour. Doors open and wooden disciples pass by for that touists deight. I posed the video camera and carefully recorded the moment. After the 20 second opening and trumpet playing from the top of the tower, I noticed I forgot to turn on the camera.

Clock Tower = no chiming

People are friendly. Stan noticed scantily dressed attractive women. No observable American disease - obesity. Our bus friends on the trip are all from Canada so politic chatting will be kept to a minimum.

Older buildings well kept although some show their aging from the environment changing the stone to a dark color. Streets are clean. Riding the bus through town showed us modern transportation systems of uncrowded roadways. The trolleys that meander through the old town was filled with people, but not packed with stress as you see in some cities. On many street corners you see Iphones, and other personal devised, but clearly people were engaged with each other not necessarily their devices.

Prague - dinner music from a strolling accordionist

Prague - Czech folk dancers

Prague - Czech folk dancers

Here is the itinerary

WED, AUGUST 25 – Departure from Toronto / New York / Chicago on overnight transatlantic to Prague

THU , AUGUST 26 - PRAGUE
Early afternoon arrival in Prague. Transfer to hotel and check-in. We will later meet for a short walking tour before dinner : The Old Town Square is the most significant square of historical Prague. It originated in the 12th century. We will see the Church of Our Lady before Tyn, the baroque St. Nicholas church, the Stone Bell house – a gothic city palace from the 14th century and the Memorial to Master Jan Hus. Also we will view the tower which bears a unique astronomical clock from the year 1410 which shows the statues of 12 apostles at every hour between 9 am to 9 pm. Welcome Dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight in Prague. ( B , D )

Boston New Years Day 1-1-2010

2010-01-02T04:43:00.000-08:00

Stan and I are visiting our Grand daughter, Anya, age 14 months, and her parents. While she took a nap, we took a ride downtown to see the ice sculptures that were created for the New Year's celebration.

People were ice skating in the park and enjoying the crisp weather. Boston is such and interesting place with its vibrante downtown and community spirit.

Frog Pond at Boston Common 1-1-2010

Poland - People on bus and hotels 10-8-09

2009-10-08T21:03:00.000-07:00

Our trip to Poland would not be complete without acknowledging the great people we meet who toured with us for two weeks.

Here are a few photos of our group.

Be sure to stop and smell the roses along the way.

Food and Hotels in Poland

Dancing in Poland

Sydney dancing in Poland

Jeff is the center of attention

Krakow Poland Oct 8, 2009

2009-09-27T14:16:00.001-07:00

Friday 10-8-09

We had such a busy emotional day going to Auschwitz first and then the Salt Mines.

After Auschwitz, we all wanted some time to gather our thoughts and return life to some semblance of order. We stopped off at a nearby gas station which had a charming restaurant next door. I barely caught the name of the restaurant on the side of the building as we drove off as Goscinic Restaurant. The reason I wanted to remember it was that I had the best cheese and potato pierogies topped with caramelized onions, garlic and parsley that I had on the entire trip. Many meals included plates of pierogies, but none compared to those tasty morsels. Stan had borscht (beet) soup which was equally delicious.

Here are some photos from the Wieliczka Salt Mines. We were 3 levels down.

Next stop on this long day was the Wieliczka Salt Mine. It really didn’t know what to expect. I heard from my Mother-in-Law, Alice that she had to climb down many ladders when she visited Poland. She might have exaggerated about the ladders. I figured we would we visiting some type of factory view of the excavation of salt.

We waited patiently for the elevators that were to take us down a few levels of the nine level salt mine. We all crowded into the cage. I do mean crowded, body to body. Once down, the doors of the elevators were odd in that they opened on a different side and the people in front of them had to crowd even more so the doors would open. Very cozy.

We had heard from the tour guide that the salt was more black and grey then white like what we know from our table salt. The color is due to the impurities in the material. We walked through cheerfully lit tunnels noticing the dark walls and crystalline white veins from the salt on parts of the ceilings. We walked on smooth dark blocks which must also be salt. The temptation to lick your finger and wipe it on the smooth wall’s surface showed sure enough it was salt.

We came to the first exhibit and what do you know? This was not about the factory view of the excavation of salt, but art – sculptures made of the dark grey salt material that had been carved, not by artists, but by workers in the salt mines. They were amazingly well-lighted in the high caves of the mine. We walked through more tunnels into more enchanting rooms filled with salt sculptures.

Down flights of stairs to the most beautiful ballroom with giant chandeliers with delicate shaped crystal brilliantly set to light up the room. Relief sculptures were carved into the salt along the walls. The floors were polished to a rich patina. The whole room was salt, including the crystals in the chandeliers. It was breath taking.

I was finished at that point. More stairs. More sculptures. It was over the top. We meandered through long expanses of tunnels and about 425 steps down. My knees did pretty well for that many steps. This is truly a must see if visiting Krakow Poland.

In the evening we went across the street from the Salt Mine for dinner. We had soup served in a bowl of bread with a lid that had a bread button. The dessert was delightful - Raspberry mousse with ice cream. We were entertained all evening by folk dancers. This included some of us dancing along with the professional entertainers. This really topped off the evening and vacation.

Here is a sampling of the folk dancers we heard at dinner.

Itineary (changes to include Auschwitz and Salt Mine on the same day):

Morning at leisure for last minute shopping & packing .
2.30 pm. Meet in the lobby of hotel to depart by bus for Wieliczka
3.30 pm. Sightseeing of Wieliczka Salt Mines

6.00pm. Farewell dinner in Wieliczka at “ Karczma Halit “ with folklore .
Return to Krakow for overnight.

Krakow Poland Oct 8, 2009

2009-09-27T14:16:00.000-07:00

10-7-09 Krakow
We walked through the city square in Krakow through one of the biggest churches connected to many others through archways with expansive domes on Wawel Hill. From the outside it is beautiful with one shiny golden dome glistening in the sun light and others in copper, rich with patina of time. Inside are the most elaborate items I have seen. As one example, there is a crypt with ornate designs and sculptures formed in the silver. No photos allowed and I couldn’t find any postcards. This was amazing.

At Krakow’s main square we went into a 13th century St. Mary’s Basilica to see the once a day opening of the altar doors at noon. This is a church styled in Gothic architecture. For once I opt’d out of taking any photos for 5 zloty’s ($1.50) as I just wanted to enjoy the experience.

There was no Mass going on, just tourists sitting on benches looking at the designs, carvings and massive ceilings of this magnificent place. Every wall was covered with some kind of design; painted in deep jewel colors. I especially noticed the wide navy and gold ornate painted pillars going up to the ceiling that split off with the same design into smaller units to follow the arches of the ceiling. This reminds me of the details that were in the Ken Follet books – “Pillars of the Earth” or “World without End” that described building of cathedrals in the 13th century.

I looked to my left at the painted wooden relief sculptures that were about three foot square. The details were intricate. These sculptures lined the walls depicting Bible scenes.

The Veit Stoss altar carried this same theme to a higher level. These sculptures were thirty foot high (35 feet by 40 feet) with twelve multiple panels. They were so large that even from our seats we could see the details clearly. At noon the music started and the ceremony began. A nun walked regally to the altar and reaching up using a pole slowly opened the altar doors one at a time. More sculpted panels on the sides and larger than life golden sculptures in the center were revealed. Chills ran down my spine.
Every square inch of walls and ceilings were covered with paintings or sculptures. Stained glass panels lined the sides of the altar. These were made in the 13th century. It is amazing that this cathedral stands after so many centuries of turmoil in Poland. Treasures from the past are significant when you compare it to the throw-away society we have today. Krakow was one city that was saved the ravages of bombings during World War II.

After the door opening ceremony we went outside to wait in the courtyard for the trumpet player who played out of windows of the steeple toward the east, west, north and south. That pattern of the song was cut short each time to signify ancient days when the budge player was shot with an arrow mid song. It sure seemed an impossible feat to shot an arrow up that high to the top of the steeple. The trumpet is played every hour on the hour every day.

Horse driven carriages carried people around the square on this balmy October day. Muscians played tunes and children flocked in the courtyard.

We stopped to hear an accordion player with his wife on the bass. He played us the Star Spangled Banner once he learned we were Americans.

The first evening we walked a few blocks from the Hotel to Resauracja Mieszczanska. I don’t remember much about the food except that it was delicious a usual. It was very cozy and gave us all a chance to relax in a beautiful setting.

Walk through Wawel Hill, St. Mary's Church and the Old Town Square in Krakow Poland.

Iteneary:
10-7-09
9.00 am. Sightseeing of Krakow including Wawel Hill, Collegium Maius , St Mary’s Church and the fabulous

Old Town Square featuring the famous “ Cloth Hall ”.
1.00 pm. Lunch at a local restaurant “C.K. Dezerter”.

Remainder of the day free to further explore this beautiful city

10-8-09

Morning at leisure for last minute shopping & packing .
2.30 pm. Meet in the lobby of hotel to depart by bus for Wieliczka
3.30 pm. Sightseeing of Wieliczka Salt Mines

6.00pm. Farewell dinner in Wieliczka at “ Karczma Halit “ with folklore .
Return to Krakow for overnight.

Auschwitz - Krakow Poland Oct 7, 2009

2009-09-27T14:15:00.000-07:00

This entry is about the sad concentration camps at Auschwitz, Poland.

Here are some photos of Auschwitz Poland. We were not allowed to take photos inside the buildings.

Auschwitz

We stepped off the bus and quietly gathered in the lobby of the Auschwitz museum. The smell of death hung heavy in the air. A quick stop at the restroom where we paid 1 zloty (35 cents) for the use of a spotless toilet was a contrast to the conditions we would see that the victims of the death camps experienced.

We took our tickets and a head phone with battery pack that was used throughout the tour of the camps so the guide could let us know the history in English. It made the experience even more introspective as you could listen to the guide from quiet a distance away and still view the area. The place is a very somber experience as this is the largest cemetery in the world where 1.5 million people were killed brutally by gas, burned, shot or staved to death.

The guide would explain what we would be seeing in the brick buildings that were once the confined sleeping quarters for the prisoners and then we would walk single file through the buildings. Other visitors gathered through-out the grounds listening intently to their guides. Many groups of children ages 12 and up were also visiting the camps. It is a requirement for all Polish children to visit.

Once we viewed the double barbed wire fences and a large black and white photo of the band who welcomed the prisoners we went inside the first building to see some more photos and learn more about how this atrocity happened. We could take photos on the grounds, but none inside. At such a sobering experience it was more personal and something that maybe one didn’t want to snap a photo. I did have the thought about what they might be hiding inside that we couldn’t photograph as this is such an important event that no one should question the reality of it happening.

The camps were first set up for Polish intellectuals and leaders who were causing trouble in Poland to quiet them. Then Hitler had this as a solution to the Jewish problem in the Polish ghettos in Warsaw and Jews from other countries that had gathered in Poland. His solution was to exterminate them. The Germans murdered 1,000 people a day.

People were sent to the camps in crowded rail cars. They were told lies about jobs being available and spas for relaxing, when in fact the purpose for the camps was to kill them. The Germans sorted the people into group. One group was immediately sent to death. They were told to take off their clothes for a clean shower and then a large dinner when in fact they were stripped of their clothes and marched to the death chambers. The other group became the workers in the camps.

One building we entered hung heavy with the smell of items almost seventy years old from 1940 to 2009. We walked silently by display cases of two tons of human hair that had been ripped or cut off the heads of the victims. Every color of hair was mixed in a tangled mess. This hair had been removed from some of the bags that the German’s had prepared for sale by the gram. According to our guide many of the buildings housing the materials confiscated from the victims were burned when the war ended to hide the evidence.

Another building had rooms with display cases with piles of glasses, another room with a twenty foot display case of shoe, clothes or hair brushes and pile of toothbrushes. One room had a twenty or thirty foot display case of shoes. Looking at every style of men’s, women’s and children’s shoes knowing that they individuals had been stripped of their hopes and dreams and suffered an unconscionable death, brought sadness to your heart.

We gathered outside the buildings with our own thoughts. A little girl age 12 in our group was waiting for her Mom to come out. I went to her and express my feelings of sadness.
She said she had read about Auschwitz at school, but seeing it in person brought the reality of the event to light.

Another building showed us the prisons and small areas of confinement. One room about 3 feet by 3 feet was used to torture the prisoners. Many people (about 9) were crowded into those small rooms and made to stand up, body-to-body for days at a time with only a small opening about the size of a folded sheet of notebook paper at the top of the room for air.

Sleeping conditions crowded 16 or more people on filthy straw in units stack like bunk bed no bigger than a double bed. Another camp we visited showed the horrible sanitary conditions the people endured with open pit toilet only inches from each other. People had but 10 seconds to take care of their business before they had to go out and work long days with little or no food.

We went into the gas chambers and in my mind I heard the screams of the dying victims of this mass murder. Another room was used to burn the victims. Black soot was apparent on the roof of this room.

This was a sad experience to visit these camps, but one that was necessary to put things in perspective. Hitler was a charismatic leader with many blind followers. For me it is always important to question charismatic people and activities.

Itineary:

An optional excursion to Auschwitz can be arranged ( additional cost )
Overnight in Krakow.

Zakopane – Dunajec River Rafting – Ludzmierz – Krakow Poland Tuesday 10-6-06

2009-09-27T14:14:00.000-07:00

10-5-09 Bus ride from Solvakia to Zaopane. Dinner at U Zieby

The small villages are filled with interesting houses and steep roofs. Trees are packed with apples and beautiful flower gardens are common place. We all stopped at the sign at the border to snap a photo as no passports are stamped when you pass between countries. The rugged peaks of the Tetra mountains are in view from rolling meadows.

The kiosks along the Zakopane walkway had rows and rows of carts and tables of smoked cheese packed tightly into cylinder than rooled through a pattern so the cheese had interesting designs. This is a goat or sheep cheese. The first time we bought some it tasted a little dry and the texture was crumbly, but edible never the less. We had some fresh from a farmer that was really good and not crumbly. It is smoked and smelly, but delicious.

River rocks are collected and then used as a decoration on the bottom foundations of homes. Patterns are formed using large and smaller rocks. As an example, you might have a row or two of small rocks and then another row of large rocks. Each house is a little different.

In the evening right outside of Zakopane we had dinner at U Zieby. What an evening. We all sat at a long table with a band of musician right in front of us. They were dressed in local costumes that included white felt pants with embroidery decorating the front where the pants button up and on each side of the calf was a red pompom. They wore crème colored shirts with a decorative pin in the center of the collar.

The carrage drivers also wore these same clothes. They also wore a wide brimmed hat similar to the shape upside down of a bowl with a big lip.

The many courses of the meal were served family style. The first platters were slices of lightly browned smoked cheese that we topped with fresh cranberry sauce. Several types of cabbage and carrot salads were passed around. Shredded carrots generally have a little sugar and horseradish. Main course included Golabki (the biggest cabbage leaves I’ve seen stuffed with rice and meat), pierogie (pasta half moos each stuffed with different fillings such as cheese, mushrooms, potato and cheese or meat) along with large servings of breaded pork and potatoes. Dessert was cake layered with apples. How decedent was this meal?

As a vegetarian I was served crepes filled with ricotta type cheese topped with blueberries. Yummy.

The musician played local songs. It was like you might hear mountain man blue grass with pizzazz. They were excellent musicians playing accordion, fiddle and bass. The fiddle player sang the melody with a voice so clear and high the roof could have lifted. I understand that some tenor / alto singers don’t eat or drink any dairy to keep their voices crystal clear. The highlight of the evening was when John Gora and Hank Guzevich joined them along with their friend Jerry who was celebrating his 50th wedding anniversary in Poland. The music exploded with intensity with this group of talented musicians.

We topped of the evening outside with a roaring bonfire.

Tuesday October 6, 2009
We stopped for a five mile raft ride through a gorge on the Dunajec River. Four long flat bottom canoes were buckled together. Pine boughs decorated the front to keep the water from splashing into the canoe raft. We sat on a three rows of benches with fold up back rests, four people across as two local Polish men in bright colored embroidered blue vests used long poles to move us through the river.

The treat of our raft trip was being serenaded by Hank playing trumpet and John Gora playing accordion. Those tunes are still resonating through my brain. It was such a beautiful sunny day with the leaves just changing with the hint of fall color.

Hank Guzevich and John Gora entertained us as we floated down the Dunajec Rive in Ludzmierz Poland 10-6-09

After the raft trip and a leisurely lunch we headed toward Krakow. On the way we stopped at the church that houses Our Lady of Luzmierz, an important statue of the Virgin Mary and child. This is one of the churches that Pope John Paul II stopped at for services. There is an expansive park behind the church with the Stations of the Cross, many marble statues and an outdoor altar. It was truly beautiful. There is a naturally spring with water with healing powers. We all splashed a handful from the pump and drank a few sips.

Walking along the country road in this quiet neighborhood next to the church we came upon a cemetery. There was a young heifer and cow chained to the ground grazing in a field of grass. The farmer moves the chain from time to time as the grass is eaten. There are no fences in this area. Many of our group confused the cow for a bull s the cow had long black horns. Once she stood up we realized he was a she.

The cemetery stones are large with a granite rectangular shape in front of the stone filled with flowers such a marigolds. It was a very colorful site.

Dunajec River Rafting and Church grounds where Pope John Paul II visited. Church houses the famous figurine of Our Lady of Ludzmierz.

Here is the iteniary:
Morning departure from Zakopane .

11.00am. River rafting on the Dunajec River ( weather permitting ).

Stop for lunch ( not included ).

Continue to Krakow with stop to visit the Church housing the famous figurine of Our Lady of Ludźmierz.

Arrive Krakow and check in to the Novotel Centrum Hotel.
7.00pm . Dinner at “Mieszczanska” restaurant.

Zakopane – Slovakia Poland Monday Oct 5, 2009

2009-09-27T14:12:00.000-07:00

Sunday 10-4-09 Zakopane to Slovakia for a swim

Hank Guzevich is a great trumpet player. He is the leader of a fun polka band - Polka Family Band. The band plays all over the country. He is also an accomplished classical trumpet player which he learned on his own by playing and talking with people about music.

One evening after dinner we walked down the colorful streets of Zakopane. Music spilled out from the doorways of small cafes and larger restaurants. Musicians played Polish mountain music which included an accordion or a couple of fiddles and bass violin or cello. It was fast paced. Strong voices sang verse after verse of songs to mesmerize the people listening.

These places had open fires cooking pork or beef turning slowly on a spits along with juicy sausage. Potatoes were wrapped in tin foil and baked along with the meats. The bars poured glasses of beer. Zywiec (pronounced jgyviets) is the most popular brand.

Few people dance along with the music as it is mostly for listening. Those who do dance in these crowded bars, dance with such quick steps to track the music that it is almost a blur to watch their feet.

The restaurant one evening - Bakowa Zohylina had five musicians playing interesting music created from influences of Polish, Slavic, Hungarian and Russian sometimes at the same time. One violin took the lead and a couple other violins played melodies round the lead player. The bass violin kept the beat while a piano shaped dolcimar whipped out another beat and melody. Interesting creative and fun. Polish mountain music jazz.

Food was serviced on blond unfinished tables and included ham, lamb, fried potatoes and several polish salads; cucumber, tomato, carrot and of course dill pickles. Desserts were delights of small pieces of cheesecakes, blueberry (blue through and through) cake and cakes with layers of apple. The drink this evening was mountain tea that included high octane spirits.

On Monday 10-5-09 we took a short 7 -8 mile drive to the countryside outside of Zakopane to Cho Cholow to look through a humble museum depicting how people of Poland lived at about the turn of the century. We saw spinning wheels and great large wooden vats about four foot across used to make up sauerkraut. The small single bed was shared by husband and wife. A cradle hang above the bed from ropes for the baby.

In the next room was a father (Jan Zieden) and son carving wood. We are all creched -up now with the most delightful carved music box. Hope it makes it back home.

Off to Slovakia on Monday 10-5-09
We went across the border to Slovakia to the Meadows which is a water park right at the base of a ski area. For 10 Euros ($15) you can play all day or at least a couple of hours. We debated whether to go or not and finally decided to throw caution to the wind and pay the fee to enter. They gave you a plastic bracelet that is used on the scanner to determine your locker # and open and close the assign locker as well as run charges when buying food at the snack bar. Very high tech for me as I haven't been to a water park since they gave us a pin we pinned on our swim suit and a basket to hold our clothes.

These locker rooms re co-ed. Europeans are not as modest as Americans. Some just change right by the lockers. Americans load up the lockers with stuff, grab their swim suit and rush shyly to the changing rooms. Aren't we silly really? Then lock the rest our clothes back up and off to the pools.

Bubbles are everywhere timed like a symphony. The four and a half foot deep poll has a part built so you can lay down on slanted tiles while the bobbles come on. It is a delight for the body.

The next pool was filled with different minerals rich with sulfur supposedly good for the joints. My knees and hands feel fine so maybe it did some good.

There is also a big wave pool and one for swimming laps. The slide was off today as it is at the end of the season.

The small villages are filled with interesting houses and steep roofs.

U Zieby restaurant had the best food and great music

Itineary:

Excursion to Slovak Republic. Don’t forget your bathing suit !!

Day to relax and enjoy the benefits of the hot springs in Oravice.

Afternoon return to Zakopane . Free time to purchase some local souvenirs .

7.00 pm . Dinner at “U Zieby “ with bon-fire & polka party !

Zakopane Poland Sunday 10-4-09

2009-09-27T14:11:00.000-07:00

10-3-09 Saturday
On Saturday we left Wrocraw and headed toward Zakapane. We stopped on the way at Wadowice at the home that Pope John Paul II was born. Right before he was born his mother asked to open the windows so the church bells next door would be the first thing that this little baby heard. Now this humble home is set up as a museum to John Paul II with things from his early life like ski equipment and in his later years robes from when he was a priest, Biship, Cardinal then Pope’s robe. There were photos of John Paul tastefully displayed from his early years up through did death. This certainly helped to remind us all the good he did during his life time toward peace on earth.

We had lunch a little outside of Wadowice. They were just getting ready for a wedding that afternoon in this old restaurant with high ceilings and rooms being readied for the afternoon event. We sat at tables that looked like they were set for the reception with white satin table clothes. They served us soup in small cauldrons hanging from wrought iron with a burning flame in the small metal about the size of a fifty cent piece right below the pot. Soups are filling and tasty in Poland. Stan and I had mushroom while others had the typical Polish soup with hardboiled egg, potato and sausage. The treat at the end of the meal was a piece of Pope’s cake, his favorite dessert. This was thin layers of crispy crust similar to flakey filo, but more dense filled with a custard type whipped chiffon spiked with that tasty eggnog liqueur. Rich and delicious.

As we were eating the band started to set up for the wedding. Our band friends, John and Hank couldn’t sit still. Out to the band in a grand hall they went with their instruments to ask if they could play. Hank took out his trumpet and they let him read their music which was the wedding march. He played along in his unique talented style. Next song he blew them away with such a grand sound in this acoustical dream room. They asked him if he wanted to stay and play the wedding with them. The treat of the afternoon.

On to a church at the Sanctuary at Kalwaria Zebrydowska, a UNESCO Heritage site. By now we are in a more mountainous area. The walk up the many steps and long somewhat steep pathway was a bit much to keep going without stopping. The view from the top was breathtaking overlooking the fields and meadows below. They had Mass going on, so we waited for a while behind the altar, which seemed to be as decorated and altar like as the real alter. This church was different; in that people worshipped facing the side alter instead of the front altar. I never really understand all the symbols and ornate pictures, altars, gilded gold, statues, and other over-the-top decorations that Catholics use in their churches.

After I walked down toward the bus I stopped at the bottom of the hill to buy a fresh made circle of bread like a pretzels with no “tzel” from a local vendor. Others picked up what we learned was smoked cheese made locally. I tasted a little that day and found it to be flavorful, but a bit crumbly. Later in the trip I found out that this is really a common product sold in this region. Fresher, it is delicious.

Sunday 10-4-09 Zakopane Poland

We drove through beautiful country side that changed from flat lands to rolling hills, then mountains. The town is full of charm as any other ski resort in the world. We walked down the cobblestone path passing by trendy stores sporting winter parkas and hats just waiting for the winter crowd to come. Youngster eagerly stomped by with mountain climbing gear on their backs as they headed toward tall mountains in the distance. The tetra peaks are right outside our window. In silhouette they look like a man lying down on his back. On top his chin you can just see the outline of a cross.

We walked to the Catholic Church at the end of the street to go to a Polish mass. It was packed with people as we stood quietly in the back. The Polish words went on and on and I understood less and less. I had plenty of time to look around at the rich deep colors in the stained glass in similar patterns as one uses in quilts with stars and triangles. Others depicted scenes of life or of a religious nature. They are all richly beautiful with the sun shinning brightly through the many colors. Panels of frescos were painted along the top of the arches of the cathedral. The characters looked so real in soft colors that complimented the rest of the decorations in the church. The altar was a busy looking place and so far away that I was unable to really take a look. I did notice a statue of Jesus hanging on a cross at the very top of the rafters of the church above the four ornate chandeliers.

The hotel (Glewont Hotel) we are saying is a contrast to others of late. Similarly they have down feather covers that keep you extra warm at night. Amenities are a bit short in supply here as the rooms look more like a hostel dorm room setting. We all have our own rooms, but I could see this working for several college age students to stay here while visiting the many outdoor activities like hiking, skiing and partying.

The grand eating area is filled with porcelain chandeliers hanging gallantly from the ceiling. A grand piano was played by a maestro - Jacek Makowski, in perfect classical style through the evening. He entertained us and then Hank, our trumpet player, and John, played a few tunes. They couldn’t match the class of the Maestro. Finally, Hank and Jacek (piano master) had a play off. Classical piano, then a classical trumpet. It was great music. Jacek was a master piano concert pianist in his twenties. He is not age 74. Now he plays for tips at local restaurants in the evenings. He had so many pieces he played for us from start to end with feeling way beyond just the notes.

Jacek Makowski - age 74 Zakopane Poland

Hank Guzevich (Polka Family Band)- Trumpet player taking turns with the piano master

Jacek Makowski - age 74 Zakopane Poland

We went for a ride to a nearby wooden church in near Chocholow Poland. This one room church was built in the mountains out of wood with no nail. The carvings were very interesting. We also stopped at an other church that was also wooden and very modern. It is amazing the intereting carvings along the walls of this church.

Itinerary (no cable ride):
After breakfast, we will go to morning mass at a local church , followed by sightseeing of Zakopane . A cable car ride to the top of Gubalowka Hill will give you a wonderful panorama of the surrounding mountain scenery.

Further sightseeing of the Podhale region visiting :
Chocholow – live open air museum of fine wooden architecture.
Jaszczurowka – wooden chapel. Rest of afternoon free time .
7.00pm Dinner at “Bakowa Zohylina”.

Wroclaw – Zakopane Poland Saturday 10-3-2009

2009-09-27T14:09:00.000-07:00

10-2-09 Wroclaw (Vrosswaf)

Friday 10-2-09 we visited one painting in a large round building in Wroclaw (pronounced Vrosswaf). At first we thought it odd to worry about getting tickets a head of time and to be sure to have everyone there on time. It was a sight to see. The Panorama of one painting of the battle of Raclawice was amazing. It was so realistic it seemed like you were right in the midst of the battle field as the painting was completed in the round. Be sure to get an English translation personal radio receiver to add to the experience. The horses deep in battle were galloping through the senses and seemed to snort in real time as they carried soldiers to battle, This is a must see if you are ever in Wroclaw.

We stayed at Sofitel Hotel which was a half a block from the main square. Feather beds and down feather comforters were like sleeping on a cloud as soft as marshmallows. Dinner in the square at Restauria Dwar Poliski included tenderloin beef rolled around a tasted filling. My soup was onion with creamy cheese melted on top. I had thin crispy wrappers around delicious vegetables in a stew type sauce. We had layered cake generously filled with whipped cream, caramelized apples then drenched in a tasty liquor they call eggnog flavor.

There is an Olympic stadium that was built, but there were never any Olympic games played in Poland. They were moved to Berlin instead. Now it is used for a speedway.

If you look at one of the districts (communities) from the air, it looks like an eagle.

In 1944 people of other countries felt the pressure to flee to Poland. Wroclaw received over one million people from all over with the Soviets coming first. So many people filled the area that people who couldn’t fight (women, children) were ordered to leave the city. While gone, their valuables were confiscated. Many walked southwest through one of the most severe winters and died from the cold or starved to death. Over seven hundred, fifty thousand or one-fifth of the populations died at that time. The soviets locked the city in siege and took the airport from the Germans. The Germans created their own airport in another part of town by leveling buildings to make way. Only one plane ever landed at this new airport. By May of 1945 over 65% of the city was destroyed. It took a long time to rebuild the city. As an example, in 1951 the city was still covered in rubble.

Wroclaw Sofitel Hotel and visit to Pope John Paul II's home in WWadowice with lunch at a nearby restaurant just setting up for a wedding.

Hank Guzevich from the Polka Family Band playing with musicians setting up for a wedding near Wadowice Poland 10-3-09

Sunday 10-4-09 Zakopane Poland
We drove through beautiful country side that changed from flat lands to rolling hills then mountains. The town is full of charm and any other ski resort on the world. We walked down the cobblestone path passing by trendy stores sporting winter parks and hats just waiting for the winter crowd to come. Youngster eagerly stomped by with mountain climbing gear on their backs as they headed toward tall mountains in the distance. The tetra peaks are right outside our window. In silhouette they look like a man lying down on his back. On top his chin you can just see the outline of a cross.

We walked to the Catholic Church at the end of the street to go to a Polish mass. It was packed with people as we stood quietly in the back. The Polish words went on and on and I understood less and less. I had plenty of time to look around at the rich deep colors in the stained glass in similar patterns as one uses in quilts with stars and triangles. Others depicted scenes of life or of a religious nature. They are all richly beautiful with the sun shinning brightly through the many colors. Panels of frescos were painted along the top of the arches of the cathedral. The characters looked so real is soft colors that complimented the rest of the decorations in the church. The alter was a busy looking place and so far away that I was unable to really take a look. I did notice a statue of Jesus hanging on a cross at the very top of the rafters of the church above the four ornate chandeliers.
The hotel we are saying at is a contrast to others of late. Similarly they have down feather covers that keep you extra warm at night. Ammenities are a bit short in supply here as the rooms look more like a hostel dorm room setting. We all have our own rooms, but I could see this working for several college age students to stay here while visiting the many outdoor activities like hiking, sking and partying.

The grand eating area is filled with porcelain chandiers hanging gallantly from the ceiling. A grand piano was played by a mistro in perfect classical style through the evening. He entertained us and then Hank, our trumpet player, and John, played a few tunes. Then Hank and the Master piano player, Jacek Makowski age 74, had a great play off. Jacek was the master for all of Poland in his 20's. Now he plays for tips at local restaurants in Zakopane. What a treat to hear both Hank and Jacek play throughout the evening.

Hank Guzevich trumpet player from the Polka Family Band

John Gora dancing while Jacek Makowski plays the piano with grand style

Itinerary
Morning departure for Zakopane via Wadowice , the birthplace of John Paul II .
We will have free time for a snack /lunch (not included). Why not try a “kremowka”, John Paul’s favorite dessert . Our next stop will be the Sanctuary at Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, a UNESCO Heritage site.

Continue to Zakopane for dinner and overnight at the Giewont Hotel .

Wroclaw Poland Friday October 2, 2009

2009-09-27T14:08:00.000-07:00

Wroclaw Poland

10-2-09 Friday Wroclaw pronounced Vrotswaf
The bus trip from the palace where we slept to Wroclaw was tedious through crowded two lane highways. Our guide, Eva, had a lot to say about the collective farms that were run under communistic rule. She claimed people sat and did nothing but ask for handouts from the few who were working hard. They would ask for food and money, but put in no effort to grow their own garden to feed their families.

This seems to be dichotomy from the descriptions and what we experienced in the rebirth of a nation from rubble of bombings to reconstruction of the beautiful cities we see today. Those proud Polish people who reconstructed the cities brick by brick had not faced the demoralization of communistic rule as welfare state. They reached into their depths to take it upon themselves with no government help or financial assistance from the Marshall plan that other European nations had to rebuild Poland on their own.

The change from communism to democracy / capitalistic system was difficult for Poland. To change people’s mentality was harder than expected and has taken about two generations to change people back to workers.

Along with potatoes, grains such as rye were grown for food and to produce vodka. Flax was grown to make linen and sugar beets for sugar. Vegetables included cabbages of several different kinds. Cabbages were made into sauerkraut to preserve through the winter months. Soups included carrots, parsley, leeks, celery roots, onions and garlic. We had some that the standard polish soup at a local restaurant for lunch. It was really delicious and had cut of pieces of boiled egg and pieces of sausage. I need to learn how to make this.

Itinerary:

Today we will be touring the beautiful city of Wroclaw . The city lies on the river Oder where the river branches forming twelve islands , giving Wroclaw the nickname “City of Bridges” .

There is much to see here and our visits will include : Old Town Market Square, Ostrow Tumski, Panorama of the Battle of Raclawice , and no visit would be complete without a visit to a Beer hall!!

Czarny Las – Wroclaw Thursday 10-1-2009

2009-09-27T14:07:00.000-07:00

On the road to Czestochowa to see the Black Madonna at the St Stanislaw Kostka Church, Hank Guzevich and John Gora entered us on the bus with trumpet and harmonica. It got even better when John changed to his instrument to a comb with a piece of paper like we did when we were kids.

More entertaining music while traveling on the bus through Poland.

That evening after a long drive we all unwound by playing pool and listening and singing along to music played by Hank and John. Our group drank vodka shots one evening just to keep the potato economy in Poland stimulated.

9-30-09 Czestochowa Poland
On the way to Czestachowa Poland to see the Black Madonna, Eva, our guide told of the many type of fruits and vegetables grown in Poland. Along with blueberries, cranberries and wild strawberries, three types of currents were available; white, red and dark purple. The blueberries are different from those we find in the stores in the US as they are also blue inside and make your teeth blue when you eat them. Poland is a big vodka producer. This is not a surprise as Poland is the largest potato producer in the world. Potatoes are a prime ingredient of vodka.

Photos of the Shrine of the Jasna Gora and home of the Black Madonna in Czestochowa. Also photos of the grounds at the palace we stay overnight at Palac Czarny Las in Wozniki.

Trees along the highway are heavy with apples. One evening at the palace we had an interesting dessert made with a half of a poached apple topped with custard sauce with some fresh raspberries in sauce dribbled through the custard. Yum.

Rolling fields meander over the country side with strips of corn layered next to beans with leaves just turning yellow with the chill of fall. Dairy farmers have really taken a hit lately where the milk prices are less than the cost of producing the products.

I understand that ownership of farms have changed over the years. At one time a three mile strip of land might be owned by one farmer and next to him another by his neighbor making up about 50 acres for each to farm. After World War II when the Soviets defeated the Germans in Poland, big farms were converted to government owned properties and community farmed under communist rule. This community farming didn’t work too well and farms were mostly unproductive as people didn’t have any incentive to really get going on the production. They had housing, heat and a paid job no matter what they did on the farm, so many did nothing to keep the land productive. All the Poland population were considered owners so every one subsidized collective unproductive farms.

Now those PTR (collective communist farms) were bought up by opportunist capitalist for a small percentage of their true value. Many sit with empty buildings and weed filled patches of land unsold and even more unproductive than when the government owned them.

Along the drive through the country windmills generating electricity are common place.
Finally, we arrived at the basilica to view the Black Madonna, dark due to the age of the painting, not the color of the skin. We reverently walked single file along a cordoned off path along the side of the inside of the church, then behind the alter through a narrow hallway and back out along the other side of the church. We could quietly and quickly look up at the painting of the Black Madonna above the alter. Looking up the eyes followed you as you walked quietly by. It was an interesting experience. There is no doubt that this ancient painting is revered and carries some special healing energy. I said a quick prayer just in case there was something to this legion. As we hugged the wall in single file it seemed a little disruptive to others who were worshiping during the mass, but I’m sure they have thought through this situation and found this is the best way to accommodate the needs of the tourists. August 15th there is a pilgrimage where hundreds of thousands walk from Warsaw to Czestochowa to see the Black Madonna and descend on the area.

Itinary for the day:
After breakfast departure for Wroclaw .

1.00 pm. Visit the Brzeg Castle . Built in the 13th century as the Renaissance residence of the Piast Royal Family.

Continue to Wroclaw with a short stop for lunch ( not included ) Arrival in Wroclaw and check in to the Sofitel Wroclaw Hotel Dinner at Restauracja Dwor Polski . Overnight.

Warsaw – Czestochowa – Czarny Las Wednesday 9-30-09

2009-09-27T14:05:00.000-07:00

9-29-09 Warsaw Poland
We had the most delightful time walking through Lazienki Park in Warsaw Poland. There were lakes with ducks cutting their path through the quiet water that meandered under the curve arched roadway bridges. The chestnut trees provided a shade over cobblestone pathways.
We dawned make shift covers over our shoes while walking though a king's palace

Warsaw 9-29-09

The cobblestone pathways are remarkablely constructed on semi-circular patterns like the finishing of a puzzle. We dawned make shift covers over our shoes while walking through a King’s palace that was full restored from a fire during World War II when it was burned by the enemy.
The ballroom was exquisite with a grand piano, ornate gold wainscoting and old with some restored oil paintings. It was delightful to view the magnificent for yester year.
It started raining, which didn’t dampen our spirits, but only added to the drama of being in a foreign country.

Lazienki Park, Town Square and Streets of Poland

We stopped a local pub for some soup and a beer. I tried their homemade apple pie. It might have been made in the kitchen, which was down a steep staircase to the cellar under the pub. It was good and hit the spot.
In the evening we had a delightful dinner at Karczma u Dedka with energetic folk dancers and a band with accordion, violin, clarinet and bass fiddle. The accordion was not the same type of button box that I’ve seen in the US, but had rows and rows of black and white buttons where you would see piano type keys or the popular 4 rows of buttons on the standard button-box accordion.
They danced and sang in a very professional rendition of all types of music; polka, oberek and polinesse.

Stan had his hand at cracking the whip. Not the winner of the contest, but good clean fun.
The Polish food was delicious. I had potato pancakes with flavorful mushroom gravy with several types of coleslaw. Stan had tender breaded turkey and lightly browned potato dumplings (similar to Italian gnocchi).
On Wednesday, 9-30-09, we finished up our tour of Warsaw. There have been so many wars between Poland and Russia.

Our guide, Eva, told the story of her uncle on her mother’s side that was captured by the Germans. He was instructed to walk through the forest to where they were shooting these people. In the fog he lost his way thus missing the massacre. He lived to as a witness to these atrocities.

In the north district of Warsaw a young priest who was born in 1947 worked in the parish at St Stanislaw Kostka’s church to help the Solidarity movement about 1980. In 1981 marshall law and physical fighing broke out when 10 million members of the union confronted the communist government. Jerzy Popieluszlo, the priest was instrumental in helping these workers once a month at a mass he said for the nation. His cry was that Good can fight evil (Wolnosc Jednose Milosc). He was captured / kidnapped by the secret service and then killed. Today a monument is set up at the church where he is buried. Daily arrangements are set around his grave and people still remember him after all these years.

There is so much significant history in Poland. The Jews had their problems in Europe that also were experienced in Poland. Poland had about 32 million people with 10% of them Jews. Hitler decided to fight the Jews in Poland by setting up a ghetto where he fenced them into this crowded area. These were Jews from other districts that were well educated as doctor, writers, actors. Five hundred thousand lived in a five square contained area, which was too crowded to keep out disease, starvation with no access to medication. Hitler refused to address this situation expect through extermination of the Jews in the ghetto of Poland. He built 13 gas chambers and took the lives of 1,000 Jews a day. We went to this ghetto where there is a monument to the ghetto Jews was erected where so many lost their lives.
Poland is a country of rejuvenation from the devastation of bombing in 1939 to rebirth and rebuilding of city centers and communities into vibrant cities once more. It is amazing when you see the ruble that was left buy the bombing from the German’s and the charm of Wasaw today.

Here are a few photos of the memorial to the Ghetto in Warsaw Poland and some other street scenes and the reconstructed city square.

One of our co-travelers visited Warsaw 8 years ago. A new blight had hit the city. Graffiti from Polish gang youngsters has spread through the city that just 8 years ago was graffiti free. It is a shame to see the old buildings that were so carefully restored tagged with youthful hatred and anger after their generation just before spent timeless hours restoring these buildings.

On a lighter note it is important to understand the history of places you visit but to also enjoy them. I found berry yogart (ice crème cone) for 2 zlotys or about seventy cents. For the same 2 zlotys I could use a public restroom. I decided to buy the yogart and to use the restroom in the museum where we saw a movie from 1939 from peace and quiet on the town square to bombings and rubble in one short day.

Our guide, Eva, took us to an amber shop. This odd stone is washed ashore in the Baltic Sea and comes in many shades from light beige to deep rust. Eva had a job as a chemistry professor at the University until they learned of her leanings toward Solidarity. She was ultimately fired and sought after a job in an amber factory leading a team of 500 people to process and maybe make fake amber. She knows the difference and pointed us in the direction of an honest shop keeper. I’m not a big fan of amber, but found some interesting pieces for my daughter and myself. Eva didn’t really like her job in the factory and now enjoys working as a guide with a wealth of knowledge.

Housing in Poland is tough to come by. During communistic rule, Eva and here husband were only allowed to have 10 square meters per person for about 1 room with bath and kitchen. Her husband needed space to work from home and finally they were able to obtain another room through a petition. When her daughter was born she took over that small extra room. Eva saved for her daughter to have a home and car some day. When her daughter was old enough things had changed in Poland to the point the money was worthless and only enough to buy her a bike instead of a home and car. Many people lost everything with a snap of a finger due to rapid government changes the devalued their currency and holdings in banks.

The national hobby in Poland is to pick mushrooms in the woods and sell them along side the road. Foods with mushrooms are extra tasty.

Blueberry girls – Poland has an interesting (or disgusting) custom where girls wait on the sides of the road for truckers and the like to come by. This way of prostitution is difficult to understand and legal. Being the pimp it not legal, but girls selling their service is legal. There are a lot of names for these girls, but one that seemed to be less demoralizing was blueberry girls as if they were in the forest picking blueberries right before the trucker stopped instead of just plain selling them.

This morning, Thursday October 1st 2009 I’m sitting at the writing desk with the window light from the bright cloudy day pouring over my right shoulder typing a few notes about our trip. I’m drinking water with the name StowIanki Zdroj from a green bottle poured into a beautiful glass with an inch of thick glass on the botton. This must be heaven.

John Gora played accordion for us before dinner at Palace Czarny Las in Wozniki Poland 9-30

We came in late last night through country roads to this charming Palace in the woods. The rooms are appointed with antiques and each room has its own charm. We ate dinner first in a grand room with tablecloths and stiff starched napkins. Glasses tinkled as they brought us the beverage of our choice; wine, beer or vodka. Stan had tender thin roast pork that was rolled up with a stuffing and sliced. I was surprised by a delicious artfully created salad with a bouquet of curly lettuce, lightly cooked carrots and cucumbers in a king of dill sauce.

At dinner we got to know Bob and Jackie from Michigan. Jackie is a breast cancer survivor from a couple of years ago and has taken live by it’s horns to squeeze out every ounce of enjoyment. They have traveled in their RV through the fifty states (Alaska and Hawaii took by plane), have a couple of fun filled weeks when they stay in their time share in Puerto Vallarta, mosey on to McAllen TX in the warm valley to stay in their 2 bedroom home with the other winter visitors. Then they find time to go to the many polka festivals along the way and of course a trip or so to Poland and other fun places. Bob had a restaurant for years on a major highway cooking good ole American food for the tourists and truckers. Now he had his eggs cooked anyway he wants all over the world. They are barely over their 70’s and certainly have a purpose to make every day count for themselves and time they spend with their family. Retirement must be grand.

After we settled into our rooms for a minute we gathered in the billiard room in the lower level for a polka party. John Gora brought out his accordion and Hank Guzevich his trumpet. They are both have excellent polka band that are renowned around the country. Man can they play and sing. It was a delight to hear them in this casual setting jam away singing in Polish, English and some Spanish. People joined in as they knew the songs. John went to get his concoction of spirits, honey, lemon and water while Hank played both accordion and trumpet at the same time. He said he does that when he plays for folks at nursing homes.
It doesn’t get much better than this.

Here is the itinerary:
After breakfast sightseeing tour of Warsaw including visit to St Stanislaw Kostka Church ,where Father Jerzy Popieluszko , the spiritual leader to Lech Walesa during the Solidarity movement , served and is now buried .

11.30am. Short film at the “Muzeum Historyczny” to acquaint you with the history of the city.

After the film we travel south to Czestochowa with a stop for lunch enroute ( not included )

We will visit the Shrine at Jasna Gora, Poland’s National shrine and home of the “Black Madonna”.

Short drive to Wozniki where our hotel “Palac Czarny Las” is located .
Dinner with Polka Party to follow and overnight .

Poland 9-28-09

2009-09-27T13:53:00.000-07:00

Stan and I went to Poland for two weeks to cities, some of which I can't pronounce; Warsaw, Czestochowa, Wroclaw, Zabkowice Slaskie, Bardo, Wadowice, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, Zakopane, Slovakia, Sromowce Wyzne and Krakow.

It will take us 9 hours on LOT Polish Airlines from Chicago to Warsaw. Our fun starts on Tuesday afternoon, September 29, 2009.

September 28, 2009
We are on our way to Warsaw Poland via Chicago. As soon as we when through the security gates at the international terminal 5 at O’Hare our world changed. Passports from every country were presented to the security guards and languages changed from mostly English only to hardly any English. Clothes changed to saris and European style shoes. Few Americans had on jeans and tennis shoes. I decided to wear sweats as we would be on the plane for a grueling nine hours arriving early in the morning in Warsaw for a long day of touring. I wanted to have a good chance of sleeping comfortably on the plane.

The plane ride from Denver to Chicago was full up. We had the middle of the plane seats Stan on the aisle with me next to him. When the guy came to sit in the middle, I mentioned that he must have been odd man out to draw the middle seat in the row with five seats to a row. He said he was happy to have made the flight and connections to Chicago. It is amazing how we have learned to settle for anything just to get some place. Remember the days when it was actually fun to fly. The airlines treated us like Kings and Queens bringing us pillows, blankets and cards to play along with anything we felt like drinking. Of course, that was when you didn’t wear sweats to fly. Women dressed up in nylons, heels and little pill box hats and men traveled often in suits and ties.

The guy next to me was busy the whole flight, first reading and answering his blackberry messages, then reading work information on his extra small notebook computer. The paper he was writing down notes was bigger than the size and thickness of his computer.

As we walked through the lengthy corridors of O’Hare I didn’t see anyone really making eye contact with fellow travelers. People were walking through the airport and riding on the trams while busy on their phones and clicking through their PDA messages. It seems we have become a society of zombies always being somewhere else than where we really are. No more stopping to smell the roses. We are all too busy trying to figure out what our friends and work mates are doing across town or half way around the world.

Wedding Singer – We sat down in our seats in row 19, which was the widest row with plenty of leg room due to the aisle that ran though our row. The guy sitting next to me said he always asks for this row as he likes the leg room. We could have a dance there. He was visiting his 86 year old mother in Krakow.

We got to talking about polka dancing and he mentioned that he was a professional dancer for about 14 years before he immigrated to the US and moved to the Chicago area. He told about the Solidarity that was just taking place about the time he moved in 1982. This labor union movement were instrumental along with John Paul in over turning the communist government in Poland. It was still hard for him to immigrate to the US even though his wife was a US citizen. He had to leave his parents, brothers and sisters for long periods of time between his trips back to Poland.

He told us of his passion for music and that he played piano, guitar and sang songs some of which he wrote at weddings and other large celebrations. His gigs were his love, but he didn’t have too much time to book them as his day job is the property manager for over 23 years for one of the largest churches - the 4th Presbyterian Church in Chicago. He rests his vocal cords on singing days and then allows himself no alcohol so he cans stay fresh and sing well. I bet his is good. He sure had a pleasant personality.
The guy told us that sometimes folks in the US don’t really do a proper polka dance as they throw in all kinds of extra steps, bounces and kicks. I can’t wait to see some authentic dancing this week.

Stan had a chat with him about his pending visit with his friends to go hunting for a few days. They both agreed that getting together with their chums was fun, however putting a bullet bambi’s mother is not so fun.

Our hotel is great. They have internet, now working thanks to a speeding technician that stopped by our room. The toilets are like Buenos Aires Argentina - square.

Here is the itinerary for the day,
Warsaw (welcome dinner )
Morning arrival in Warsaw and transfer to hotel . Free time to rest . (Ha - Internet)
1.00 pm. We will meet in the lobby of our hotel and depart for a short drive to Lazienki Park , also called “The Palace on the Water”. The palace is surrounded by delightful parks, perfect for a leisurely afternoon stroll . Then we continue with sightseeing of Warsaw .

6.30pm. Welcome dinner at the “Karczma u Dedka” with folklore show.
Overnight at the Sofitel Victoria Hotel .

2009-09-08T16:10:00.001-07:00

Hauling in Clams from a fishing boat in Well Fleet

Nauset Light Beach By WellFleet Cape Cod

Cape Cod - August 28, 2009

2009-08-29T10:43:00.000-07:00

The last couple of days at Cape Cod we just chilled. After jumping off the wooden bridge a couple of times at high tide, walking along the sand picking up remnants of shells, eating until we almost burst, stopping off for that great purple blackberry ice cream, eating fresh baked goods every chance we had, it was finally time to just sit on the beach on a cool day to relax.

I met a couple of kids on the pier fishing with their dad. Max was very proud of his fish and showed what a great job he did casting out. His sister Olivia told me a great tale about the one that got away.

We ate cod sandwiches at Macs Seafood at the picnic tables overlooking the bay. There had intermittent wifi so I could post a couple notes on facebook. Not really enough time to upload photos. The baby liked when I took her for a walk in the stroller around the pier.

Friday Stan and I ventured back toward Provincetown (P-Town)and stopped in Turo at the Highland lighthouse. The Lighthouse was moved about 500 or more feet inland from its original location where it was built in 1857 as erosion had tranfigured the shoreline. The lighthouse was moved in two parts; the tower and connecting small buildings and then the house. It was charming. There is just a peaceful overlook at the edge of the cliffs.

Everything at Cape Cod is pretty close to each other, however there are dense pine forests on each side of the road so things are hidden from view. We stopped at the visitor center at the National Park to look around and view a movie about Marconi, who sent the first wireless telegram to England in the early 1900's. We have this great opportunity with wifi over the internet connections due to the advances he made. Thanks Marconi.

Up the street from the National Park center is Race beach. It was such as short walk to the beach through weathered snow/sand drift fences. A storm was expected later in the afternoon so the beach was sparsely populated with people today. Hardly anyone was playing in the ocean. It looked like the shore sloped off pretty severely and it was chilly. We just sat, watched, enjoyed the sunshine and the sound of crashing waves.

Off to P-town (Provincetown) for an extra helping of local color. Every other person is holding hands and enjoying the shops and food. Did I mention that every other person was gay or lesbian. We stopped to watch some street performers and pick up some delicious sandwiches and the best coconut cupcake I've ever tasted.

Anya at Cape Cod August 22 to 29, 2009

2009-08-29T10:17:00.000-07:00

We had a good time visiting Anya and her mommy and daddy in Cape Cod this week.

Here are some photos of her:

August 27, 2009 Cape Cod Thursday

2009-08-27T09:55:00.001-07:00

Having a great time in Cape Cod. We went down to the Lighthouse beach. Even though I had my National Park pass to get us in for free, there was a long line. Stan took his boggy board, towel and off he went down to the beach for some fun while I waited in line and read my book in the car. We were about 8th in line. As the parking lot was full of early beach goers that probably were in for the long haul it took a while. Stan was finished and we were back in our car in time to go out to lunch on the beach at Macseafood where they have an internet connection.

I was still 3rd in line by that time. Somehow I lost the half read book I was reading in John's car. It's probably still unter the seat. Too much to do to really get into reading.

August 25, 2009 Cape Cod Lieutenant Island

2009-08-26T08:06:00.000-07:00

August 25, 2009 Tuesday at Cape Cod Lieutenant Island

We took a ride to the town of Well Fleet to check out the fishing off the pier. Not much action except the few small ones caught by Max, age 9 and the story about the one that got away from Olivia, age 12.

The walk up to Macs Seafood fish house had great fresh lemonade shakes and root beer floats. Topping on the cake was free wifi and public picnic tables with a view of the ocean. Even with an umbrella the sun was so bright you could barely see the computer screen. John was sending a message on facebook while I was reading it across the picnic table. Interesting. I could just reach over and talk to him in person. What has this social networking come to?

About four in the afternoon at high tide we drove down toward the wooden bridge that separates Lieutenant Island from the main land. This includes the little 10 month old baby in her new blue check bathing suit. We waded (John carried Anya of course) about 3 football fields in length on the asphalt road bed to the wooden bridge in calf high tide water. At the bridge kids and some parents were jumping off into the 8 – 10 feet of tidal water. Rachel held Anya and walked into the grassy area along the edge of the bridge, put her into a rubber ducky where her legs hung through the slots. Anya just loved this experience. A real water baby.

By this time John and Stan and jumped into the water several time. Families of five were holding hands, counting to three, and then jumping off the bridge into the water together. Finally, I took the leap myself. The water was warm as bath water. I swam to the edge of the bridge and climbed right out. Fun for an afternoon.

Dinner tonight for a couple of us was bean / veggie burritos. We shared the extras with anyone who wanted them. The Chinese people are eating this gourmet home cooked Chinese food by the plates full night after night. I feel like a real vacation slacker. I tried their spring egg rolls - to die for. John cracked opened a bunch of those slurrpy oysters again and they were all downed in a flash. Bar-B Q ribs, fresh salad and vegetable kabobs for the Chinese. Yes – I’m the cooking slacker at this fair.

August 26, 2009 Wednesday

I didn’t try the Chinese cakes that Ky (Connor’s grandmother) made until breakfast time. When she was making them I remarked that I could read part of the recipe; 1 teasp vanilla, 1 ½ cups of flour-and so forth, but the directions were foreign to me as they were in Chinese. One of the cakes was made in a flat pan was layered with caramelized walnut halves. It was similar to the texture of flan, but more dense and chewy. Ky said is was a New Years cake that they served during the new year. It is very interesting to share a slice of their culture.

Fulong and Ky (grandparents to Connor) traveled from Chicago where he is a famous research scientist with the University of Illinois as is she. They are first generation immigrants and have been here about 20 years. It was hard to leave their country and family, but they both have important positions that will make a difference in all our lives from their research. Chen, their daughter and mother of Connor, also immigrated when she was about 10 or so. So immersion with both cultures and languages has been a part of her life. Chen completed her education at MIT and Harvard med school.

Today is guy’s day out so they all went across the wooden bridge to hit some golf balls. Stan tried out the batting cage and was still able to hit some thrown by machine like overhand pitch with a softball.

Rachel and I went with the baby to pick up some groceries and stop by the Snow library for a wifi fix in the town of Orleans just a few miles down the road.

Cape Cod August 26, 2009

2009-08-25T10:02:00.000-07:00

August 25, 2009 Tuesday

Monday, August 24, 2009 we took a walk down to the shoreline in the morning after the mild winds and intermittent rain from hurricane Bill blew offshore about 300 miles away to find an array of crustations and various types of seaweed dotting the landscape. A walk through the bay’s damp floor was a delight. Some of the patterns that the sea grasses left in the sand were amazing. One was bright fresh spring green that looked like lettuce leaves ready to be picked. A man in rubber boots was filling a plastic laundry basket with Oyster shells from today’s gathering.

There is no wifi (internet) connection available in this remote island toward the end of Cape Cod so we ventured back a few miles through a couple of towns to Orleans where you can buy a boat load of groceries at the Stop and Shop. We stopped and asked for the library which turned out to be within a half a mile or so. Snow library was silently delightful with a strong free wifi internet connection. A quick note on facebook and then off to the beach.

John, Rachel and Anya had scurried to Nauset Light Beach for an afternoon in the sun with the backdrop of crushing waves. We stopped off at the National Parks visitor’s center where Stan bought me my own senior parks pass as he had left his at home. It works throughout the country for free admittance to any National Park.

By that time the sun was blazing hot and John had already headed back. We walked down part of the staircase and stopped to enjoy the view from the landing. The waves crashed against the shore with extra strong rip tides due to yesterday’s storm. The beach was crowded with vacationers enjoying their stay.

That evening I saw an array of food to delight a king. Lobsters, chicken kabobs and oysters were devoured like there was no tomorrow. It was interesting to watch John crack open the oysters. Nice to watch people slurp those off the shell with a slash of sauce and a squeeze of lemon. I'll stick to veggie type things.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

It’s another day in paradise with sunny skies and birds chirping outside our window.

Cape Cod - Mass 8-26-09

2009-08-24T10:35:00.000-07:00

Saturday August 22, 2009
Eleven people gathered across grassy meadows through rutted dirt road surrounded by tall pine trees to a beach house in Cape Cod. Two families, two sets of proud Grandmas and Grandpas, dotting parents, one nanny and of course the two children, Connor age 6 months and Anya almost 10 months. Two languages; Chinese and English added to the fair in remarking to every antic and droll of the children. The grandparents all had the same purpose collectively; to spend time with and get to know the grandchildren as well as connect with our children as adults.

There is always that tense time in any gathering before the group melds together. Grandmas clicking away with their cameras at each little antic their first grandchild makes while parents talk of daily experiences about their child regarding sleeping, eating, pooping and childhood development. Grandpas converse to find similar interests in this diverse group of people.

We make it through the first day taking several discussion walks down to the shoreline a short way down a meandering path. The bay is tranquil, even with the pending watch of hurricane Bill looming 300 miles off the shore. At the end of the path is a wooden staircase that empties into the bay. At high tide the water covers large boulders on the shoreline. When the tide is out about mid-day you can walk onto the wet sandy beach and stroll around the island. At the edge of the smooth sand hundreds of yards of muddy sand filled with crustations of all kinds are revealed. Stan seems to know the names of all these creatures from his time spent at the ocean around New York many years ago. Horseshoe crab shells the size of dinner plates nestle alongside oyster and clam shells. People in rubber rafts float along the quiet bay.

At high tide at the wooden bridge separating Lieutenant Island where we are staying from the mainland of Cape Cod, cars are parked along the narrow road. Kids are jumping into the ten foot or so deep tidal water into what was the marshy grasses just hours before. We are in WellFleet area on Cape Cod staying in Lieutenants Island in a house barely seen from the landscape surrounded by pines overlooking the bay. The one-lane asphalt road is covered with a couple feet of water for a while during the high tide.

Sunday August 23, 2009

Finally, we all needed a retreat on a rainy day from the effects of Hurricane Bill. So we took a ride across the wooden one-lane bridge through the marshy meadows to Wellfleet, the nearby town. The main street was lined with charming shops set up in old houses. Meandering around the rooms filled with trendy items, made looking all the more fun. I picked up a T-shirt at Puppies and Pickles for Jamie with a cute Joy Ride motif, reminiscent of the Far Side cartoons of dogs having fun leaning out of a car window. She won’t get the connection to the cartoon, but will enjoy it as she loves dogs.

One pint-sized grocery reminded me of yester year stores with aisle of shelves filled with a few choices of many items, but really everything you needed to buy. No Costco mega shopping here. I found the bakery section and purchased a few homemade donuts rich in flavor and texture along with the best apple cranberry pie for after dinner later that evening.

Anya was a cute little attraction as she wheeled in her stroller through narrow sidewalks on a sunny day wearing her new hat mommy bought her.

We all piled back in the Jeep and headed toward P-Town (nickname for Provincetown) at the end of the Cape. Provincetown has its own personality and known for its gay community without prejudice. This adds an interesting flare to the streets lined with art galleries and charming boutiques. Evidently, Black Dog is a popular brand of t-shirts so I acquiesced and bought a couple of them for Anya and John. We walked down a peaceful path just off the main street flare into the most tranquil Asian garden to relax while Anya took a little nap in her stroller.

We didn’t go down to the water’s edge today, but did enjoy the view of the bay from our balcony. Eating with eleven people and many cooks in the kitchen is always a challenge, especially when there is no real plan. We all managed to put plenty of food on the table sharing across families and listening to mixed conversations of Chinese and English. The pie was delicious as it looked, by the way.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Hurricane Bill left the most interesting shells, seaweed and gossamer plants blown in from the tide on the edge of the shoreline. Combinations of clams shells attached to rocks and seaweed made a delightful view of the oceans treasures.

Sunday 7-26-09 - Pulaksi Polka Days Wisconsin

2009-08-07T05:16:00.000-07:00

Sunday 7-26-09 was a fun time at the 4 day Pulaski Polka Days in Pulaski Wisconsin a town of 3000.

Parades, polka music and fireman targeting an orange barrel in a water fight added to the fun.

Here are some photos from the parade. This includes the Knight of Columbus at the Polka mass before the parade.

Pulaski Polka Days in Wisconsin 4 days of dancing fun

2009-07-27T06:23:00.000-07:00

Stan and I had 4 days of dancing fun at the Pulaski Polka Days from July 23rd to July 26, 2009.

Thursday was dollar day and brought all the locals out to race, skip and hop around the floor like a roller derby. It was refreshing to see so many young people hitting the floor with great pep and energy.

Friday at $10/day more oldies came and less of the youngsters until late in the evening. Music was contagious with trumpets playing the strong Polish beat abd Concertinas carrying the melody. This will really take it out of you is you are not use to the pace. The dress is casual. It was fun to dance in our loafers and sandels instead of getting all geared up in skirts, nylons and dancing shoes.

Food was interesting and cheap. Three bucks would buy fresh lightly deep fried pirogies in cheese or pototoes. My three favorite food groups; cheese, pototoes and donuts. We found the best bakery (Smurawa's) with plenty of donuts and other delightful pastries two blocks from the outdoor polka fest. They had bigger and different textured pirogies filled with pototoes, saurkraut and/or mushrooms along with choices of Polish sausage, pulled pork and hamburgers. No one went hungry in this town during the Polka Days.

Saturday 11 different bands played at the park under two tents switching off every 45 minutes or so. It was a logistically feat to see the bands change over with all the cords tied up to their equipment. Zielinski's ballroom about half a mile downtown had 4 more bands playing. You could ride a hay ride pulled by a tractor for a 50 cent donation. We had heard all those bands so we optioned to stay at the park.

When the rains came all polka goers moved into the tents. Sometimes the rains were so heavy the side flaps had to be dropped. Dancing and playing continued on and on.

Sometimes a sleeper band emerges that really sets itself apart from the rest. Stephanie - America's Polka Sweetheart was one of those. She sang Polish tunes from ages past with heart and played the Concertina like nobody's business. If you saw her on the street you might think twice about approaching her with her dishoveled hair and straight-forward nature, but she really could get the crowd going. Music had a driving polka beat that made it easy to dance. The floor filled up with watchers so the gaint dance floor decreased. It was still fun - fun - fun.

After her the Polka family took the stage. Wow - they clearly are the showman of the evening. Hank, the leader and heart of the band is of Polish-Mexican ancestry. He learned to play that trumpet with the best of them and has a voice to melt hearts.

Sunday we went to the Polka Mass which is always inspiring with the hint of polka flavor to the music. Well really no hint - it was polka music with religious words.

We were then treated to an old fashioned parade down main street. High School and military bands played while antique tractors putted by. Big rigs carrying some of the polka bands we have heard the day before brighted the crowds lined up along the street. These crowds are great about one or two deep laughing and smiling holding sweet children in their arms. One of the highlights was the Mayflower Nursery's float that carried a piano all decorated in baskets of flowers with Chopin music playing with a cast of characters in period dress to delight the audience. Jan Wos is a real talent in creating this atmosphere on a float.

More Stephanie and Polka Family music to delight the crowds at the Polkad days. One more stop to visit Elizabeth at Smurawa's for a walking taco (sour cream, cheese, salsa in a bag of fritos hold the meat) and a Polish sausage and saurkraut. Delicious. By that time the bakery was closed but Elizabeth still had a couple of creme puffs in her display case. We bought one of them. The fresh whipped cream was to die for.

By the way Elizabeth was about 12 with lots of freckles. We have a few freckles discussions. Of all the people she waited on, she remembered us by name.

Great fun and frolick.

New Generation Pulaski Polka Days 7-23-09

2009-07-24T20:21:00.000-07:00

New Generation - Pulaski Polka Days 7-23-09

Dancers 2009 Pulaski Polka Days 7-23-09

2009-07-24T20:18:00.000-07:00

Dancers at the Pulaski Polka Days 7-23-09 were peppy and energetic.

Mayflower Garden Center Oneida Wisconsin 7-24-09

2009-07-24T11:05:00.000-07:00

We drove by the airport on our way to Oneida Nation Museum and saw the most spectacular array of flowers in old wagons in front of a garden center. We turned around to check it out and I am sure glad we did.

It was the most delightful place owned by a passionate, creative horticulturist - Jan Wos. He came from Poland and brought his talents for design and creative genius with him. Succulents were tucked into picture frames and on the roof of a dog house. Baritones (smaller tubas) stood side by side spilling with cascading flowers. A bouquet of French horns and trombones were the setting for a fountain. Carpenter's benches with well crafted dove tails awaited eager customers selection of pottery. Saxophone fountains delighted the wondering eye. Carefully placed gardens of flowers beside the green house left the tranquil feeling that all is right with the world.

Walk through the Mayflower garden

Pulaski Wisconsin 7-23-09

2009-07-23T20:46:00.000-07:00

Pulaski Wisconsin 7-23-09

We arrived at the Polka Days an hour early so we could re-con the event. Thursday was dollar day. A few people were already lined up to pay their entry fee. Two large tents were set up for two bands per tent. A wooden dance floor was ready for the fun. This was the 31st Annual Pulaski Polka Days. This town of thirty thousand knows how to prepare. Several large food and beer booths were making last minute preparations for the crowd. They were sponsored by local FAA, Knights of Columbus and the like. There was list of how the event funds had helped the community last year.

Food was Polish along with hamburgers. Later in the evening I had delicious cheese pierogies (sp?) that was light deep fried. Polish sausage and sauerkraut hit the spot for Stan. We skipped on the duck soup - Cziarnina (sp?).

Once the bands and the dancing started the crowds came. We situated ourselves in the first row of the bleachers at the end of one of the tents. These tents were far enough apart from so the music didn't bleed across the park.

The dancers really go after the Polka. They have a little different step than what I've seen in Colorado. It is more like a skip or hop with a soft bounce. The one notable difference in this crowd of people was the age. This place was full of all ages from teenager up to the oldies like us. It is so nice to see the Polka dancing tradition carried forward into the next generation for some good clean exercising fun.

Two bands we heard the first day were also related. Maroszek Brothers were the middle aged guys and the New Generation were the son of one of the Maroszek group. Most bands had a concertina, accordion, a couple of trumpet players and drums. Some had a clarinet and/or a saxophone. It is a very interesting sound.

The music is contagious, played at a preppy dance tempo that doesn't wear you out as much as some of the speedy players from Colorado. The dance floors were covered with dance wax and some gravel making the floor slicker than snot. They brushed it off to make it work perfectly.

There were a couple of 12 foot square fenced in the areas that people tossed their empty beer / soda cans. I'll keep you posted on the progress of filling that.

Here is a sampling of the music. The rest of the music is on my polka blog.

On our way home we stopped downtown to look at the Zielinski's ballroom which will be added to the venue for Friday and Saturday. We came across the must delicious bakery packed with people seeking a yummy treat or more food. They had every delightful donut - pastry item you have ever seen in a bakery. Yummo.

Green Bay Wisconsin 7-22-09

2009-07-23T20:43:00.000-07:00

People in Green Bay are friendly fast talkers. You need to listen closely to catch all the words.

It has a population of a hundred thousand. It is clean and easy to get around especially with a GPS that we brought along. There are factories with parking lots full of car so the recession doesn't see apparent in this community. Tall trees and dense forests fill the country side on the ride we took that skirted Green Bay. We stopped at a lovely park to take a closer look at the the bay. We saw it is indeed green as the watched the algae filled water gently slap the shore line. The sand is filled with small shells that had washed ashore.

We sat on an old railroad tile and watch a small badger type animal scoot right in front of us. It is such a peaceful area.

Along the neighborhoods tiger lilies stood straight up over three feet tall. Houses dot the shoreline of the bay and nice bike paths through tree lined parks make the setting all the more inviting.

We stopped off on the other side of the river across from Green Bay at the a pub over looking the Fox River. It was the perfect setting. Nice to have tablecloths and silverware too.

Sioux Falls South Dakota 6-13-09

2009-06-19T06:55:00.000-07:00

Last Saturday on June 13, 2009 we took a ride to the Falls for which the city was named. It is a charming setting on the Big Sioux River. From an observation tower you can catch a view of the city and the rock formations surrounding the falls.

An old hydr-electric plant was converted into a coffee shop overlooking the falls. The view behind the falls is of the big John Morrell packing plant.

A free trolley takes visitors around the town for about a half an hour. There are many interesting older buildings. My friend from work who grew up in Sioux Falls told me that she went to high school in what is now the Art / Science Center; a pretty 3 story building of dark gray granite. My friend said some forty years ago, girls wore dresses to school and the boys enjoyed looking up the staircases as the girls came down to go to their next classes.

The city is clean and inviting. We stopped back the next day at the Arts / Science Center to lift the car on a platform using the principle of leverage. The car was suspended from one end of a beam using mechanical advantage of the lever. Using leverage one person can pull on the rope at the end of the lever and lift up the car. I tried it. It wasn't even heavy.

There are sculptures all around the town. People can vote on their favorites. The city buys the people's choice from the artist and it becomes part of the city.

We stopped downtown one morning before the dance at a cafe on main street and enjoyed eggs benedict as we watched a few people walking around the downtown. It is such a peaceful place.

Stan describing the Sioux Falls park.

Pow Wow
We learned at a rest stop on the drive to Sioux Falls that in addition to the Polka Fest at the fairgrounds there was an Indian Pow Wow. While making a waffle for breakfast at our hotel a Native American invited us to come to the Pow Wow, which was open to the public, to honor all Vetrans. He suggsted we try an Indian Taco while there.

We took a break from Polka dancing and walked to the outdoor stadium to the PowWow. A man was announcing the songs that were being played. Groups of mostly men sitting in a circle round a big drum took turns in a fast paced sequence playing, chanting and pounding out a beat. I didn't even know their songs were different. That must be what they think when they hear Polka music. That is all sounds so strange and alike.

We tried the Indian Taco. It was tender fried bread layered with seasoned ground beef, lettuce, cheese and tomato. It was delicious. I tried it another day at a restaurant, but it didn't compare to the freshness at the PowWow.

Road home through Valentine Nebraska with a stop off at Brian Bridge

Sioux Falls South Dakota 6-12-09

2009-06-16T06:33:00.000-07:00

Rain fell in buckets as we edged our way toward Sioux Falls. Before leaving Mitchell, we drove by the Corn Palace - a huge community hall decorated in dyed corn hucks in murals depicting the area. We stopped for gas was we were leaving town and found gas was $2.49/gal for 89 octane. This is about ten cents a gallon less than other places of lower octane. The friendly clerk explained that they buy their gas direct from the local refinery and pass the discount along to their customers. The store even gave us a free cup of coffee. What nice friendly folks.

There is not a scrap of trash along the highway, on sidewalks or by doorways. Cleanliness must be next to Godliness as least in this part of South Dakota.

Sioux Falls is only 67 miles from Mitchell. We are excited to hear the bands at the 3 day Polka Festival.

When leaving Mitchell at the I90 entrance is a giant Cabelas. We stopped and I could have done some serious shopping if we had more time. Pretty Niffty stuff. It is not all flannel shirts with patterns of wolves and coyotes.

The 2nd Annual South Dakota Polkafest should have been our clue to things to come. Second doesn't mean that things will run smoothly. The farigrounds exhibit hall was huge. A new wooden dance floor had just been constructed from non-treated masonite type material. Dance wax was thrown on the floor for smooth sailing. A little too smooth as I soon put on my rubber soled shoes to keep from falling. Stan did the same. Others wore tennis shoes.

The hall was split down the middle with 4 bands on each side. It was separated by about 20 feet by the concession with tables set up for eating. Two large tarps were hung behind the bands from the high ceiling to the floor along with bedspreads at a lower level right behind the bands.

These are some of the best Polka bands from Chicago, Cleveland, Twin Cities MN, Omaha and Fargo ND. It was OK at first when they started playing. Then the bleed over of noise from the other band playing at the same time started. Each band cranked up the sound louder and louder. I stuffed ear plugs in to stay coherent. Others asked for their entry fee back. Most were denied.

Each band had their own special talents to offer. If you were right in front of the band you could hear it. Johnny Koenig was the sleeper. At 23 he can really play that accordion. He started playing when he was 5. We bought one of his CDs. It is really great music. Another band - Freeze Dried caught our attention. It combined Polka beat to rock tunes with some peppy singers. A real entertainment. See video clips on my polka blog. http://www.polkacolorado.blogspot.com

Crazy Horse - Mount Rushmore - Badlands South Dakota 6-10-09 / 6-11-09

2009-06-11T19:12:00.000-07:00

6-10-09 Crazy Horse
It was raining steady enough to carry an umbrella when outside and keep the wipers flapping as we were driving. We left the picturesque town of Hot Springs South Dakota on Highway 385 through the Black Hills. As we drive, I catch a few of the names of the parks; Wind Cave National Park, Custer State Park, Black Hills National Forest. Buffalos roam in the meadows through rolling hills of short grass fresh from the recent rains. This is open range for miles. Bison own this land.

The terrain changes through the Black Hills National Forest and the open range changes to fences. Out cropping of large boulders dot the steeper hillside. Bright light colored lichen offers a contrast to the dark colored granite. Patches of purple flowers cluster together in the shadows.

It is still raining off and on and clouds hang heavy in the sky. We stop at the gate of Crazy Horse Memorial and decide to pay the $10 per person to see the museum and a video about this memorial to all Native Americans. In the distance we see the mountain with the profile of the face of Crazy Horse.

Korczak Ziolkowski was commissioned in 1947 by Chief Standing Bear to sculpt Crazy Horse from the mountain. Korczak was self-taught in art, architecture and engineering. His talent and skills were first put to work on Mount Rushmore. Crazy Horse became his life’s work. He started in 1949 when he was age 40. He tramped up and down the 750 wooden steps he built on the side of the mountain. Buda, his somewhat inefficient air compressor sat at the bottom of the hill with compressed air lines stretching up to the top of the hill. He used dynamite to blast away parts of the mountain so he could reveal the face deep in the top of the mountain.

It is quite the work in progress and won’t be completed for another 40 years. I’ll be 103 by them. The magnitude of this creation is amazing. Korczak died in 1982. He was a proud Polish American who gave many of his 10 children authentic Polish names. Seven of them and his wife who is now in her eighties still work on the mountain for in the museum. Such dedication to a life’s work is honorable. He was relentless in following his dream with full knowledge that it would not be completed in his life time.

This memorial is all privately funding as they would never take government funding or didn’t want interference or compromise in the plan. They didn’t feel it should be funded from taxpayers funds but from the interested public. Well worth the visit.

The President’s at Mount Rushmore hid the whole day and into the night behind thick fog and rain clouds. We went back up at in the evening so see if they would peek out. We watched a movie and the presentation by the National Park Service Ranger. It was awe inspiring to be reminded of the struggles of our nation and the leaders who brought us to power in the world. The Ranger asked veterans and current active military to come on stage. A Girl Scout Troup retired the colors. Then each veterans and active military put their hand on the flag and stated their name and branch of the service. The stage was filled with dedicated individuals who helped to kept our country free through their service.

6-11-09 Mount Rushmore – Badlands

Finally the Presidents peeked out for a few hours Thursday morning before more rains fell. Seeing them sculpted high on the mountain revealing their distinguished presence brings forth my patriotic spirit.

People filled the granite walkway. Groups of family and couples stopped along the way to snap a picture with the Presidents in the background. This air was chilled to a balmy 45 degrees. Little boys asked their Dad for a snow cone when walking through the near be cafe. I’m sure the cool damp breeze chilled the folks in summer shorts and T-shirts. I’ve had on my jeans, a shirt, sweater and jacket since we left Colorado. Brrrrrr.!.

Glad the weather cleared up long enough for us to see the Presidents. The clouds and fog were just coming in as we drove out of the parking lot about 11 am. It’s a long way to come from Colorado, but worth it when you see the wonder in the mountain.

Badlands – South Dakota
On our way east on I90 we stopped off in Wall South Dakota about 50 miles outside of Rapid City. Many bill boards alert you to the 5 cent cup of coffee and other treasures at Wall Drug. We took their advise and pulled into the ample parking lot, then walk a block to Wall Drug. The place took up the whole block. The building overhang was held up with old knarled tree stumps. The coffee was a nickel. Blackberry pie caught my eye. We sat down at one of the many white marble tables to share a piece. It was pretty good. The room was surrounded with original art on the walls from a large private collection. Pretty nifty décor for a drug store.

There are a million things to buy in this massive shop, from a six shooter gun to wind chimes or T-shirts. I settled for a jar of Huckleberry syrup that I’ll try on pancakes the next time I make them on a Sunday morning.

Down the road from Wall is the entrance to the Badlands National Park. The National Park is free to those over 65 with a Park pass. Stan now has another stamp in his National Park passport book.

This is some of the most interesting place to see the effects of erosion on soil that reveals the beautiful horizontal strata of the exposed earth. Strips of different colors, caused by mineral deposits, create layers of purple, yellow ochre and rustic iron oxide mixed with hues of grey. Plant life wouldn’t thrive to keep the soil in place. Erosion caused this geologist’s paradise.

After the spectacular views through intermittent drizzle we drove miles and miles on I-ninety to spend the night in Mitchell, SD. The rain finally stopped. The GPS finds hotels really easily.

Off to a polka fest in Sioux Falls tomorrow.

Road Trip to Souxi Falls South Dakota 6-9-09

2009-06-10T05:02:00.000-07:00

Stan and I took a week long road trip to Sioux Falls South Dakota on our way to a three day Polka Festival.

Bright and early on Tuesday we took the quiet roads out of Denver toward Fort Morgan. It is beautiful open farming country dotted with housing developments and pockets of suburban shopping centers.

Once we head north through the Pawnee National Grassland there is nary a car or truck riding the highway with us. The Grasslands are lush in rich shades a green from all the recent rains in April and May.

Toward Kimbell Nebraska we see a couple groups of antelope with their white tails sailing through the countryside not a bit concerned with the fences lining the fields of grazing lands. This brings to mind the lyrics from Home on the range "Where the deer and antelope play.." or something like that. As the morning gray from rainy days burn off, the sky fills with blue and overlays with silky wisps of gossamer clouds beneath billows of cumulus. The layers look so inviting, the depth and dimension so pronounced you feel like taking a walk through their mystery.

From time to time we see a few old windmills spinning next to pools of water from yesterday's rain. I snap a shot as the car speeds by, just to catch the moment.

A hum V, painted in camouflage, rests on a dirt road with a couple of army folks soaking in the view. There are several of these fenced in unobtrusive sites along the way; supposedly the grounds of missile silos.

Driving through Kimbell Nebraska we pass by a few blocks of quiet homes with well manicured lawns to the two or three blocks of the downtown. Nothing seems to be going on and many former busy shops are now empty and closed up. Trees line the road out of town as we drive toward Scottsbluff to visit my sister Nancy and her husband Bob.

The jaunt over Wildcat Hill brings an expansive view of the city of Gerring - Scottsbluf. Nancy told me many a story of winter trips over this hill that were a cause of concern due to slick roads on stormy days. Today the view was spectacular with the sandstone formations dotted with pine and other scrub trees.

GPS works to find Nancy's home off a dirt road form the Sugar Factory Road. We were greeted warmly by their friendly dog Jackie. The Angus steers in the corral lifted their heads just long enough from their naps to see who had driven into the yard. The still silence is amazing. Miles and miles of quiet.

We had a nice visit with Nancy and Bob. I had planned this trip to drop off a couple of quilts for my Grand Nieces; Brianna just graduated from High School and her sister Brittany who just got married Saturday 6-6-2009 to Shelby Neilson. Brianna likes blue. Her quilt included fabric her Great Grandmother, Frances Swanson had collected. Brittany loves pink. Wedding quilts are such fun to make and give as gifts. Her pattern was the May Basket pattern in bright pink with green polka dots.

I have given several May Basket patterned quilts for weddings. Beth Jones a black and white one (black was popular when she married ten years ago in about 1998 or 1999). Robert Truett got a bright green May Basket quilt when he married Rebecca right out of high school and moved to Lamar around 1993. Wonder if he still has that one. When my niece Tracy married Steve Libby she received a black May basket with peach as the contrast. That was really a long time ago sometime in the nineties way before digital cameras were the rage. Sarah, Rachel's sister, just married Chris Jones on May 15 2009. I made them a green May Basket quilt. It was one of the prettiest I've made.

We visited with Nancy's 12 cats that all came as a result of the one lone stray mother cat that was dropped off in the country. Some are good mousers(catching only) out on the farm. Mostly they provide company for Nancy. They all have names and a play yard to die for. PVC pipes provide fun places for them to romp around and hide from each other in their enclosed yards. They use an old chicken coup where they have their lounging room of cushy beds. They can roam about the farm when company is not visiting.

Bob has a coup of about 7 Ginny hens. Their feathers are dark gray with white spots. They can fly if they want although they have a pretty nice life in the chicken coup and fenced in yard. Bob started with a couple of hens and grew his flock. One time they were flying about when the corn was tall. Coyotes captured most of the flock as they couldn't get a good take off through the tall corn. He has grown the flock again. Most are old hens so their eggs probably are menopausal.

Off we traveled toward the Rocky Presidents at Mount Rushmore. We stopped for gas at $2.59/gal in Chadron Nebraska and a cup of coffee from 85 cents. There were no Starbucks in sight, but we did see a Walmart.

We stopped for the night at Hot Springs South Dakota. It is a quite resort type town with red sand stone buildings along the main street. Food is nice and greasy and delicious. Amenities are limited, but I do have an internet connection. I put a few photos on facebook.

Casablanca Morocco to NY 10-31-08

2008-11-03T08:11:00.001-08:00

We had a lovely, interesting trip to Morocco. The last evening we celebrated with dinner at Rick's Cafe in Casablanca. Of course this is not the cafe from the movie as that was a movie set, but one that was created after the movie to bring folks back through that nostalgic time. We sat in the upper floor overlooking the grand piano a story below. A man dressed in a tuxedo played those tunes from the movie era. Ornate black lacy lanterns hung from the high ceilings with light twinkling through to set the mood.

We were treated to a salad of goat cheese and figs lightly drizzled with balsamic vinegar. Dinner followed with tender lamb chops.

During our stay in Morocco we learned you can live without a hair blower for a couple of weeks. If water is icy cold, it is OK to skip a shower for a few days too.

As temperatures dropped below 60 degrees FH and became uncomfortably chilly, blankets and all the clothes you can put on can keep you warm if you roll up cigar style.

Donkeys and mules can walk with a heavy load though a long narrow pathway without causing a panic to pedestrians.

Travel pants made of high tech material can dry by morning when washed out the night before. Jeans definitely not the case.

People of all walks of life can gather civilly on a bus to view other cultures.

If you are lost in the country side you can find your way back to the group.

Here are some photos of the group.

Happy traveling.

Meknes - Volubiles -Casablanca 10-30-08

2008-11-03T08:10:00.002-08:00

Fes - 10-29-08

2008-11-03T08:10:00.001-08:00

Hi,
We have arrived in Fes to one of the most beautiful Hotels on our trip - Riad Dar Dmana.

We were delivered to the Medina - city in the residential area which looks a lot like the winding streets of the other cities. Narrow, no more than 5 feet across. No motorcycles but donkeys carrying large packs. Donkeys, by the way, have the right of way. We wound around several blocks turning right and left in hallway type streets to our hotel. You would never know from the outside doorway that such a lovely place was within.

About 20 of our group stayed here. The rest of our co-travelers stayed in an even more upscale place. The rooms in our hotel are not numbered, but have names. Ours is Radia. It is a long suite that has an L shaped sofa filled with pillows, king size bed and interesting furniture adorned with brass upholstery buttons trimming the edges. There is a walk-in closet next to the bath which is big enough to have a party. The colors are rich rust and cream. It is delightful.

The room on the third floor over looks the court yard. Breakfast and dinner are served with table cloths, embroidered napkins and stacks of pretty dishes in burgundy and navy that are filled with delightful soups and meats and fruits.

This is living.

We went to the mountain today to look down on Fes. It is a city built like a bowl filed with rings of commerce, homes and the like. There are miles and miles of these labyrinth type narrow streets more like walkways or alleys with no auto traffic. Our guide wound us around the food markets piled high with dates, oranges, avocados, camel heads, live chickens, sides of meat (goat or lamb) hanging off a hook. You name it is was there in tiny little shops and doorways. If you heard which I temporarily forgot something like Barlak you moved close to the wall as the Donkey was coming through packed with wears and goods to be delivered to the shops. Stan would say here, comes some ass.

We followed all the way to the tanneries and walked up a dark staircase through several crowded tiny rooms filled with leather goods to an overlook to see the men tanning leather. There were hundreds of vats about 6 foot across that men were stomping leather knee deep in some solution to tan and then dye the leather. It was a bit smelly, but they gave us a sprig of mint to keep the odor from being offensive. This is suppose to be the worst job in the world next to crab fishing in Alaska, according to our guide Ali.

We bought a few things and then shopped in earnest for a leather coat for Stan. Once we thought we reached a good price, it had to be verified by the supervisor. You would have thought I was bargaining for a used car in Colorado, the only place Americans get screwed by bargaining. Ali was waiting at the cashier. Keep in mind this is low tech and the cashier was an Arab women shouting at him at the top of her lungs and him in return back, as he helped one of our co-travelers with their purchase. Once he found out our great price more shouting back and forth and we paid $30 less. It’s all good fun.

Ali continued our walk through the Medina and we ducked our head through a couple of doors to an open courtyard. This was Ali’s home as a child. We meet his mother who is probably in her 80's. His wife served tea, cookies and dates to all 33 of us. His little boy Ryan age 14 months was walking around playing with the visitors. It was a delight.

We stopped off at the weavers den where men sitting at ancient looms were pulling ropes to drive the shuttle back and forth through the warp thread. Great scarves and other fabrics were stacked along the walls.

More walking, still no one lost in this maze of streets and path ways. We stopped for lunch in a typical Moroccan restaurant. There was a tea master who prepared the tea. We started off with 15 or so plates of salad type items; olives, tomato with cucumber and onions, sweet potatoes, carrots, green beans, hot pepper salsa (really hot), eggplant, spinach. We were pretty much stuffed from those things. Then they brought the main course. Stan had meat balls and egg with flavorful sauce. I had couscous and vegetables. There was also chicken with lemon or almonds. The meal was topped off with a large platter of fresh oranges and grapes.

We decided to rest this afternoon instead of more shopping and found this great internet shop down the street from the hotel with an English keyboard. For an hour and 10 dirhams ($1.25) I can type type, type, type.

I wanted to check my email as John, my son, and his wife Rachel are having their baby today 10-29-08. It’s their first child, gender unknown, and our first grandchild. No baby yet, but they are waiting at the hospital now for the doctor to speed things along.

Move later.

For my cousin Jack - Here is a list of cities and highlights
Casablanca
Hotel – Hotel Suisse
Hassan II Mosque
Marrakech
Hotel – Ryad Mogador Opera
Bahia Palace
Saadian Tombs
Menara Basin
Koutoubia Mosque
Djeman el-Fna – large square
Chez Ali – Dinner / Horse show
Essaouira
Fishing village with great wood carving
Berber Village
I Min Tanoute (Nearby village)
Day in a life with of a Berber
Ouarrazate – High Atlas Mountains
Hotel – Kasbab Ait Ben Haddon
Known a film center for major movies such as
Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth Gladiator
Through Tichka Pass
Tingher - Todra Gorges
Hotel Kasbah Tinzini Hotel
Road of 1,000 kasbabs
Kasbahs of Taourit and Tifoulout
Erfoud - Sahara Desert
Middle Atlas Mountains
Azrou - home stay

Mcknes short city tour
Arabian / Barbari Horse breeding center
Fes
Hotel – Riad Dar Dmana
Tour of Medina – shopping area
Restaurant Asman – in heart of medina, best food in Morocco
Fes El-Jdid – Royal Palace
Volubilis short walking tour
Ancient Roman ruins – 2000 years old
Rabat short city tour
Capital city – King’s residence
Casablanca
Hotel Suisse
Rick’s Cafe
NY to Boston

Azrou - Home Stay 10-26-08

2008-11-03T08:09:00.002-08:00

We crossed the high Atlas mountains and middle Atlas to the town of Azrou close to a snow skiing area.

Hadefa is 28 and lives with her extended family of unmarried brothers, a sister that is traveling and her parents.

Her brother, Mustapha, age 40 met us as we exited the bus. The tour didn't really tell us to unpack a few things in a small bag, so we had lots of luggage for a primitive place. They hired a man and a cart to hall our luggage up a the hill 4 or 5 blocks to her apartment. Americans we are amazing with all our stuff and always seem to be adding more to the collection. Mustopha is an artist and decortive house painter.

After the first flight of steps there is a great room used for festivals. The furniture and large cusions are stacked in the corner as are the carpets that are rolled up standing upright against the wall. There is a western style bathroom on that floor. Yea.

Then up to the main floor where the reception room or living room has table on rollers and a Moroccan style sofa set the covers all walls of the room. A TV is in one corner. A couple of 15 foot square bedrooms and a squatter (eastern stype toilet) are next door. One flight up is where Mustapha has his room, next to his 2 brothers room off the roof. That night we could see the sunset over the Atlas mountains.

He is an artist and here is his email is mustlotoi@hotmail.com.

Mustopha is more then a decortive painter. He did not finish school but continued to study on his own. Both Hafida and Mustopha speaks several languages, French, Arabic Berber, and English. Mustopha showed us his art work and explained the meaining of each piece. His philisophical insights about life, love and relationships reval what you would expect while chatting with Socrates.

He decorated the walls in his room with different textures; such as exposing the brick, crating textured scenes like doorways and one wall smooth like silk and colored like marble. He offered us an antique key. He has one too to remember our visit. Key to haret, mind, live and life. He played us a Franch folk song on his guitar.

We joined his mother in the reception room (living room). Their mother Fatima, age about 65, has the typical Berber tatoo on her face. A wider mark on her forehead between the eyes and a line drawn from her lips to chin, with dots on either side. Her mother lived to be 108 with no speical diet. Just good simple living.

Fatima had prepared mint green tea rich with sugar, bread similar to the round flat yeast bread we have seen around Morocco. She also had small platters of olives, a crumbly substance with a nutty peanut type flavor which I spooned on a corner of bread. There was also a small plate of jam made from an apple type fruit. We didn't try this until the next morning when the same type food was served except olives. We saw the apple type fruit in the open markets. It is bigger than an apple yellow and lumpy.

Mustopha explained his mother spoke Arabic, Berber, French, no English and could not read anything. She enjoyed looking at the photos we had taken of her children, Hadifa and Mustopha, on our camera at the evening welcoming dinned at a local hotel.

We had all piled into our bus with our hosts, Hadifa and Mostapha until the bus was too full. Others came by other means. We were greeted by the hotel by a friensy of music from young men whereing cream colored tunic pounding drums, bongos, 18 inch tamborins, tooting five foot long horns and chanting to a variety of beats all at the same time. Our hosts joined in loudly clapping their own beat. This went on outside the hotel along with some dancing and arm swinging from quite a while. Then the parade moved inside. The trumpets blew toot, toot, toot on the same note. The tamborine player spun his instrument on one figure in time with the music.

We were treated to vegatable soup. Then they brought out several baked chickens which several shared by tearing off peices that we wanted. Of course several servings of flat yeast bread. Dessert was small cookies stuffed with nuts and dates. Before the bones of the chicken was removed our co-travelers slipped out the chicken's wishbone. I shared a wish with Mustopha. He won and wished for happiness. It was a delight.

The next morning we all piled into an older bus for a tour of the mountain. We stopped in a French style ski village so different in contrast to the city of Azrou nearby.

Erfond Morocco 10-25-08

2008-11-03T08:09:00.001-08:00

Erfond is close to the Sahara Desert. The terrain is flat with small hllls on both sides. High mountains can be scene in the distance. Little scruby brush is the only vegatation.

Our overnight stay at Kasbah Tizimi Hotel and late evening camel ride to the Sahara Desert started at a restaurant famous for their pizza. One of our traveling couples, Bea and Herbert own a pizza chain in Colorado and had a great visit with the owner who took them around the town to his other businesses including a large resort with airstrip on the edge of town.

We ordered the regular tpye pizza with standard toppings which was crispy and good. Others had the bread type stuffed with cheese and fillings. The shop next door had interesting arts/crafts from Morocco and silver jewelry you buy by weight.

After lunch we went to a factory that slices up large cubes of quarried rock that are embedded with fossels of shells or trilabites. Interesting table or counter tops are made from these blocks of stone.

Buildings are made of mud and straw. You can see the texture of the straw in the outside walls.

Stan and I skipped the camel ride to the desert as old bodies are stiff and sittin gon a camel for an hour would probably not be advisable. Our co-travelers showed us wonderful photos of camels trodding along with long shadows against the dunes.

Back in the bus. Date palms orchards dotted the valleys and meadows for miles. Small villages along the way had terraces of flat spaces used to lay of the dates to dry. Dates are so dense in clories and nutition that the Moroccan's say one will sustain a person for a day.

We found cookies in a local grocery like fig newtons except they were filled with dates. Pretty different.

The ride through the high Atlas mountains was mostly barren with the exception of the open meadows of date palms.

There were several dams along the way. The red rocky cliffs showed different strata in layers on the mountain side.

It rained off and on during our ride. Where the gullys filled up, the water rushed over the depression in the highway as there were no culverts. We saw a man with his bicycle parked on the side of the road shoveling out the dirt and sand that had built up on the road.

Ouarzazate - Tondra Gorges 10-24-08

2008-11-03T08:08:00.000-08:00

Stan and I have arrived in a city of Ouarzarate by the Tundra Gorges.

We sent a quick email from the hotel manager's office. Then walked down the streets at dust to the internet cafe. This keyboard is not English at all and has the q mixed where a should be as well as misplaced m and w. No period, so please help by guessing. We walked about 300 meters down the road to find an internet cafe. The glances as we walked in were amazing from the other people in the crowded internet stations. It was 10 dirhams for $1.25 to type for an hour. Same type of French keyboard so I was catching to the changes a little bit by then. When I paid to leave I told the owner that it was the Best Buy in the City. He didn't understand, but smiled happily.

I will start by backtracking. We spent a long day yesterday crossing the high Atlas Mountains. Up one side, through steep switchbacks, to 7000 feet, then down the other side.

The driver was very careful on the steep turns. One time we passed a smaller bus and all waved madly. It was our bus driver’s father; son in big bus, father, in smaller bus.

Mountains are quite barren of vegetation. They have many stops for rest rooms and some guys selling jewelry and the like on the mountain top. As I look back that was some of the best selections in the country.

The mountains toward the Tundra Gorges are more interesting. The high Atlas Mountains were on the left and the start of the Sahara Desert on the right. We drove by large herds of black goats who scattered in a great gallop across open fields of scrub brush as the bus passed their territory. Some groups of camels grassed along the way.

Yesterday while traveling through the mountains, we stopped in the morning at a Taourrirt Kasbah (mountain retreat). We walked down a steep cobblestone path with inviting shops on each side of the pathway. We crossed a shallow river by stepping on sand bags. A good balancing act indeed. Then up many steeps and rocky narrow pathways and stone steps through a kasbah. A kasbah is like a for or castle in the mountains. Walking up the stairs through many chambers was interesting. The steps were of different heights which made the climb interesting on wore out knees.

The hotel Riad Salam was delightful. Soft cozy beds and puffy pillows with charming navy / gold bedspreads and drapes overlooking a foliage filled courtyard.

We stopped off an overlook in a city with building along the meadows and hillside.
At the Tundra Gorges we had lunch and a walk. The recent rains had washed out the road. I paid a young man with a steady arm to hold my hand as we crossed over the river on slippery rocks. He had his pant legs rolled up and was walking over the rocks barefoot. We ate in a charming restaurant built into the side of the cliffs. We took a walked up part of the gorge. The views were amazing. There were little shops, I use that word loosely, along the way. Tables were filled with trinkets, jewelery, scarves while rugs were hung on ropes on the rocks. Such a deal and what relentless salesmen. They all were filled with stories to boot. Help me. Help my family.

Date palms are prolific in this region. It was raining hard, but our guide ventured out on the top of a mountain ridge to buy a box of dates fresh from the October harvest. He passed the box around for a taste of fresh royal dates. The best I've ever had.

Showers are a real challenge sometimes. One I picked up the shower hose and the head cam off. This was an exploding surprise. Another, the shower hose was placed in the overhead hook. I checked the water, pulled the switch to move the water to the shower head. The water pressure increased ten fold. The shower hose took off like a wild snake exploding water all over the bathroom. I found out later many people also had wet towels and bathroom floors from that same experience.

Finally, after a long days drive through the flat lands, we arrived at our overnight stay. Our hotel this evening was Hotel Kasbah Lamrant. The room was huge that included a seating area. Come on over. The bedspread and curtains were cream colored heavy texture with soft caramel colored horizontal strips. The lamps all had crystals mixed with the cut our metal, reminiscent of the many fossils and rocks available in the nearby mountains.

Berber Village IminTanoute Morocco 10-22-08

2008-10-25T23:06:00.000-07:00

We visited a BerBer village for an overnight stay. This is similar to a bed an breakfast with a cultural exerience. Mohamed manages this with his wife and many friends and neighbors from the village. Here is his email; berber_culture_ center@hotmail.com. The small village is near Imi-n-Tanoute on the maps we saw. There was a traveling carnival in town that week we drove through the town.

The bus wound through the narrow streets and snaked up the hill to the village. People from the village waited on the main highway with smiles and waves. The bus continued to drive slowlythrough the narrow rocky path where we all got out for our overnight sleepover with a Berber family.

We walked up a moderately steep rocky path, wide enough for a donkey cart, to the Berber Inn. It was built in 2003. There are 8 rooms with 2 community toilets next to a shower. Yes running water and western style toilets. Water is cold. There was a kitchen with an open wood burning oven and tables for preparation in the court yard just in front of the kitchen.

As you enter the sleeping rooms or community room you slip off your shoes. We gathered around tables in the community room as we sat on pillows cross-legged. Our host served green mint tea in small shot sized glasses and a big bowl of popcorn at each table. The tea is always heavy on the sugar for Moroccans.

Our rooms were modest with 2 beds on a platform with fresh bright pink sheets on a hard 6 inch mattress with a big heavy course blanket. We layered on most of the clothes we brought with us as the air was chilly.

We volunteered for groups to make chicken and vegatable Tanjine, bread or bring water from the well.

Stan and I chose water gathering. Down the rocky path we trod behind the donkey with water jugs, made from old tires, packed the his back. Up we went to the well enclosed with a concrete block wall. There were two buckets one on each end of a long rope that was hung over a pulley. One bucket was dropped into the well filled up and then pulled up with the sopping wet rope. We all took turns and finally the jugs were filled. Back to the center. Poor donkey. Some co-travelers took a ride on the donkey. I decided his burden was already heavy enough and skipped a ride.

A couple of water gatherers got off the path when they stopped for a photo of the valley. Barbara and Brenda found their way back after spending a hour or so in heavy afternoon showers. They saw people along the way, but speaking or understanding Arabic is a challenge. They kept back tracking on themselves as one cactus patch on a rocky path looks like the next. They were drenched and humbled by their experience.

We had a bed on platform. I should say hard beds with extra hard pillows. The people are gracious; funny and interesting.

Our Japanese co-traveling friends, Fumi and Katsuyo, opened a package of origami paper and we all sat at a table making cranes. Katsuyo told of the story in 1945 right after US had bombed Hiroshima and Nagasaki, when people in Japan held vigil for the severely injured in hospitals by making 1000 cranes and stringing them up in a circle representing peace.

Here we were at the Berber center making cranes offering peace to each other.

That late afternoon we enjoyed the works of our labor in the commuity room. The chicken Tabjine was delicious and tender. It included potatoes, onions and squash. It had baked in the conical pot over coals. The yeast bread was flatten and baked in an open fired overn. The prepared dishes were placed in the middle of each table. You would tear off a peice of freashly baked bread and scoope up some veggies or chicken. No plates, napkins or silverware. Were in Morocco now. It was delicious and hit the spot. It was followed by with a friut salad of small pieces of bananas,greaps, seed from palmgranets and dolop of yogurt. Yes, a spoon this time.

I helped dry the dishes with a tea towel in the kitchen. It was chlly and this was one way to warm up next to the oven that was colling down from cooking the bread.

One women crouched on the floor making our afternno snack. It was a layer of sweeten yeast bread, pudding or custard, topped with swirls of dough rolled like snails filling the top. It was yummy perfectly browned.

We then had a tea making contest. We were teamed in groups of 3 to make mint/green tea with plenty of sugar. We didn't win, but laughed and decided bits of green tea chewed in their dry form tasted like charcoal. We have sense found out that the tea is poured out 3 times to help with the seeping.

Later that evening the host served thin asian type noodles mixed with a few raisins and sprinkled with cinnamon.

We slept mostly well bundled in our cloathes and the heavy blanket. The next morning a few of us did some taichi with our Japanize friends in the court yard. For breakfast we were served a kind of cream of wheat (yes with a large spoon), more yeast bread and crape type pancake. We drizzled thick honey on it and rolled it up like I did when I was a kid. My mom would save the last pancake, spread it with sugar, roll it up and offer it to me. It is still my favorite way to eat pancakes.

On our way down the hill after our visit we stopped to smile with some little children going to school. I gave them an A B C puzzle. It was cute to watch them hold it up for a photo. Hopefully, they will learn to make lots of words.

Essaouira Morocco 10-21-08

2008-10-25T23:05:00.000-07:00

The men wear slip on slipper type shoes. Arabs have pointed toes. Berbers are round toed. Morocco has about 32.7 million people and is the 57th largest country in the world. 4th largest in Africa.

Can you believe Im really in Africa This is such a trip.

40 percent of the people work in argiculture. The country seems sparcely populated to me and large farms are not apparent. Mostly along the highways you see few herds of goats scattering away as the bus passes through with a lonely goat herder resting under a tree. A couple of times we saw, of all things, goats standing on their hind legs by trees reaching for leaves in trees. Other times we actually saw goats in the tree branches.

On Tuesday 10-21-08 we traveled from Marrakech to Essaouira. These names are a lot easier to say once you hear them roll off the tongue of a local.

The soil around Marrakech is red as is the color of most of their buildings. We drove about 3.5 hrs to the fishing village on the coast to Essaouira. The fields were flat and filled zith small fist sized rocks: You could rack them up over and over and still not have enough soil to farm. Twigs of trees, probably olive trees, were planted in rows with a berm around them to collect water in hopes that some day an orchard would grow. On this road the property lines marked in the Casablanca region by cactus were exchanged for neatly stacked rock fences about 4 feet high. The fields were cleared off as best as they could, except for the rocks.

Seeing a donkey pulling a cart was common place as donkeys are the Berber's taxis. Bicycles also dotted the landscape as we went through small towns or villages. Some towns had weekly markets going on. The market was called the day of the week for example, Monday Market. If a village had a market then the community was considered to be vibrant.

I noticed one guy unloading his duffle bag full of shoes onto a blanket. These were not new shoes. This gives you some idea that the market is not just fresh fruit and vegetables but also many flea market resalables.

On the way to Essaouira we stopped off at a women’s coop that turns the locally grown Argon tree seeds to oil. Women were seated on the floor cracking open the Argon nuts. Then another woman takes the nuts and roasts then in a large flat pan stirring constantly over an open fire. The fire uses the shells and wood to keep the fire burning.

Then onto another women who grinds the roasted nuts into a paste. Stan tried to grind a bit and his arm was sore moving the big stone with a stick in it over the grinding stone. Not easy work for sure. The paste is then pressed to extract the oil used for skin moisturizer and the like.

There must be an easier way. This place was out in the country in the middle of nowhere so I really don’t think an updated factory was hiding in the back yard.

Each day along the way we stopped off for a restroom break and for coffee, tea or soda. Pepsi is found infrequently. Coke, Diet Coke or Coke Zero, Sprint, Fanta we almost always available at room temperature for about 10 dirhams or $1.25. The key was to order what the locals drink. Nos Nos - half milk half coffee served in a glass a little bigger than shot size. Mint green tea was also available served piping hot in a small skinny glass. Hold the top or it will burn your fingers. No super sized starbucks out here in the middle of Morocco.

As soon as the bus doors opened to Essaouira the smell of fish permeated the air. SeaGalls were circling over the Marine Arch where they hold the fish auctions each day at 2. Town shop owners come to buy fish from the center. We saw moray and conga eels, spider crabs, red snapper, sardines and other such catches of the day layed out on tables and in tubs on the ground.

You could buy one or many then take them over to the fish cleaner. He would clean your selection for a few dirhams. The seagulls enjoyed the bounty.

In Essaouira we stayed in Ryad Mogocoor hotel just outside the city across the street from the beach. It was top drawer with thick orange / gold brocade bedspread that matched similar fabric in the drapes and side chairs. The whole bathroom was decorated in blue and white tile. It was a delight with manicured large court yard and a swimming pools with water as still as a cool evening night. The buffet offered scrumptious food like beef tips, tender chicken as well as vegetables, rice and many fresh salads. Choices of desserts were endless; flan, tiny chocolate cookies and tarts.

No time to ride the camel on the beach in the sunset as we were very tired from our city tour. We walked through the narrow streets of Essaouira. This was a much different walk from the souk in Marrakech. Still like a labyrinth, but no motorcycles and this was mixed use with shops and residences. Many doors were painted blue for good luck. I photographed a lot of them as we walked.

At the end of the walk we learned about wood carving and inlay work. Beautiful things, but too heavy to carry home. One person with our group bought the most interesting table that nested together in three parts like a puzzle. She had it shipped home. It was an art piece for sure.

Marrakech Morocco 10-20-08

2008-10-25T23:04:00.000-07:00

Hi,
We are in Marrakech staying at the Imperial Holiday Hotel. Ali, our guide wears a jellaba (robes with a hood) each day. One day he wore olive green, next day sunny saffron yellow stripped with see through cream of silk and cotton.

Morocco has 32.7 million people. It is the 57th largest country in the world and the 4th largest country in Afric. It gets very hot in the summer at 45 degrees celsius or 115 degrees FH. In the winter the temperatures drop to -2 degrees C or 28 degree FH.

I rained most of the evening yesterday like cats and dogs coming down filling the gutters to overflowing. Maybe there are no storm system to collect the water, so it just piled up. The temperature ranged from 85 degrees FH to about 60 degrees or less on chilly evenings.

We ate lunch on the second floor of a restaurant across the street from the mosque. The tables were filled with Tajines, a local dish. Some with lamb and prunes, some with beef or chicken and vegetables such as eggplant, peppers, carrots, green beans then olives. Stan had meatball and egg. Curry flavors yellow color of saffron permeated the open air cafe. Tajines were baked in a terra cotta bowl with a conical lid. As the waiter took off the top, steam escaped and the wonderful aroma filled the air.

The guide gave us tips along the way like - Rosemary leaves boiled into a tea with sugar is good for your stomach. Cactus flower pods are peeled and used as Imodium of Morocco.

Along the road side as we road the bus from Casablanca to Marrakech we saw cactus (pear type) growing 5 feet tall and about 3 feet wide in strips around farm plots. This marked off the property lines. The soil is very rocky and it seemed nothing was grown in these plots. Other places had groves of olive trees. Groups of palms dotted some fields.

We stopped in one palm groove to look at some camels. Everything is about paying the guy with things for pictures. Well finally I have some local change so we can do just that.

Today we went through all the things we missed yesterday because of the afternoon’s rain. We went through the narrow streets of the souks. These are bazaar type market places are crowded with people and their wares in small shops. We walked in single file stopping not once in fear that we might get lost as people on motor cycles and walking crowded by. Cycles always have the right of way, so if you hear the honk better hug the side of the narrow walkway.

There were metal sinks hanging in doorways, carpets in another place, teapots on a chain, shoes and slippers in another. Very thin metal jewelry with all colors of beads for but a couple of dirhams - $2.40 US. Looked like things you find in a carnival.

At the end of a long walk through this labyrinth of narrow walkways we stopped at the Pharmacia. Is was air conditioned and we sat round on benches in a circle with the leader (pharmacist) in front. It was like the biggest Tupperware party I have ever been to. All kinds of concoctions were offered and spread on our hands to smell and rub in. At the end, plastic bags were handed to each person and then the list of items started again. Who wanted special cooking spices, hand cream, wrinkle remover, cholesterol blocker and on and on.

Some how I didn't bite and come out of there with nothing. Others in our group had heavy bags of things.

Back through the Souk market to have lunch at the same place as yesterday.

I'm exhausted but off to an open theater tonight to see a horse show and some belly dancing. The show was several miles out of the city. Bus loads of tourists moved through the pathway with men on horse back lining each side. The pageantry was interesting, cheesy and a bit over the top. We ate dinner served in bright red tents. A half of roasted lamb was laid before us on a big platter to rip off parts and find tasty morsels. Then a huge plate of coucous with 7 vegatables. Platters of fruit were then served as dessert. As a vegetarian, is it sometimes a challenge to find more than just bread to eat.

The horse show was held in a large arena. Our guide clued us in to the right seats to see well. Horses road around in some kind of order. Several keen horsemen did Roy Rodgers type of tricks by riding side saddle and other feats lickety split around the arena. A wobbly float over a vehicle came out as a stage for the belly dancer to entertained us for a while, maybe too long a while. A magic carpet suspended on a cable across the arena floated by with some guys on it. By the time the fireworks were on their last sparkle, we were already in the bus. No more comments on this one.

It's an adventure.

Joyce

Casablanca Morocco 10-19-08

2008-10-25T23:03:00.000-07:00

Hi,
I found a small internet cafe in Marrekech. This the first one I have found in Morocco as most hotels do not have business centers anymore. They have WIFI or WEEFEE as the French pronounce it. You need your own computer to use WIFI. Maybe I'll have to start carrying one. In this internet cafe off a couple of blocks from our hotels down a dark alley of shops, little kids speaking French and Ababic are crowded all around me at small tables playing games on their internet stations in a very dark long skinny room. This is probably the most interesting place I have found to type.

The computer is set up for French and so is the key board. The owner changed it to English keyboard but you can't look at your fingers as you type as the letters are different. It is a challenge so I appolize ahead of time for misspellings.

After a lengthy flight from NY to Casablanca (6 1/2 hours) they skirted us off to start our visit. No hotel or bathroom visit. We stopped first at the largest Mosque in the area. The country side is filled with argriculture. Some primitive type square homes had haystacks in the fields covered with plastic. They were stacked with an oval top instead of square.

It is more humid than expected and still warm from summer. There are plam trees, eucalipus in groves dotting the highway. People selling wares sit on the side of the road along the frontage road on a chair with a small table and a cloth draped over their goods.

Highways are 4 lanes and compounds (farm houses) have arched gated enteries in this part of Morocco

Folage and climate is similar to California with bouganvilles and palms. Casablanca is expensive compared to other parts of Morocco. It is rich ecomonically and life too live their is also.

Starlings fly around the city and countryside. People here don't particularly like them, as they eat the olives during harvest. October is olives harvest season.

A phone, for example cost $50/cell phone with no contract. Free calls are available to families on the same plan. Everyone no matter their economic situation seems to have a cell phone.

We found we didn't need to wear scarfs in the Mosque unless you want to or if is is prayer time. This is the tallest mosqeue in the world. Third largest in the North African region. It is huge and filled with marble and inlaid tile with majestic designs in the ceilings. People come to the Mosque particularly on Fridays. Men on main floor. Women up to the second where there is ornate lattuce work so women can not be seen. It is impressive and expensive to imagine the construction of the place.

Last evening we went for a small bus ride around the city of Casablanca and stopped off in Oliveris - an ice cream parlor. It reminded me of the pastry shops in Boston where people line up for 1/2 a block to buy goodies. We did the same here. For 40 dirhams ($5 each) we had a chocolate and pistaccio. It was a cup of yummy delight wraped with a paper cone filled with fresh whipped cream.

Several of us took a walk about a block away to the ocean. Children were playing scoccer in the sand. The smaller children were playing behind a large rock to keep their ball from rolling into the sea.

Gas is 7 dirharm (their money or about $1/liter or $4/gal).

Now we ventured to Marrikech with our fellow travelers by bus. There are 33 of us from US, Japan and Canada. This is a Friendshop Force trip. We are looking forward to the homestay in a few days.

It's great fun.
Joyce

Morocco - Here we go 10-17-08

2008-10-17T04:13:00.001-07:00

Stan and I are off to Morocco today. We will take a quick flight to New York, then off to Casablanca. We’ll probably be in the air 4 hours to NY and 6 ½ to Morocco. Morocco is that country in North Africa about the size of California right across the Straits of Gibraltar from Spain along the south western part of the Mediterranean Sea.

In 2000 we traveled to China with Friendship Force with a Cinda Clark, a tour coordinator from Fort Collins, Colorado. Cinda called us in the summer and asked if we wanted to join her and some others from all over the US for a couple of weeks to Morocco. Seemed like an interesting idea and certainly a place we had never been before so we signed up.

Our bags are packed, overloaded really, with enough to keep us cleaned up for a while. It is really hard to pack light when you don’t know the weather conditions or plans during our 2 day home stay with a host family. We learned just yesterday we are staying with a women(?), Hafida Lotfi, with 4 children ages 18 to 40. That’s about all we know so far. Her email is from France. Part of the exchange is giving a few gifts to the host family. Other Friendship Force trips we have dropped off quilts in Australia, New Zealand and India. This summer I made a quilt just for this occasion. One fabric has a background of beige paisley. The pattern is called Garden Path from designs from the 30’s. It reminded me of colors and patterns I’ve seen of Morocco in photos.

Most people in Morocco are Muslims, so we’ll have an opportunity to visit some mosques. They speak French and Arabic. I didn’t really take the time to learn either, but practiced a few basic phases in French. We’ll be in hotel mostly and stop off in a Berber village one night then cross the Atlas Mountains to our home stay.

It’s an adventure and I’ll keep you posted as I find internet cafes or business centers in the hotels.

Thanks for joining.
Joyce Kropewnicki