ZAKOPANE –KRAKOW 9-4-2010

September 4, 2010 Saturday

On bus trip from Zakopane to Krakow.

Last evening in Zakopane Poland was a big hit. We walked up wide gravel steps to a mountain goralli restaurant. We knocked at the door and were met with a man with an axe in one hand. He lined up the men as they went in first followed by the women. As we entered the man smacked the hood over the open fire a good one and about knocked our socks off.

We set down at long picnic tables of white wood that was sandblasted to leave that interesting rough finish. The benches were shorter then a normal chair as they were on top of two big logs.

Three musicians played folk music and sang in those extra high voices. One guy played a 3 string instrument bigger than a cello and smaller than a contra bass. We recognized many of the tunes that were adapted to the goralli mountain style of music. John Gora and Diane treated us by dancing to one of these rapid paced dances. Feet moved at double time.

Soup was served in little buckets hanging from a wrought iron holder. My soup included chunks of hard-boiled egg, while Stan’s was more a beef vegetable like goulash. Dinner followed. It was tender chunks of lamb and ham on a skewer with some potatoes, sauteed mushrooms and a snappy pickle. I had potato pancakes with fried mushrooms. Dessert was on fire when it arrived at the dinner table. Ice cream topped with flaming whipped cream.

The waiter and waitresses kept us jumping. Many times they brought out platters of drink and food, then quickly dropped the platter on the rock floor scaring us with a start.

The waitress cut off a customer's underwear using a machete to slice off the underwear on each side and then pulled them out from the back. The male waiter said in Polish- you better loosen your belt and pants or she'll pull your n---- off. Then the guy had to through them up on the rafters which were already full of bras, ties and other underwear.

The next morning replete with food and laughter we settled into our bus seats for a leisurely nap on the way from Zakopane to Krakow. We stopped nearby to drink in the beautiful view of the snow covered peaks of the Tetra mountains and the lush green of the valleys. At a church (Bachledowka) off the normal tourist stopping point, we marveled at the beauty of the hand carved wood. The ceiling of the church was in the shape of a big cross with squares of carvings, symbols of the community. Men in goralli costumes wear these same symbols craved in metal on their belts.
The homes in the area are typical in style with the high peaked roofs most with lacy curtains in the windows and floors cascading from window boxes. The foundations of these homes are adorned with repeating patterns of river rock such as a large one next to two long skinny ones. It must have taken some time to line up the supply of rocks for these interesting designs.

We stopped in a small city at the local Saturday market. It was filled with all stalls of locals selling normal goods such as bags of candy, socks, shoes, coat, pots and pans, bushels bags of carrots, onions and pickle cucumbers. I won’t tell you what the vendor said when I comments on his nice bag of carrots. I don’t speak Polish, but gestures tell it all.

We all voted to skip the rafting trip as the river was overflowing from the recent rains. Riding on a wooden canoe on fast current isn’t as charming for us older folks as it was last year when the river was almost quiet with calm.

We went instead to Pope John Paul II’s church where he was born and became an alter boy in Wadowice. Stan and I went in, sat down and said a few prayers. Up front by the alter were two chair draped in white with a large bow softly tied in the back of each chair. Soon a wedding would take place in this beautiful setting.
We strolled around the square and enjoyed a scoop of strawberry ice cream for about 50 cents or 1.6 zloty. I like that they serve little small scoops at reasonable prices. This gives you a chance to try it out without loads of calories. Some times more is not better.

We arrived in Krakow at the Novotel Hotel. This is the place we stayed last year on our Poland trip. It started to rain again about the time we were leaving for our restaurant in the downtown square. We rode on golf carts in groups of 6 to the square. It is interesting to be on the back with cars rushing toward you. One time we passed a horse and carriage.

We had about an hour until our restaurant reservations. Not so much fun to stroll in the chilled raining air as it would be a balmy evening. We ducked into St Mary’s church. This place is amazing. It is about 500 years old and adorned with so many interesting designs that your mind feels it is inside a kaleidoscope. We visited that year so I have a slight remembrance of this place. Once a day the tall ornately carved and painted doors behind the alter are opened to more magnificent carvings adorned in silvers and gold. The doors were opened this evening. We slide into an empty seat and prayed for a few things happy to be out of the rain.

We walked under our umbrella toward the restaurant across the square and ducked into the shop next door. The back room had a book store. It is definitely more challenging looking through a book store when all the books are in Polish. The rest of the store had an interesting assortment of things in separate room ran by different people. There were earring displayed floor to ceiling on three foot diameter columns. Seriously – every inch had a set of earrings hanging from a hook. I pawed through the scarfs, but just didn’t see anything I wanted. Another room sold T-shirts.

Finally, time to dinner. We went down a couple flights of stairs next door to a cozy place. The exposed bricks on the wall and arched ceilings told of older days that this place might have been some secret hiding place with tunnels. Who knows. The food was great. Pieorgies – freshly made and delicious. Dessert was the Pope’s favorite – flakey crusts with cheese- whipped cream type thick filling.
Back to the hotel, this time in a cab as it was now raining harder. Four of us paid 15 zlotes or about $4.50. Well worth the quick ride back.


Here is music from the restaurant. It was so dark in there you can hardly see the musicians, however the music is worth a listen. Many familiar songs played Goralli Mountain man style. This is the region were many of these song initiated.









Itinerary - skipped the rafting trip due to high, rapid flowing river

SAT , SEPTEMBER 04 –ZAKOPANE KRAKOW After breakfast we leave Zakopane. Rafting on Dunajec River - Dunajec Gorge through the limestone rocks of Pieniny Mountains is one of the most beautiful views in Poland. Sitting comfortably on wooden rafts just admire the landscape and listen to the stories and jokes told by the navigating rafts men. Stop at a local restaurant after the rafting for those wishing to have a snack or light lunch . Afternoon arrival in Krakow. Free time before dinner in the Old Town. Overnight in Krakow . ( B , D )