Sunday, September 27, 2009

Krakow Poland Oct 8, 2009

Friday 10-8-09

We had such a busy emotional day going to Auschwitz first and then the Salt Mines.


After Auschwitz, we all wanted some time to gather our thoughts and return life to some semblance of order. We stopped off at a nearby gas station which had a charming restaurant next door. I barely caught the name of the restaurant on the side of the building as we drove off as Goscinic Restaurant. The reason I wanted to remember it was that I had the best cheese and potato pierogies topped with caramelized onions, garlic and parsley that I had on the entire trip. Many meals included plates of pierogies, but none compared to those tasty morsels. Stan had borscht (beet) soup which was equally delicious.

Here are some photos from the Wieliczka Salt Mines. We were 3 levels down.



Next stop on this long day was the Wieliczka Salt Mine. It really didn’t know what to expect. I heard from my Mother-in-Law, Alice that she had to climb down many ladders when she visited Poland. She might have exaggerated about the ladders. I figured we would we visiting some type of factory view of the excavation of salt.

We waited patiently for the elevators that were to take us down a few levels of the nine level salt mine. We all crowded into the cage. I do mean crowded, body to body. Once down, the doors of the elevators were odd in that they opened on a different side and the people in front of them had to crowd even more so the doors would open. Very cozy.

We had heard from the tour guide that the salt was more black and grey then white like what we know from our table salt. The color is due to the impurities in the material. We walked through cheerfully lit tunnels noticing the dark walls and crystalline white veins from the salt on parts of the ceilings. We walked on smooth dark blocks which must also be salt. The temptation to lick your finger and wipe it on the smooth wall’s surface showed sure enough it was salt.

We came to the first exhibit and what do you know? This was not about the factory view of the excavation of salt, but art – sculptures made of the dark grey salt material that had been carved, not by artists, but by workers in the salt mines. They were amazingly well-lighted in the high caves of the mine. We walked through more tunnels into more enchanting rooms filled with salt sculptures.

Down flights of stairs to the most beautiful ballroom with giant chandeliers with delicate shaped crystal brilliantly set to light up the room. Relief sculptures were carved into the salt along the walls. The floors were polished to a rich patina. The whole room was salt, including the crystals in the chandeliers. It was breath taking.

I was finished at that point. More stairs. More sculptures. It was over the top. We meandered through long expanses of tunnels and about 425 steps down. My knees did pretty well for that many steps. This is truly a must see if visiting Krakow Poland.

In the evening we went across the street from the Salt Mine for dinner. We had soup served in a bowl of bread with a lid that had a bread button. The dessert was delightful - Raspberry mousse with ice cream. We were entertained all evening by folk dancers. This included some of us dancing along with the professional entertainers. This really topped off the evening and vacation.

Here is a sampling of the folk dancers we heard at dinner.






Itineary (changes to include Auschwitz and Salt Mine on the same day):

Morning at leisure for last minute shopping & packing .
2.30 pm. Meet in the lobby of hotel to depart by bus for Wieliczka
3.30 pm. Sightseeing of Wieliczka Salt Mines


6.00pm. Farewell dinner in Wieliczka at “ Karczma Halit “ with folklore .
Return to Krakow for overnight.

Krakow Poland Oct 8, 2009

10-7-09 Krakow
We walked through the city square in Krakow through one of the biggest churches connected to many others through archways with expansive domes on Wawel Hill. From the outside it is beautiful with one shiny golden dome glistening in the sun light and others in copper, rich with patina of time. Inside are the most elaborate items I have seen. As one example, there is a crypt with ornate designs and sculptures formed in the silver. No photos allowed and I couldn’t find any postcards. This was amazing.

At Krakow’s main square we went into a 13th century St. Mary’s Basilica to see the once a day opening of the altar doors at noon. This is a church styled in Gothic architecture. For once I opt’d out of taking any photos for 5 zloty’s ($1.50) as I just wanted to enjoy the experience.

There was no Mass going on, just tourists sitting on benches looking at the designs, carvings and massive ceilings of this magnificent place. Every wall was covered with some kind of design; painted in deep jewel colors. I especially noticed the wide navy and gold ornate painted pillars going up to the ceiling that split off with the same design into smaller units to follow the arches of the ceiling. This reminds me of the details that were in the Ken Follet books – “Pillars of the Earth” or “World without End” that described building of cathedrals in the 13th century.

I looked to my left at the painted wooden relief sculptures that were about three foot square. The details were intricate. These sculptures lined the walls depicting Bible scenes.

The Veit Stoss altar carried this same theme to a higher level. These sculptures were thirty foot high (35 feet by 40 feet) with twelve multiple panels. They were so large that even from our seats we could see the details clearly. At noon the music started and the ceremony began. A nun walked regally to the altar and reaching up using a pole slowly opened the altar doors one at a time. More sculpted panels on the sides and larger than life golden sculptures in the center were revealed. Chills ran down my spine.
Every square inch of walls and ceilings were covered with paintings or sculptures. Stained glass panels lined the sides of the altar. These were made in the 13th century. It is amazing that this cathedral stands after so many centuries of turmoil in Poland. Treasures from the past are significant when you compare it to the throw-away society we have today. Krakow was one city that was saved the ravages of bombings during World War II.

After the door opening ceremony we went outside to wait in the courtyard for the trumpet player who played out of windows of the steeple toward the east, west, north and south. That pattern of the song was cut short each time to signify ancient days when the budge player was shot with an arrow mid song. It sure seemed an impossible feat to shot an arrow up that high to the top of the steeple. The trumpet is played every hour on the hour every day.

Horse driven carriages carried people around the square on this balmy October day. Muscians played tunes and children flocked in the courtyard.


We stopped to hear an accordion player with his wife on the bass. He played us the Star Spangled Banner once he learned we were Americans.




The first evening we walked a few blocks from the Hotel to Resauracja Mieszczanska. I don’t remember much about the food except that it was delicious a usual. It was very cozy and gave us all a chance to relax in a beautiful setting.


Walk through Wawel Hill, St. Mary's Church and the Old Town Square in Krakow Poland.


Iteneary:
10-7-09
9.00 am. Sightseeing of Krakow including Wawel Hill, Collegium Maius , St Mary’s Church and the fabulous


Old Town Square featuring the famous “ Cloth Hall ”.
1.00 pm. Lunch at a local restaurant “C.K. Dezerter”.

Remainder of the day free to further explore this beautiful city



10-8-09


Morning at leisure for last minute shopping & packing .
2.30 pm. Meet in the lobby of hotel to depart by bus for Wieliczka
3.30 pm. Sightseeing of Wieliczka Salt Mines


6.00pm. Farewell dinner in Wieliczka at “ Karczma Halit “ with folklore .
Return to Krakow for overnight.

Auschwitz - Krakow Poland Oct 7, 2009

This entry is about the sad concentration camps at Auschwitz, Poland.


Here are some photos of Auschwitz Poland. We were not allowed to take photos inside the buildings.



Auschwitz

We stepped off the bus and quietly gathered in the lobby of the Auschwitz museum. The smell of death hung heavy in the air. A quick stop at the restroom where we paid 1 zloty (35 cents) for the use of a spotless toilet was a contrast to the conditions we would see that the victims of the death camps experienced.

We took our tickets and a head phone with battery pack that was used throughout the tour of the camps so the guide could let us know the history in English. It made the experience even more introspective as you could listen to the guide from quiet a distance away and still view the area. The place is a very somber experience as this is the largest cemetery in the world where 1.5 million people were killed brutally by gas, burned, shot or staved to death.

The guide would explain what we would be seeing in the brick buildings that were once the confined sleeping quarters for the prisoners and then we would walk single file through the buildings. Other visitors gathered through-out the grounds listening intently to their guides. Many groups of children ages 12 and up were also visiting the camps. It is a requirement for all Polish children to visit.

Once we viewed the double barbed wire fences and a large black and white photo of the band who welcomed the prisoners we went inside the first building to see some more photos and learn more about how this atrocity happened. We could take photos on the grounds, but none inside. At such a sobering experience it was more personal and something that maybe one didn’t want to snap a photo. I did have the thought about what they might be hiding inside that we couldn’t photograph as this is such an important event that no one should question the reality of it happening.

The camps were first set up for Polish intellectuals and leaders who were causing trouble in Poland to quiet them. Then Hitler had this as a solution to the Jewish problem in the Polish ghettos in Warsaw and Jews from other countries that had gathered in Poland. His solution was to exterminate them. The Germans murdered 1,000 people a day.

People were sent to the camps in crowded rail cars. They were told lies about jobs being available and spas for relaxing, when in fact the purpose for the camps was to kill them. The Germans sorted the people into group. One group was immediately sent to death. They were told to take off their clothes for a clean shower and then a large dinner when in fact they were stripped of their clothes and marched to the death chambers. The other group became the workers in the camps.

One building we entered hung heavy with the smell of items almost seventy years old from 1940 to 2009. We walked silently by display cases of two tons of human hair that had been ripped or cut off the heads of the victims. Every color of hair was mixed in a tangled mess. This hair had been removed from some of the bags that the German’s had prepared for sale by the gram. According to our guide many of the buildings housing the materials confiscated from the victims were burned when the war ended to hide the evidence.

Another building had rooms with display cases with piles of glasses, another room with a twenty foot display case of shoe, clothes or hair brushes and pile of toothbrushes. One room had a twenty or thirty foot display case of shoes. Looking at every style of men’s, women’s and children’s shoes knowing that they individuals had been stripped of their hopes and dreams and suffered an unconscionable death, brought sadness to your heart.

We gathered outside the buildings with our own thoughts. A little girl age 12 in our group was waiting for her Mom to come out. I went to her and express my feelings of sadness.
She said she had read about Auschwitz at school, but seeing it in person brought the reality of the event to light.

Another building showed us the prisons and small areas of confinement. One room about 3 feet by 3 feet was used to torture the prisoners. Many people (about 9) were crowded into those small rooms and made to stand up, body-to-body for days at a time with only a small opening about the size of a folded sheet of notebook paper at the top of the room for air.

Sleeping conditions crowded 16 or more people on filthy straw in units stack like bunk bed no bigger than a double bed. Another camp we visited showed the horrible sanitary conditions the people endured with open pit toilet only inches from each other. People had but 10 seconds to take care of their business before they had to go out and work long days with little or no food.

We went into the gas chambers and in my mind I heard the screams of the dying victims of this mass murder. Another room was used to burn the victims. Black soot was apparent on the roof of this room.

This was a sad experience to visit these camps, but one that was necessary to put things in perspective. Hitler was a charismatic leader with many blind followers. For me it is always important to question charismatic people and activities.

Itineary:



An optional excursion to Auschwitz can be arranged ( additional cost )
Overnight in Krakow.

Zakopane – Dunajec River Rafting – Ludzmierz – Krakow Poland Tuesday 10-6-06

10-5-09 Bus ride from Solvakia to Zaopane. Dinner at U Zieby

The small villages are filled with interesting houses and steep roofs. Trees are packed with apples and beautiful flower gardens are common place. We all stopped at the sign at the border to snap a photo as no passports are stamped when you pass between countries. The rugged peaks of the Tetra mountains are in view from rolling meadows.


The kiosks along the Zakopane walkway had rows and rows of carts and tables of smoked cheese packed tightly into cylinder than rooled through a pattern so the cheese had interesting designs. This is a goat or sheep cheese. The first time we bought some it tasted a little dry and the texture was crumbly, but edible never the less. We had some fresh from a farmer that was really good and not crumbly. It is smoked and smelly, but delicious.

River rocks are collected and then used as a decoration on the bottom foundations of homes. Patterns are formed using large and smaller rocks. As an example, you might have a row or two of small rocks and then another row of large rocks. Each house is a little different.


In the evening right outside of Zakopane we had dinner at U Zieby. What an evening. We all sat at a long table with a band of musician right in front of us. They were dressed in local costumes that included white felt pants with embroidery decorating the front where the pants button up and on each side of the calf was a red pompom. They wore crème colored shirts with a decorative pin in the center of the collar.


The carrage drivers also wore these same clothes. They also wore a wide brimmed hat similar to the shape upside down of a bowl with a big lip.


The many courses of the meal were served family style. The first platters were slices of lightly browned smoked cheese that we topped with fresh cranberry sauce. Several types of cabbage and carrot salads were passed around. Shredded carrots generally have a little sugar and horseradish. Main course included Golabki (the biggest cabbage leaves I’ve seen stuffed with rice and meat), pierogie (pasta half moos each stuffed with different fillings such as cheese, mushrooms, potato and cheese or meat) along with large servings of breaded pork and potatoes. Dessert was cake layered with apples. How decedent was this meal?


As a vegetarian I was served crepes filled with ricotta type cheese topped with blueberries. Yummy.


The musician played local songs. It was like you might hear mountain man blue grass with pizzazz. They were excellent musicians playing accordion, fiddle and bass. The fiddle player sang the melody with a voice so clear and high the roof could have lifted. I understand that some tenor / alto singers don’t eat or drink any dairy to keep their voices crystal clear. The highlight of the evening was when John Gora and Hank Guzevich joined them along with their friend Jerry who was celebrating his 50th wedding anniversary in Poland. The music exploded with intensity with this group of talented musicians.

We topped of the evening outside with a roaring bonfire.

Tuesday October 6, 2009
We stopped for a five mile raft ride through a gorge on the Dunajec River. Four long flat bottom canoes were buckled together. Pine boughs decorated the front to keep the water from splashing into the canoe raft. We sat on a three rows of benches with fold up back rests, four people across as two local Polish men in bright colored embroidered blue vests used long poles to move us through the river.

The treat of our raft trip was being serenaded by Hank playing trumpet and John Gora playing accordion. Those tunes are still resonating through my brain. It was such a beautiful sunny day with the leaves just changing with the hint of fall color.

Hank Guzevich and John Gora entertained us as we floated down the Dunajec Rive in Ludzmierz Poland 10-6-09


After the raft trip and a leisurely lunch we headed toward Krakow. On the way we stopped at the church that houses Our Lady of Luzmierz, an important statue of the Virgin Mary and child. This is one of the churches that Pope John Paul II stopped at for services. There is an expansive park behind the church with the Stations of the Cross, many marble statues and an outdoor altar. It was truly beautiful. There is a naturally spring with water with healing powers. We all splashed a handful from the pump and drank a few sips.

Walking along the country road in this quiet neighborhood next to the church we came upon a cemetery. There was a young heifer and cow chained to the ground grazing in a field of grass. The farmer moves the chain from time to time as the grass is eaten. There are no fences in this area. Many of our group confused the cow for a bull s the cow had long black horns. Once she stood up we realized he was a she.

The cemetery stones are large with a granite rectangular shape in front of the stone filled with flowers such a marigolds. It was a very colorful site.

Dunajec River Rafting and Church grounds where Pope John Paul II visited. Church houses the famous figurine of Our Lady of Ludzmierz.



Here is the iteniary:
Morning departure from Zakopane .


11.00am. River rafting on the Dunajec River ( weather permitting ).

Stop for lunch ( not included ).

Continue to Krakow with stop to visit the Church housing the famous figurine of Our Lady of Ludźmierz.

Arrive Krakow and check in to the Novotel Centrum Hotel.
7.00pm . Dinner at “Mieszczanska” restaurant.

Zakopane – Slovakia Poland Monday Oct 5, 2009

Sunday 10-4-09 Zakopane to Slovakia for a swim

Hank Guzevich is a great trumpet player. He is the leader of a fun polka band - Polka Family Band. The band plays all over the country. He is also an accomplished classical trumpet player which he learned on his own by playing and talking with people about music.

One evening after dinner we walked down the colorful streets of Zakopane. Music spilled out from the doorways of small cafes and larger restaurants. Musicians played Polish mountain music which included an accordion or a couple of fiddles and bass violin or cello. It was fast paced. Strong voices sang verse after verse of songs to mesmerize the people listening.

These places had open fires cooking pork or beef turning slowly on a spits along with juicy sausage. Potatoes were wrapped in tin foil and baked along with the meats. The bars poured glasses of beer. Zywiec (pronounced jgyviets) is the most popular brand.

Few people dance along with the music as it is mostly for listening. Those who do dance in these crowded bars, dance with such quick steps to track the music that it is almost a blur to watch their feet.

The restaurant one evening - Bakowa Zohylina had five musicians playing interesting music created from influences of Polish, Slavic, Hungarian and Russian sometimes at the same time. One violin took the lead and a couple other violins played melodies round the lead player. The bass violin kept the beat while a piano shaped dolcimar whipped out another beat and melody. Interesting creative and fun. Polish mountain music jazz.

Food was serviced on blond unfinished tables and included ham, lamb, fried potatoes and several polish salads; cucumber, tomato, carrot and of course dill pickles. Desserts were delights of small pieces of cheesecakes, blueberry (blue through and through) cake and cakes with layers of apple. The drink this evening was mountain tea that included high octane spirits.

On Monday 10-5-09 we took a short 7 -8 mile drive to the countryside outside of Zakopane to Cho Cholow to look through a humble museum depicting how people of Poland lived at about the turn of the century. We saw spinning wheels and great large wooden vats about four foot across used to make up sauerkraut. The small single bed was shared by husband and wife. A cradle hang above the bed from ropes for the baby.

In the next room was a father (Jan Zieden) and son carving wood. We are all creched -up now with the most delightful carved music box. Hope it makes it back home.



Off to Slovakia on Monday 10-5-09
We went across the border to Slovakia to the Meadows which is a water park right at the base of a ski area. For 10 Euros ($15) you can play all day or at least a couple of hours. We debated whether to go or not and finally decided to throw caution to the wind and pay the fee to enter. They gave you a plastic bracelet that is used on the scanner to determine your locker # and open and close the assign locker as well as run charges when buying food at the snack bar. Very high tech for me as I haven't been to a water park since they gave us a pin we pinned on our swim suit and a basket to hold our clothes.

These locker rooms re co-ed. Europeans are not as modest as Americans. Some just change right by the lockers. Americans load up the lockers with stuff, grab their swim suit and rush shyly to the changing rooms. Aren't we silly really? Then lock the rest our clothes back up and off to the pools.

Bubbles are everywhere timed like a symphony. The four and a half foot deep poll has a part built so you can lay down on slanted tiles while the bobbles come on. It is a delight for the body.

The next pool was filled with different minerals rich with sulfur supposedly good for the joints. My knees and hands feel fine so maybe it did some good.

There is also a big wave pool and one for swimming laps. The slide was off today as it is at the end of the season.

The small villages are filled with interesting houses and steep roofs.

U Zieby restaurant had the best food and great music



Itineary:

Excursion to Slovak Republic. Don’t forget your bathing suit !!

Day to relax and enjoy the benefits of the hot springs in Oravice.

Afternoon return to Zakopane . Free time to purchase some local souvenirs .

7.00 pm . Dinner at “U Zieby “ with bon-fire & polka party !

Zakopane Poland Sunday 10-4-09

10-3-09 Saturday
On Saturday we left Wrocraw and headed toward Zakapane. We stopped on the way at Wadowice at the home that Pope John Paul II was born. Right before he was born his mother asked to open the windows so the church bells next door would be the first thing that this little baby heard. Now this humble home is set up as a museum to John Paul II with things from his early life like ski equipment and in his later years robes from when he was a priest, Biship, Cardinal then Pope’s robe. There were photos of John Paul tastefully displayed from his early years up through did death. This certainly helped to remind us all the good he did during his life time toward peace on earth.



We had lunch a little outside of Wadowice. They were just getting ready for a wedding that afternoon in this old restaurant with high ceilings and rooms being readied for the afternoon event. We sat at tables that looked like they were set for the reception with white satin table clothes. They served us soup in small cauldrons hanging from wrought iron with a burning flame in the small metal about the size of a fifty cent piece right below the pot. Soups are filling and tasty in Poland. Stan and I had mushroom while others had the typical Polish soup with hardboiled egg, potato and sausage. The treat at the end of the meal was a piece of Pope’s cake, his favorite dessert. This was thin layers of crispy crust similar to flakey filo, but more dense filled with a custard type whipped chiffon spiked with that tasty eggnog liqueur. Rich and delicious.

As we were eating the band started to set up for the wedding. Our band friends, John and Hank couldn’t sit still. Out to the band in a grand hall they went with their instruments to ask if they could play. Hank took out his trumpet and they let him read their music which was the wedding march. He played along in his unique talented style. Next song he blew them away with such a grand sound in this acoustical dream room. They asked him if he wanted to stay and play the wedding with them. The treat of the afternoon.

On to a church at the Sanctuary at Kalwaria Zebrydowska, a UNESCO Heritage site. By now we are in a more mountainous area. The walk up the many steps and long somewhat steep pathway was a bit much to keep going without stopping. The view from the top was breathtaking overlooking the fields and meadows below. They had Mass going on, so we waited for a while behind the altar, which seemed to be as decorated and altar like as the real alter. This church was different; in that people worshipped facing the side alter instead of the front altar. I never really understand all the symbols and ornate pictures, altars, gilded gold, statues, and other over-the-top decorations that Catholics use in their churches.

After I walked down toward the bus I stopped at the bottom of the hill to buy a fresh made circle of bread like a pretzels with no “tzel” from a local vendor. Others picked up what we learned was smoked cheese made locally. I tasted a little that day and found it to be flavorful, but a bit crumbly. Later in the trip I found out that this is really a common product sold in this region. Fresher, it is delicious.


Sunday 10-4-09 Zakopane Poland




We drove through beautiful country side that changed from flat lands to rolling hills, then mountains. The town is full of charm as any other ski resort in the world. We walked down the cobblestone path passing by trendy stores sporting winter parkas and hats just waiting for the winter crowd to come. Youngster eagerly stomped by with mountain climbing gear on their backs as they headed toward tall mountains in the distance. The tetra peaks are right outside our window. In silhouette they look like a man lying down on his back. On top his chin you can just see the outline of a cross.


We walked to the Catholic Church at the end of the street to go to a Polish mass. It was packed with people as we stood quietly in the back. The Polish words went on and on and I understood less and less. I had plenty of time to look around at the rich deep colors in the stained glass in similar patterns as one uses in quilts with stars and triangles. Others depicted scenes of life or of a religious nature. They are all richly beautiful with the sun shinning brightly through the many colors. Panels of frescos were painted along the top of the arches of the cathedral. The characters looked so real in soft colors that complimented the rest of the decorations in the church. The altar was a busy looking place and so far away that I was unable to really take a look. I did notice a statue of Jesus hanging on a cross at the very top of the rafters of the church above the four ornate chandeliers.


The hotel (Glewont Hotel) we are saying is a contrast to others of late. Similarly they have down feather covers that keep you extra warm at night. Amenities are a bit short in supply here as the rooms look more like a hostel dorm room setting. We all have our own rooms, but I could see this working for several college age students to stay here while visiting the many outdoor activities like hiking, skiing and partying.


The grand eating area is filled with porcelain chandeliers hanging gallantly from the ceiling. A grand piano was played by a maestro - Jacek Makowski, in perfect classical style through the evening. He entertained us and then Hank, our trumpet player, and John, played a few tunes. They couldn’t match the class of the Maestro. Finally, Hank and Jacek (piano master) had a play off. Classical piano, then a classical trumpet. It was great music. Jacek was a master piano concert pianist in his twenties. He is not age 74. Now he plays for tips at local restaurants in the evenings. He had so many pieces he played for us from start to end with feeling way beyond just the notes.


Jacek Makowski - age 74 Zakopane Poland


Hank Guzevich (Polka Family Band)- Trumpet player taking turns with the piano master




Jacek Makowski - age 74 Zakopane Poland


We went for a ride to a nearby wooden church in near Chocholow Poland. This one room church was built in the mountains out of wood with no nail. The carvings were very interesting. We also stopped at an other church that was also wooden and very modern. It is amazing the intereting carvings along the walls of this church.



Itinerary (no cable ride):
After breakfast, we will go to morning mass at a local church , followed by sightseeing of Zakopane . A cable car ride to the top of Gubalowka Hill will give you a wonderful panorama of the surrounding mountain scenery.

Further sightseeing of the Podhale region visiting :
Chocholow – live open air museum of fine wooden architecture.
Jaszczurowka – wooden chapel. Rest of afternoon free time .
7.00pm Dinner at “Bakowa Zohylina”.

Wroclaw – Zakopane Poland Saturday 10-3-2009

10-2-09 Wroclaw (Vrosswaf)

Friday 10-2-09 we visited one painting in a large round building in Wroclaw (pronounced Vrosswaf). At first we thought it odd to worry about getting tickets a head of time and to be sure to have everyone there on time. It was a sight to see. The Panorama of one painting of the battle of Raclawice was amazing. It was so realistic it seemed like you were right in the midst of the battle field as the painting was completed in the round. Be sure to get an English translation personal radio receiver to add to the experience. The horses deep in battle were galloping through the senses and seemed to snort in real time as they carried soldiers to battle, This is a must see if you are ever in Wroclaw.

We stayed at Sofitel Hotel which was a half a block from the main square. Feather beds and down feather comforters were like sleeping on a cloud as soft as marshmallows. Dinner in the square at Restauria Dwar Poliski included tenderloin beef rolled around a tasted filling. My soup was onion with creamy cheese melted on top. I had thin crispy wrappers around delicious vegetables in a stew type sauce. We had layered cake generously filled with whipped cream, caramelized apples then drenched in a tasty liquor they call eggnog flavor.

There is an Olympic stadium that was built, but there were never any Olympic games played in Poland. They were moved to Berlin instead. Now it is used for a speedway.

If you look at one of the districts (communities) from the air, it looks like an eagle.

In 1944 people of other countries felt the pressure to flee to Poland. Wroclaw received over one million people from all over with the Soviets coming first. So many people filled the area that people who couldn’t fight (women, children) were ordered to leave the city. While gone, their valuables were confiscated. Many walked southwest through one of the most severe winters and died from the cold or starved to death. Over seven hundred, fifty thousand or one-fifth of the populations died at that time. The soviets locked the city in siege and took the airport from the Germans. The Germans created their own airport in another part of town by leveling buildings to make way. Only one plane ever landed at this new airport. By May of 1945 over 65% of the city was destroyed. It took a long time to rebuild the city. As an example, in 1951 the city was still covered in rubble.

Wroclaw Sofitel Hotel and visit to Pope John Paul II's home in WWadowice with lunch at a nearby restaurant just setting up for a wedding.


Hank Guzevich from the Polka Family Band playing with musicians setting up for a wedding near Wadowice Poland 10-3-09




Sunday 10-4-09 Zakopane Poland
We drove through beautiful country side that changed from flat lands to rolling hills then mountains. The town is full of charm and any other ski resort on the world. We walked down the cobblestone path passing by trendy stores sporting winter parks and hats just waiting for the winter crowd to come. Youngster eagerly stomped by with mountain climbing gear on their backs as they headed toward tall mountains in the distance. The tetra peaks are right outside our window. In silhouette they look like a man lying down on his back. On top his chin you can just see the outline of a cross.

We walked to the Catholic Church at the end of the street to go to a Polish mass. It was packed with people as we stood quietly in the back. The Polish words went on and on and I understood less and less. I had plenty of time to look around at the rich deep colors in the stained glass in similar patterns as one uses in quilts with stars and triangles. Others depicted scenes of life or of a religious nature. They are all richly beautiful with the sun shinning brightly through the many colors. Panels of frescos were painted along the top of the arches of the cathedral. The characters looked so real is soft colors that complimented the rest of the decorations in the church. The alter was a busy looking place and so far away that I was unable to really take a look. I did notice a statue of Jesus hanging on a cross at the very top of the rafters of the church above the four ornate chandeliers.
The hotel we are saying at is a contrast to others of late. Similarly they have down feather covers that keep you extra warm at night. Ammenities are a bit short in supply here as the rooms look more like a hostel dorm room setting. We all have our own rooms, but I could see this working for several college age students to stay here while visiting the many outdoor activities like hiking, sking and partying.

The grand eating area is filled with porcelain chandiers hanging gallantly from the ceiling. A grand piano was played by a mistro in perfect classical style through the evening. He entertained us and then Hank, our trumpet player, and John, played a few tunes. Then Hank and the Master piano player, Jacek Makowski age 74, had a great play off. Jacek was the master for all of Poland in his 20's. Now he plays for tips at local restaurants in Zakopane. What a treat to hear both Hank and Jacek play throughout the evening.


Hank Guzevich trumpet player from the Polka Family Band


John Gora dancing while Jacek Makowski plays the piano with grand style



Itinerary
Morning departure for Zakopane via Wadowice , the birthplace of John Paul II .
We will have free time for a snack /lunch (not included). Why not try a “kremowka”, John Paul’s favorite dessert . Our next stop will be the Sanctuary at Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, a UNESCO Heritage site.

Continue to Zakopane for dinner and overnight at the Giewont Hotel .

Wroclaw Poland Friday October 2, 2009

Wroclaw Poland


10-2-09 Friday Wroclaw pronounced Vrotswaf
The bus trip from the palace where we slept to Wroclaw was tedious through crowded two lane highways. Our guide, Eva, had a lot to say about the collective farms that were run under communistic rule. She claimed people sat and did nothing but ask for handouts from the few who were working hard. They would ask for food and money, but put in no effort to grow their own garden to feed their families.

This seems to be dichotomy from the descriptions and what we experienced in the rebirth of a nation from rubble of bombings to reconstruction of the beautiful cities we see today. Those proud Polish people who reconstructed the cities brick by brick had not faced the demoralization of communistic rule as welfare state. They reached into their depths to take it upon themselves with no government help or financial assistance from the Marshall plan that other European nations had to rebuild Poland on their own.

The change from communism to democracy / capitalistic system was difficult for Poland. To change people’s mentality was harder than expected and has taken about two generations to change people back to workers.

Along with potatoes, grains such as rye were grown for food and to produce vodka. Flax was grown to make linen and sugar beets for sugar. Vegetables included cabbages of several different kinds. Cabbages were made into sauerkraut to preserve through the winter months. Soups included carrots, parsley, leeks, celery roots, onions and garlic. We had some that the standard polish soup at a local restaurant for lunch. It was really delicious and had cut of pieces of boiled egg and pieces of sausage. I need to learn how to make this.



Itinerary:


Today we will be touring the beautiful city of Wroclaw . The city lies on the river Oder where the river branches forming twelve islands , giving Wroclaw the nickname “City of Bridges” .

There is much to see here and our visits will include : Old Town Market Square, Ostrow Tumski, Panorama of the Battle of Raclawice , and no visit would be complete without a visit to a Beer hall!!

Czarny Las – Wroclaw Thursday 10-1-2009

On the road to Czestochowa to see the Black Madonna at the St Stanislaw Kostka Church, Hank Guzevich and John Gora entered us on the bus with trumpet and harmonica. It got even better when John changed to his instrument to a comb with a piece of paper like we did when we were kids.



More entertaining music while traveling on the bus through Poland.



That evening after a long drive we all unwound by playing pool and listening and singing along to music played by Hank and John. Our group drank vodka shots one evening just to keep the potato economy in Poland stimulated.




9-30-09 Czestochowa Poland
On the way to Czestachowa Poland to see the Black Madonna, Eva, our guide told of the many type of fruits and vegetables grown in Poland. Along with blueberries, cranberries and wild strawberries, three types of currents were available; white, red and dark purple. The blueberries are different from those we find in the stores in the US as they are also blue inside and make your teeth blue when you eat them. Poland is a big vodka producer. This is not a surprise as Poland is the largest potato producer in the world. Potatoes are a prime ingredient of vodka.

Photos of the Shrine of the Jasna Gora and home of the Black Madonna in Czestochowa. Also photos of the grounds at the palace we stay overnight at Palac Czarny Las in Wozniki.



Trees along the highway are heavy with apples. One evening at the palace we had an interesting dessert made with a half of a poached apple topped with custard sauce with some fresh raspberries in sauce dribbled through the custard. Yum.


Rolling fields meander over the country side with strips of corn layered next to beans with leaves just turning yellow with the chill of fall. Dairy farmers have really taken a hit lately where the milk prices are less than the cost of producing the products.

I understand that ownership of farms have changed over the years. At one time a three mile strip of land might be owned by one farmer and next to him another by his neighbor making up about 50 acres for each to farm. After World War II when the Soviets defeated the Germans in Poland, big farms were converted to government owned properties and community farmed under communist rule. This community farming didn’t work too well and farms were mostly unproductive as people didn’t have any incentive to really get going on the production. They had housing, heat and a paid job no matter what they did on the farm, so many did nothing to keep the land productive. All the Poland population were considered owners so every one subsidized collective unproductive farms.


Now those PTR (collective communist farms) were bought up by opportunist capitalist for a small percentage of their true value. Many sit with empty buildings and weed filled patches of land unsold and even more unproductive than when the government owned them.


Along the drive through the country windmills generating electricity are common place.
Finally, we arrived at the basilica to view the Black Madonna, dark due to the age of the painting, not the color of the skin. We reverently walked single file along a cordoned off path along the side of the inside of the church, then behind the alter through a narrow hallway and back out along the other side of the church. We could quietly and quickly look up at the painting of the Black Madonna above the alter. Looking up the eyes followed you as you walked quietly by. It was an interesting experience. There is no doubt that this ancient painting is revered and carries some special healing energy. I said a quick prayer just in case there was something to this legion. As we hugged the wall in single file it seemed a little disruptive to others who were worshiping during the mass, but I’m sure they have thought through this situation and found this is the best way to accommodate the needs of the tourists. August 15th there is a pilgrimage where hundreds of thousands walk from Warsaw to Czestochowa to see the Black Madonna and descend on the area.

Itinary for the day:
After breakfast departure for Wroclaw .

1.00 pm. Visit the Brzeg Castle . Built in the 13th century as the Renaissance residence of the Piast Royal Family.

Continue to Wroclaw with a short stop for lunch ( not included ) Arrival in Wroclaw and check in to the Sofitel Wroclaw Hotel Dinner at Restauracja Dwor Polski . Overnight.

Warsaw – Czestochowa – Czarny Las Wednesday 9-30-09



9-29-09 Warsaw Poland
We had the most delightful time walking through Lazienki Park in Warsaw Poland. There were lakes with ducks cutting their path through the quiet water that meandered under the curve arched roadway bridges. The chestnut trees provided a shade over cobblestone pathways.
We dawned make shift covers over our shoes while walking though a king's palace

Warsaw 9-29-09

The cobblestone pathways are remarkablely constructed on semi-circular patterns like the finishing of a puzzle. We dawned make shift covers over our shoes while walking through a King’s palace that was full restored from a fire during World War II when it was burned by the enemy.
The ballroom was exquisite with a grand piano, ornate gold wainscoting and old with some restored oil paintings. It was delightful to view the magnificent for yester year.
It started raining, which didn’t dampen our spirits, but only added to the drama of being in a foreign country.


Lazienki Park, Town Square and Streets of Poland

We stopped a local pub for some soup and a beer. I tried their homemade apple pie. It might have been made in the kitchen, which was down a steep staircase to the cellar under the pub. It was good and hit the spot.
In the evening we had a delightful dinner at Karczma u Dedka with energetic folk dancers and a band with accordion, violin, clarinet and bass fiddle. The accordion was not the same type of button box that I’ve seen in the US, but had rows and rows of black and white buttons where you would see piano type keys or the popular 4 rows of buttons on the standard button-box accordion.
They danced and sang in a very professional rendition of all types of music; polka, oberek and polinesse.

Stan had his hand at cracking the whip. Not the winner of the contest, but good clean fun.
The Polish food was delicious. I had potato pancakes with flavorful mushroom gravy with several types of coleslaw. Stan had tender breaded turkey and lightly browned potato dumplings (similar to Italian gnocchi).
On Wednesday, 9-30-09, we finished up our tour of Warsaw. There have been so many wars between Poland and Russia.

Our guide, Eva, told the story of her uncle on her mother’s side that was captured by the Germans. He was instructed to walk through the forest to where they were shooting these people. In the fog he lost his way thus missing the massacre. He lived to as a witness to these atrocities.

In the north district of Warsaw a young priest who was born in 1947 worked in the parish at St Stanislaw Kostka’s church to help the Solidarity movement about 1980. In 1981 marshall law and physical fighing broke out when 10 million members of the union confronted the communist government. Jerzy Popieluszlo, the priest was instrumental in helping these workers once a month at a mass he said for the nation. His cry was that Good can fight evil (Wolnosc Jednose Milosc). He was captured / kidnapped by the secret service and then killed. Today a monument is set up at the church where he is buried. Daily arrangements are set around his grave and people still remember him after all these years.

There is so much significant history in Poland. The Jews had their problems in Europe that also were experienced in Poland. Poland had about 32 million people with 10% of them Jews. Hitler decided to fight the Jews in Poland by setting up a ghetto where he fenced them into this crowded area. These were Jews from other districts that were well educated as doctor, writers, actors. Five hundred thousand lived in a five square contained area, which was too crowded to keep out disease, starvation with no access to medication. Hitler refused to address this situation expect through extermination of the Jews in the ghetto of Poland. He built 13 gas chambers and took the lives of 1,000 Jews a day. We went to this ghetto where there is a monument to the ghetto Jews was erected where so many lost their lives.
Poland is a country of rejuvenation from the devastation of bombing in 1939 to rebirth and rebuilding of city centers and communities into vibrant cities once more. It is amazing when you see the ruble that was left buy the bombing from the German’s and the charm of Wasaw today.

Here are a few photos of the memorial to the Ghetto in Warsaw Poland and some other street scenes and the reconstructed city square.



One of our co-travelers visited Warsaw 8 years ago. A new blight had hit the city. Graffiti from Polish gang youngsters has spread through the city that just 8 years ago was graffiti free. It is a shame to see the old buildings that were so carefully restored tagged with youthful hatred and anger after their generation just before spent timeless hours restoring these buildings.

On a lighter note it is important to understand the history of places you visit but to also enjoy them. I found berry yogart (ice crème cone) for 2 zlotys or about seventy cents. For the same 2 zlotys I could use a public restroom. I decided to buy the yogart and to use the restroom in the museum where we saw a movie from 1939 from peace and quiet on the town square to bombings and rubble in one short day.

Our guide, Eva, took us to an amber shop. This odd stone is washed ashore in the Baltic Sea and comes in many shades from light beige to deep rust. Eva had a job as a chemistry professor at the University until they learned of her leanings toward Solidarity. She was ultimately fired and sought after a job in an amber factory leading a team of 500 people to process and maybe make fake amber. She knows the difference and pointed us in the direction of an honest shop keeper. I’m not a big fan of amber, but found some interesting pieces for my daughter and myself. Eva didn’t really like her job in the factory and now enjoys working as a guide with a wealth of knowledge.

Housing in Poland is tough to come by. During communistic rule, Eva and here husband were only allowed to have 10 square meters per person for about 1 room with bath and kitchen. Her husband needed space to work from home and finally they were able to obtain another room through a petition. When her daughter was born she took over that small extra room. Eva saved for her daughter to have a home and car some day. When her daughter was old enough things had changed in Poland to the point the money was worthless and only enough to buy her a bike instead of a home and car. Many people lost everything with a snap of a finger due to rapid government changes the devalued their currency and holdings in banks.

The national hobby in Poland is to pick mushrooms in the woods and sell them along side the road. Foods with mushrooms are extra tasty.

Blueberry girls – Poland has an interesting (or disgusting) custom where girls wait on the sides of the road for truckers and the like to come by. This way of prostitution is difficult to understand and legal. Being the pimp it not legal, but girls selling their service is legal. There are a lot of names for these girls, but one that seemed to be less demoralizing was blueberry girls as if they were in the forest picking blueberries right before the trucker stopped instead of just plain selling them.

This morning, Thursday October 1st 2009 I’m sitting at the writing desk with the window light from the bright cloudy day pouring over my right shoulder typing a few notes about our trip. I’m drinking water with the name StowIanki Zdroj from a green bottle poured into a beautiful glass with an inch of thick glass on the botton. This must be heaven.

John Gora played accordion for us before dinner at Palace Czarny Las in Wozniki Poland 9-30



We came in late last night through country roads to this charming Palace in the woods. The rooms are appointed with antiques and each room has its own charm. We ate dinner first in a grand room with tablecloths and stiff starched napkins. Glasses tinkled as they brought us the beverage of our choice; wine, beer or vodka. Stan had tender thin roast pork that was rolled up with a stuffing and sliced. I was surprised by a delicious artfully created salad with a bouquet of curly lettuce, lightly cooked carrots and cucumbers in a king of dill sauce.

At dinner we got to know Bob and Jackie from Michigan. Jackie is a breast cancer survivor from a couple of years ago and has taken live by it’s horns to squeeze out every ounce of enjoyment. They have traveled in their RV through the fifty states (Alaska and Hawaii took by plane), have a couple of fun filled weeks when they stay in their time share in Puerto Vallarta, mosey on to McAllen TX in the warm valley to stay in their 2 bedroom home with the other winter visitors. Then they find time to go to the many polka festivals along the way and of course a trip or so to Poland and other fun places. Bob had a restaurant for years on a major highway cooking good ole American food for the tourists and truckers. Now he had his eggs cooked anyway he wants all over the world. They are barely over their 70’s and certainly have a purpose to make every day count for themselves and time they spend with their family. Retirement must be grand.

After we settled into our rooms for a minute we gathered in the billiard room in the lower level for a polka party. John Gora brought out his accordion and Hank Guzevich his trumpet. They are both have excellent polka band that are renowned around the country. Man can they play and sing. It was a delight to hear them in this casual setting jam away singing in Polish, English and some Spanish. People joined in as they knew the songs. John went to get his concoction of spirits, honey, lemon and water while Hank played both accordion and trumpet at the same time. He said he does that when he plays for folks at nursing homes.
It doesn’t get much better than this.



Here is the itinerary:
After breakfast sightseeing tour of Warsaw including visit to St Stanislaw Kostka Church ,where Father Jerzy Popieluszko , the spiritual leader to Lech Walesa during the Solidarity movement , served and is now buried .

11.30am. Short film at the “Muzeum Historyczny” to acquaint you with the history of the city.

After the film we travel south to Czestochowa with a stop for lunch enroute ( not included )

We will visit the Shrine at Jasna Gora, Poland’s National shrine and home of the “Black Madonna”.

Short drive to Wozniki where our hotel “Palac Czarny Las” is located .
Dinner with Polka Party to follow and overnight .

Poland 9-28-09



Stan and I went to Poland for two weeks to cities, some of which I can't pronounce; Warsaw, Czestochowa, Wroclaw, Zabkowice Slaskie, Bardo, Wadowice, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, Zakopane, Slovakia, Sromowce Wyzne and Krakow.

It will take us 9 hours on LOT Polish Airlines from Chicago to Warsaw. Our fun starts on Tuesday afternoon, September 29, 2009.

September 28, 2009
We are on our way to Warsaw Poland via Chicago. As soon as we when through the security gates at the international terminal 5 at O’Hare our world changed. Passports from every country were presented to the security guards and languages changed from mostly English only to hardly any English. Clothes changed to saris and European style shoes. Few Americans had on jeans and tennis shoes. I decided to wear sweats as we would be on the plane for a grueling nine hours arriving early in the morning in Warsaw for a long day of touring. I wanted to have a good chance of sleeping comfortably on the plane.

The plane ride from Denver to Chicago was full up. We had the middle of the plane seats Stan on the aisle with me next to him. When the guy came to sit in the middle, I mentioned that he must have been odd man out to draw the middle seat in the row with five seats to a row. He said he was happy to have made the flight and connections to Chicago. It is amazing how we have learned to settle for anything just to get some place. Remember the days when it was actually fun to fly. The airlines treated us like Kings and Queens bringing us pillows, blankets and cards to play along with anything we felt like drinking. Of course, that was when you didn’t wear sweats to fly. Women dressed up in nylons, heels and little pill box hats and men traveled often in suits and ties.

The guy next to me was busy the whole flight, first reading and answering his blackberry messages, then reading work information on his extra small notebook computer. The paper he was writing down notes was bigger than the size and thickness of his computer.

As we walked through the lengthy corridors of O’Hare I didn’t see anyone really making eye contact with fellow travelers. People were walking through the airport and riding on the trams while busy on their phones and clicking through their PDA messages. It seems we have become a society of zombies always being somewhere else than where we really are. No more stopping to smell the roses. We are all too busy trying to figure out what our friends and work mates are doing across town or half way around the world.

Wedding Singer – We sat down in our seats in row 19, which was the widest row with plenty of leg room due to the aisle that ran though our row. The guy sitting next to me said he always asks for this row as he likes the leg room. We could have a dance there. He was visiting his 86 year old mother in Krakow.

We got to talking about polka dancing and he mentioned that he was a professional dancer for about 14 years before he immigrated to the US and moved to the Chicago area. He told about the Solidarity that was just taking place about the time he moved in 1982. This labor union movement were instrumental along with John Paul in over turning the communist government in Poland. It was still hard for him to immigrate to the US even though his wife was a US citizen. He had to leave his parents, brothers and sisters for long periods of time between his trips back to Poland.

He told us of his passion for music and that he played piano, guitar and sang songs some of which he wrote at weddings and other large celebrations. His gigs were his love, but he didn’t have too much time to book them as his day job is the property manager for over 23 years for one of the largest churches - the 4th Presbyterian Church in Chicago. He rests his vocal cords on singing days and then allows himself no alcohol so he cans stay fresh and sing well. I bet his is good. He sure had a pleasant personality.
The guy told us that sometimes folks in the US don’t really do a proper polka dance as they throw in all kinds of extra steps, bounces and kicks. I can’t wait to see some authentic dancing this week.

Stan had a chat with him about his pending visit with his friends to go hunting for a few days. They both agreed that getting together with their chums was fun, however putting a bullet bambi’s mother is not so fun.

Our hotel is great. They have internet, now working thanks to a speeding technician that stopped by our room. The toilets are like Buenos Aires Argentina - square.




Here is the itinerary for the day,
Warsaw (welcome dinner )
Morning arrival in Warsaw and transfer to hotel . Free time to rest . (Ha - Internet)
1.00 pm. We will meet in the lobby of our hotel and depart for a short drive to Lazienki Park , also called “The Palace on the Water”. The palace is surrounded by delightful parks, perfect for a leisurely afternoon stroll . Then we continue with sightseeing of Warsaw .

6.30pm. Welcome dinner at the “Karczma u Dedka” with folklore show.
Overnight at the Sofitel Victoria Hotel .

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Hauling in Clams from a fishing boat in Well Fleet




Nauset Light Beach By WellFleet Cape Cod