10-3-09 Saturday
On Saturday we left Wrocraw and headed toward Zakapane. We stopped on the way at Wadowice at the home that Pope John Paul II was born. Right before he was born his mother asked to open the windows so the church bells next door would be the first thing that this little baby heard. Now this humble home is set up as a museum to John Paul II with things from his early life like ski equipment and in his later years robes from when he was a priest, Biship, Cardinal then Pope’s robe. There were photos of John Paul tastefully displayed from his early years up through did death. This certainly helped to remind us all the good he did during his life time toward peace on earth.
We had lunch a little outside of Wadowice. They were just getting ready for a wedding that afternoon in this old restaurant with high ceilings and rooms being readied for the afternoon event. We sat at tables that looked like they were set for the reception with white satin table clothes. They served us soup in small cauldrons hanging from wrought iron with a burning flame in the small metal about the size of a fifty cent piece right below the pot. Soups are filling and tasty in Poland. Stan and I had mushroom while others had the typical Polish soup with hardboiled egg, potato and sausage. The treat at the end of the meal was a piece of Pope’s cake, his favorite dessert. This was thin layers of crispy crust similar to flakey filo, but more dense filled with a custard type whipped chiffon spiked with that tasty eggnog liqueur. Rich and delicious.
As we were eating the band started to set up for the wedding. Our band friends, John and Hank couldn’t sit still. Out to the band in a grand hall they went with their instruments to ask if they could play. Hank took out his trumpet and they let him read their music which was the wedding march. He played along in his unique talented style. Next song he blew them away with such a grand sound in this acoustical dream room. They asked him if he wanted to stay and play the wedding with them. The treat of the afternoon.
On to a church at the Sanctuary at Kalwaria Zebrydowska, a UNESCO Heritage site. By now we are in a more mountainous area. The walk up the many steps and long somewhat steep pathway was a bit much to keep going without stopping. The view from the top was breathtaking overlooking the fields and meadows below. They had Mass going on, so we waited for a while behind the altar, which seemed to be as decorated and altar like as the real alter. This church was different; in that people worshipped facing the side alter instead of the front altar. I never really understand all the symbols and ornate pictures, altars, gilded gold, statues, and other over-the-top decorations that Catholics use in their churches.
After I walked down toward the bus I stopped at the bottom of the hill to buy a fresh made circle of bread like a pretzels with no “tzel” from a local vendor. Others picked up what we learned was smoked cheese made locally. I tasted a little that day and found it to be flavorful, but a bit crumbly. Later in the trip I found out that this is really a common product sold in this region. Fresher, it is delicious.
Sunday 10-4-09 Zakopane Poland
We drove through beautiful country side that changed from flat lands to rolling hills, then mountains. The town is full of charm as any other ski resort in the world. We walked down the cobblestone path passing by trendy stores sporting winter parkas and hats just waiting for the winter crowd to come. Youngster eagerly stomped by with mountain climbing gear on their backs as they headed toward tall mountains in the distance. The tetra peaks are right outside our window. In silhouette they look like a man lying down on his back. On top his chin you can just see the outline of a cross.
We walked to the Catholic Church at the end of the street to go to a Polish mass. It was packed with people as we stood quietly in the back. The Polish words went on and on and I understood less and less. I had plenty of time to look around at the rich deep colors in the stained glass in similar patterns as one uses in quilts with stars and triangles. Others depicted scenes of life or of a religious nature. They are all richly beautiful with the sun shinning brightly through the many colors. Panels of frescos were painted along the top of the arches of the cathedral. The characters looked so real in soft colors that complimented the rest of the decorations in the church. The altar was a busy looking place and so far away that I was unable to really take a look. I did notice a statue of Jesus hanging on a cross at the very top of the rafters of the church above the four ornate chandeliers.
The hotel (Glewont Hotel) we are saying is a contrast to others of late. Similarly they have down feather covers that keep you extra warm at night. Amenities are a bit short in supply here as the rooms look more like a hostel dorm room setting. We all have our own rooms, but I could see this working for several college age students to stay here while visiting the many outdoor activities like hiking, skiing and partying.
The grand eating area is filled with porcelain chandeliers hanging gallantly from the ceiling. A grand piano was played by a maestro - Jacek Makowski, in perfect classical style through the evening. He entertained us and then Hank, our trumpet player, and John, played a few tunes. They couldn’t match the class of the Maestro. Finally, Hank and Jacek (piano master) had a play off. Classical piano, then a classical trumpet. It was great music. Jacek was a master piano concert pianist in his twenties. He is not age 74. Now he plays for tips at local restaurants in the evenings. He had so many pieces he played for us from start to end with feeling way beyond just the notes.
Jacek Makowski - age 74 Zakopane Poland
Hank Guzevich (Polka Family Band)- Trumpet player taking turns with the piano master
Jacek Makowski - age 74 Zakopane Poland
We went for a ride to a nearby wooden church in near Chocholow Poland. This one room church was built in the mountains out of wood with no nail. The carvings were very interesting. We also stopped at an other church that was also wooden and very modern. It is amazing the intereting carvings along the walls of this church.
Itinerary (no cable ride):
After breakfast, we will go to morning mass at a local church , followed by sightseeing of Zakopane . A cable car ride to the top of Gubalowka Hill will give you a wonderful panorama of the surrounding mountain scenery.
Further sightseeing of the Podhale region visiting :
Chocholow – live open air museum of fine wooden architecture.
Jaszczurowka – wooden chapel. Rest of afternoon free time .
7.00pm Dinner at “Bakowa Zohylina”.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
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