Sunday, September 27, 2009

Zakopane – Dunajec River Rafting – Ludzmierz – Krakow Poland Tuesday 10-6-06

10-5-09 Bus ride from Solvakia to Zaopane. Dinner at U Zieby

The small villages are filled with interesting houses and steep roofs. Trees are packed with apples and beautiful flower gardens are common place. We all stopped at the sign at the border to snap a photo as no passports are stamped when you pass between countries. The rugged peaks of the Tetra mountains are in view from rolling meadows.


The kiosks along the Zakopane walkway had rows and rows of carts and tables of smoked cheese packed tightly into cylinder than rooled through a pattern so the cheese had interesting designs. This is a goat or sheep cheese. The first time we bought some it tasted a little dry and the texture was crumbly, but edible never the less. We had some fresh from a farmer that was really good and not crumbly. It is smoked and smelly, but delicious.

River rocks are collected and then used as a decoration on the bottom foundations of homes. Patterns are formed using large and smaller rocks. As an example, you might have a row or two of small rocks and then another row of large rocks. Each house is a little different.


In the evening right outside of Zakopane we had dinner at U Zieby. What an evening. We all sat at a long table with a band of musician right in front of us. They were dressed in local costumes that included white felt pants with embroidery decorating the front where the pants button up and on each side of the calf was a red pompom. They wore crème colored shirts with a decorative pin in the center of the collar.


The carrage drivers also wore these same clothes. They also wore a wide brimmed hat similar to the shape upside down of a bowl with a big lip.


The many courses of the meal were served family style. The first platters were slices of lightly browned smoked cheese that we topped with fresh cranberry sauce. Several types of cabbage and carrot salads were passed around. Shredded carrots generally have a little sugar and horseradish. Main course included Golabki (the biggest cabbage leaves I’ve seen stuffed with rice and meat), pierogie (pasta half moos each stuffed with different fillings such as cheese, mushrooms, potato and cheese or meat) along with large servings of breaded pork and potatoes. Dessert was cake layered with apples. How decedent was this meal?


As a vegetarian I was served crepes filled with ricotta type cheese topped with blueberries. Yummy.


The musician played local songs. It was like you might hear mountain man blue grass with pizzazz. They were excellent musicians playing accordion, fiddle and bass. The fiddle player sang the melody with a voice so clear and high the roof could have lifted. I understand that some tenor / alto singers don’t eat or drink any dairy to keep their voices crystal clear. The highlight of the evening was when John Gora and Hank Guzevich joined them along with their friend Jerry who was celebrating his 50th wedding anniversary in Poland. The music exploded with intensity with this group of talented musicians.

We topped of the evening outside with a roaring bonfire.

Tuesday October 6, 2009
We stopped for a five mile raft ride through a gorge on the Dunajec River. Four long flat bottom canoes were buckled together. Pine boughs decorated the front to keep the water from splashing into the canoe raft. We sat on a three rows of benches with fold up back rests, four people across as two local Polish men in bright colored embroidered blue vests used long poles to move us through the river.

The treat of our raft trip was being serenaded by Hank playing trumpet and John Gora playing accordion. Those tunes are still resonating through my brain. It was such a beautiful sunny day with the leaves just changing with the hint of fall color.

Hank Guzevich and John Gora entertained us as we floated down the Dunajec Rive in Ludzmierz Poland 10-6-09


After the raft trip and a leisurely lunch we headed toward Krakow. On the way we stopped at the church that houses Our Lady of Luzmierz, an important statue of the Virgin Mary and child. This is one of the churches that Pope John Paul II stopped at for services. There is an expansive park behind the church with the Stations of the Cross, many marble statues and an outdoor altar. It was truly beautiful. There is a naturally spring with water with healing powers. We all splashed a handful from the pump and drank a few sips.

Walking along the country road in this quiet neighborhood next to the church we came upon a cemetery. There was a young heifer and cow chained to the ground grazing in a field of grass. The farmer moves the chain from time to time as the grass is eaten. There are no fences in this area. Many of our group confused the cow for a bull s the cow had long black horns. Once she stood up we realized he was a she.

The cemetery stones are large with a granite rectangular shape in front of the stone filled with flowers such a marigolds. It was a very colorful site.

Dunajec River Rafting and Church grounds where Pope John Paul II visited. Church houses the famous figurine of Our Lady of Ludzmierz.



Here is the iteniary:
Morning departure from Zakopane .


11.00am. River rafting on the Dunajec River ( weather permitting ).

Stop for lunch ( not included ).

Continue to Krakow with stop to visit the Church housing the famous figurine of Our Lady of Ludźmierz.

Arrive Krakow and check in to the Novotel Centrum Hotel.
7.00pm . Dinner at “Mieszczanska” restaurant.

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